Al Dente

Seeing Red For Valentine's Day

OK, it doesn't have to be Feb. 14 for me to declare my love of the color red. It's bold and dramatic, the shade of my favorite sauce, cake and candy. Sure do adore those Red Hots!

And now, I can stock my kitchen with essentials that practically pulse. At the top of my Valentine's Day wish list is that gorgeous heart-shaped casserole from Le Creuset. Of course, I'd break it in by making something for my sweetheart. Maybe some red beans and rice.

Oh, that Cuisinart Ice Cream Maker is awfully cute, too. I found it among a flashy collection of red and pink small appliances that would make my BFF green with envy.

For the heck of it, let's throw in the towel, decorated with red poppies. And how about a pair of ruby red silicone egg poachers?

Yes, I'm being a little silly. Probably has something to do with the fiery sugar rush caused by one handful too many of those Red Hots. Still, isn't it great that the world has blossomed with cookware, gizmos and gadgets in so many vibrant colors?

-- Leslie Kelly 

Forecasting A Few Food Trends For 2012

While poring over a recent post on the James Beard Foundation Web site predicting which foods will be hot/hot/hot in the coming year, I couldn't help wondering what these pronouncements were based on. Was it a kind of chicken-or-the-egg scenerio?

Does a dish or a culinary technique become big because it's riding some imaginary wave of popularity? Or does the simple act of forecasting spark rising interest in authentic Thai food, smaller portion size and foods enriched with animal blood? (three of the trends coming in 2012, according to this report.) Who cares? It's good fun and I'm going to take a crack at calling a few, too. Most of mine are based on wishful thinking, but I did rightly predict last year that macarons would have their moment in the spotlight. 

1. Curative cocktails. With the shocking embrace of coconut water as the "it" beverage of 2011, I'm hoping to see bartenders take heed and go real retro with some of their concoctions. Because, if you know your liquid history, you'll know that the original drinks were meant to be tonics. I'm not imagining a wheatgrass and rye on the rocks, but something delicious that has some "healthy" ingredients to balance out the booze.

2. The rise of Southern-style layer cakes. While cupcakes and pies are still going strong, it seems only logical that restaurants pastry departments would want to give a fresh twist on the homey discs of cake spread with creamy frosting. Yes, Red Velvet's leading the charge, but here's hoping we'll also see more caramel and coconut layer cakes in the near future. Layer cakes shouldn't just be reserved for birthdays!

3. Better kid's meals at restaurants. Why must pint-sized diners be saddled with limited options like grilled cheese and plain pasta? I'm sure most picky kids don't want to stray from that time-honored formula, but these small customers deserve a little more respect and some cleverly cooked veggies.

Christmas Countdown: Great Gadgets For Stuffing Stockings

In my family, we all act like little kids when it comes to digging into our stockings Christmas morning. Maybe it's a silly tradition, but for me, good things truly do come in the smallest packages.

Every year, I get some culinary gizmo that I didn't know I needed until I got one. And now, I don't know how I got along without my OXO lemon zester, the Vinturi wine aerator or that nifty gnocchi paddle, which makes little ridges in my hand-rolled pasta pillows.

As my kiddo continues to build her kitchen arsenal, the stocking makes for a fine spot to add to her growing collection of tools. Even if none of these items are exactly on her official wish list.

Here are my picks for cool tools worthy of stocking stuffing: 

They're so cute in that ice blue hue, that set of Wilton spatulas which make folding effortless and bowl scrapping a breeze. 

Are you a pincher? I am and that's why I embrace my tongs. Yes, some chefs banish them from their haute kitchens -- The French Laundry's Thomas Keller is not a fan -- but I think tongs are a huge help.

What separates most home cooks from pros? This instant read thermometer. Takes the guesswork out of getting the right temps for foods, just like they do at restaurants.

Stay sharp with this good-looking gadget from knifemaking experts Zwilling J.A. Henckels.

This might be a stretch when it comes to stuffing it into a stocking, but here's an old-school, stovetop espresso maker just like they use in Italy. Who needs one of those super spendy one-shot machines when you've got a Bialetti?

Keep your wine fresh with Vacu-Vin. This set includes no-drip pour spouts, too.

I love cheese so I really love this cheese knife from Zyliss. 

For ice cream fans, there's nothing cooler than a scoop that gets that treat out of the carton and into the bowl with ease. Like this Norpro Nonstick "Antifreeze" model.

Good luck with your holiday shopping! Unlike most years when I already have gifts wrapped and under the tree, this time around, I haven't even started yet. 

-- Leslie Kelly

 

Which Spatula Would A 5-Star Restaurateur Use?

The Herbfarm restaurant is one of the Northwest's legends, a little place between the city and the country serving nine-course themed feasts that rely on super ingredients and superb technique. Its dinners were based on small producers and local/seasonal foods decades before anyone thought to talk about them that way. The wine cellar boasts 4,500 selections.

Then, there's the restaurant's co-owner, Ron Zimmerman. If you follow him on Twitter you know that his brain is always working around some interesting bit of knowledge or arcane piece of cookery. (Recent topics: How to roast squab. Douglas fir branches. The length of an elk's tongue.) And, out of the blue the other day, he linked to what he called the world's best spoon/spatula/scraper. It's a Rubbermaid model; heat-resistant and disherwasher-safe. Reviewers call it "particularly durable" and praise the flexibility and the design. (I liked that the head is fused to the handle, avoiding the gap allowing food to collect and decay on other models if you're not careful.) When I asked Ron about the tool's appeal, he replied on Twitter, "Scrapes better than a scraper. Scoops. Just perfect in every respect." And, currently, it's selling for $12.72, which strikes me as pretty good for a long-lasting, super-useful kitchen tool. Just goes to remind you that great doesn't always mean expensive. It's an ironic reminder from a restaurant that actually is expensive -- but is also great.  

-- Rebekah Denn

Luxury, Thy Name Is... Roasting Pan?

We finally did it this year. We bought a roasting pan. 

We've always resisted the purchase in the past, instead enjoying our tradition of borrowing a pan from our friends each Thanksgiving and sharing the feast. But this year we have an induction stove, and the pan our friends own wouldn't work with it. We looked at various options, from disposable to low-rent to high-end, and finally went for a heavy-duty, 5-ply Mauviel stainless steel model. 

It's gorgeous. 

In the days before Thanksgiving, we all kept admiring its sturdy beauty. "It'll last forever," my mom approved. When we put it to the test, indeed it turned out a lovely, evenly browned, perfectly moist bird. And the same family members and friends were there to enjoy it with us.

Most of my kitchen gear is utilitarian. But it's hard not to admire this one for its eye appeal and feel as well as its function. 

I used to think there was no point in buying a big roasting pan, given that we only need it once a year. But this one arrives with a happy coincidence -- the release of "All About Roasting," the new book by Molly Stevens (her classic "All About Braising" is on the favorites shelf of almost every serious cook I know). My copy is on the way (just check out this Brussels sprouts recipe), and I know already the beautiful pan will be in heavy rotation this year. 

Have you indulged in any kitchen luxuries? Do you have any regrets?

-- Rebekah Denn

The Best Coffee Maker (Is A New Coffee Maker?)

I resisted buying a new coffee pot for some time. Our old model had been a wedding gift from my cousin Joan (not really a cousin, but sandwiched in our family tree somewhere between my dad and grandmother's generation), and I still remember our joy at seeing it arrive via UPS. It was pre-programmable, so we could wake up to fresh coffee. We couldn't believe someone had bought us such a fancy model. And in the end, I hung on to it far past the point where it started leaking and developing functional quirks, because Joan had passed on, and I was sad to think of losing that last tangible connection to someone who had been so kind.

When it had brewed its last cup, though, we bought a new model. And once I got over the psychological hurdles, I was impressed by how many excellent options we had when it came to coffee makers. I'm not even talking the Chemex sort of route, we purchased a nice but basic Cuisinart model. It lets you pause midway through brewing to pour a cup, it keeps its quality even brewing small amounts, and -- best for us -- the coffee tastes fresh for hours. Thanks to the insulated stainless carafe, the coffee stays nicely hot, and it never gets the burnt taste that we took for granted with our old glass carafe. The cups I pour late in the afternoon taste as good as the first ones of the morning. And I find that I think of Joan fondly over coffee still, because old habits are harder to break than old appliances.

-- Rebekah Denn

Beautiful Wedding Brunch Inspires Party Planning

This weekend, I attended my very first morning wedding, a beautiful ceremony which was followed by a spectacular brunch buffet. The bride and groom love breakfast and the spread was lovely and mighty filling. The brunch included everything from bagels and lox to eggs benedict, made-to-order omelets and super yummy salads, home fries and much more. It was an elegant platform for morning comfort food.

I was tickled by the novelty of a wedding reception brunch and inspired to start looking on the 2012 calendar for some dates to throw a post-holiday casual celebration of breakfast fare. Maybe a DIY Grits Topping party? Or a biscuit bake-off? Even a straight-up pancake feed, where guests can pile on jams and syrups, maybe some whipped cream.

One piece of equipment lacking in my kitchen cupboard when it comes to hosting any kind of serve-yourself buffet-style feast is something to keep hot food warm. My favorite surrogate mother had a warming tray she would trot out every holiday season for the annual Tom and Jerry party. She made a mean artichoke and spinach dip and it stayed ooey-gooey for hours, thanks to that gadget.

I think it's time I go retro and get out-fitted with one of these before the entertaining season kicks into high gear. I like the looks of the Waring Pro. And the Cuisinart Warming Tray seems versatile, too.

Any advice?

-- Leslie Kelly 

Which Kitchen Tools Are So Nice You Should Buy Them Twice?

My mom comes out for Thanksgiving every year, and this year she arrived early to help us through some medical mishaps. Whenever the kitchen is so full of helping hands, I'm struck by how nice it is to have duplicates of a few key kitchen tools. Here are a few that have been unexpected boons in our home:

1. Vegetable peelers. A couple holidays ago, mom finally got frustrated with our junky peeler and came home with a sturdy, practical Oxo version. Lo and behold, my mother-in-law had the same idea, so now we have two. Like most Oxo products, the peelers do their job so well it's hard to imagine we ever used anything else. And we've found it surprisingly helpful at holiday times to have two peelers available, so that when we have a mountain of sweet potatoes or carrots, two can share the job.

2. Measuring cups and measuring spoons: When one set is in the dishwasher (or being used for cookies when someone else is baking bread), it's so convenient to have a clean set at the ready. 

3. The mighty Microplane: When I first got an "extra" Microplane as a gift, I intended to pass it on. I already knew it was an invaluable kitchen gadget, but it didn't strike me as one where we could use a spare. To my surprise, we've kept two Microplanes in action throughout many cooking marathons; e.g. using one to zest lemons while another goes for ginger or finely shredded cheese. 

Which of your kitchen tools are so nice you'd like to buy them twice?

-- Rebekah Denn

Bringing Casseroles: Use Disposable Containers or The Good Stuff?

Whenever friends have babies, we like to bring by dinner, remembering what a huge help it is at those times not to have to shop or cook. We tend to bring food in disposable containers, figuring that we're doing our friends a favor by not making them remember which dishes belongs to which households and think about returning them.

But we had an unexpected medical emergency in our house the other week, the sort where people bring by casseroles (and boy did we appreciate it, and are glad to be improving now). I was struck in the chaos how much it brought to the table to be eating lasagna out of the stunning Emile Henry pan that one friend dropped by. Sure, the main thing was that we were stressed and it was a treat not having to shop or cook ourselves. But it lifted our spirits in a way I didn't expect to see that elegant, stylish cookware on the table instead of the more practical disposables. It was like having something shout "Dinner party!" instead of "Disaster!"

So, what do we do now when we get to return the favor? What's the advantage of convenience over appearance, of dinner party over disposable?

-- Rebekah Denn

What's The Best Knife Set? A Surprise Answer

Knife block sets are certainly compact and complete. But are you better off buying one, or should you stick to a few basic kitchen knives? The meticulous testers at Cook's Illustrated took on that question in their latest issue, and here's what they found:

As you might expect, the super-cheap sets didn't produce great results. The testers faulted many of those knives as awkward, dull, or badly sized. But the most expensive sets also weren't flawless. Their top picks were the Wusthof classic 8-piece, the Victorinox 7-piece rosewood set, and the Shun classic 9-piece, yet even those classics had issues (for instance, a too-short bread knife in the Wusthof).

Their final analysis? Instead of going with what the manufacturers put together for you, make your own kit, mixing and matching the best bets from different brands. Start, they say, with a Bodum universal knife block. Instead of slots for specific blades, the Bodum will accommodate knives of any range of sizes and shapes. Then they recommend stocking the block with six essential tools that won their approval -- a Wusthof paring knife, an 8-inch Victorinox chef's knife, a 10-inch Wusthof bread knife, a 12-inch Victorinox slicing knife, a 6-inch Victorinox boning knife, and a pair of razor-sharp Shun kitchen shears. 

It' sounds like a wonderful kit to me. Maybe they can put it together and sell at as the "Cook's Illustrated Classic"?

-- Rebekah Denn