Al Dente

Getting Organized: Recipe File Redux

I do not make New Year's Resolutions. Because we all know those are so easy to break.

Still, I try to chip away at a few self improvement-type goals throughout the year and being more organized is always at the top of my list and my latest project is a real challenge. I'm trying to figure out a way to put all my assorted recipes right. Some of these missives pre-date the Internet, which means they're often hand-written. I miss that tradition, especially seeing the penmanship of the dearly departed. 

Years ago, I put together a collection of my grandmother's signature recipes, typing them out and copying them. I then gave the "self-published" cookbook away as a Christmas gift. But it lacked the personality of the imposing figure who stood 5-foot-tall and was known as Nana, a dynamo who wrote down instructions for cooking dishes on scraps of paper, bank deposit slips and the occasional notecard. I cherish those originals.

Likewise, glimpsing hand-written recipes from old friends and former neighbors (Nell's Wine Cake was always something to look forward to during the holidays) always makes me smile.

After working in a few professional kitchens in 2009, I was surprised to discover recipes stored in utilitarian three-ring binders, shoved into plastic sleeves to protect them from splatters and spills. That system isn't pretty, but it certainly is handy.

I started searching for something that offered a combination of sleeves I could stash old-school recipe cards as well as full sheets I might print out from various Web sites. It's a tall order. There are pretty albums that look more as if they belong on a book shelf in the living room. Recipe boxes are too old-fashioned. I've got a nifty vintage clip book with pockets and dividers, but it's so small. I could tuck them into an accordian file, but then they're out of sight and out of mind. What a pickle!

For now, the hunt goes on. Any suggestions?

-- Leslie Kelly

 

 

Christmas Countdown: Great Gadgets For Stuffing Stockings

In my family, we all act like little kids when it comes to digging into our stockings Christmas morning. Maybe it's a silly tradition, but for me, good things truly do come in the smallest packages.

Every year, I get some culinary gizmo that I didn't know I needed until I got one. And now, I don't know how I got along without my OXO lemon zester, the Vinturi wine aerator or that nifty gnocchi paddle, which makes little ridges in my hand-rolled pasta pillows.

As my kiddo continues to build her kitchen arsenal, the stocking makes for a fine spot to add to her growing collection of tools. Even if none of these items are exactly on her official wish list.

Here are my picks for cool tools worthy of stocking stuffing: 

They're so cute in that ice blue hue, that set of Wilton spatulas which make folding effortless and bowl scrapping a breeze. 

Are you a pincher? I am and that's why I embrace my tongs. Yes, some chefs banish them from their haute kitchens -- The French Laundry's Thomas Keller is not a fan -- but I think tongs are a huge help.

What separates most home cooks from pros? This instant read thermometer. Takes the guesswork out of getting the right temps for foods, just like they do at restaurants.

Stay sharp with this good-looking gadget from knifemaking experts Zwilling J.A. Henckels.

This might be a stretch when it comes to stuffing it into a stocking, but here's an old-school, stovetop espresso maker just like they use in Italy. Who needs one of those super spendy one-shot machines when you've got a Bialetti?

Keep your wine fresh with Vacu-Vin. This set includes no-drip pour spouts, too.

I love cheese so I really love this cheese knife from Zyliss. 

For ice cream fans, there's nothing cooler than a scoop that gets that treat out of the carton and into the bowl with ease. Like this Norpro Nonstick "Antifreeze" model.

Good luck with your holiday shopping! Unlike most years when I already have gifts wrapped and under the tree, this time around, I haven't even started yet. 

-- Leslie Kelly

 

Orange You Glad?

My daughter loves arts and crafts, so last weekend we made pomanders, (clove-studded fruit), together. I bought a bag of oranges and learned the German word for cloves (Nelken). I like to decorate my pomanders with classic designs while my daughter prefers more free-form decoration. What about you?

My preteen and I can often be found in the kitchen whipping up something to actually eat, like chocolate chip cookies or brown sugar shortbread. I'm not one to play with my food, but making pomanders allows you to do just that. Apart from stringing popcorn and cranberries, I'm not sure what other fun crafts are food-related. Suggestions?

I typically make my pomanders with oranges, though I've heard you can make them with all varieties of citrus. Have you used other fruits as well? We use a toothpick to make a design and then stick the cloves into our pattern. The task is easy and fun. The results are pretty and fragrant. And what a great way to keep kids of all ages busy over the holidays.

Do you play with your food too? Orange you glad that I asked?

--Tracy Schneider

Food Play

Mugging for the Holidays

I'm always on the lookout for cool, inexpensive gifts. Something I can give to the great secretaries at my daughter's school or the terrific servers at my favorite breakfast stop.

How about you? Is there someone you'd like to give a small but heartfelt thank you to? How about a little mugging for the holidays?

Fun and functional, this Fred & Friends stacked ceramic mug is sure to elicit a double-take or three. These three stacked coffee cups are actually a single 12-ounce mug, perfect for coffee, tea, hot chocolate--or why not some hot mulled wine?

Who and what are you shopping for this holiday season?

--Tracy Schneider

Playing Around With SousVide Supreme: The Last Supper

Boy, oh boy, I sure had a blast spending some quality time in the kitchen, testing the SousVide Supreme. Over the course of several weeks, I experimented with all sorts of stuff: fish, chicken, pork chops, potatoes, a fancy duck confit recipe from the publishing sensation of 2011, Modernist Cuisine. I soft boiled eggs (takes 45 minutes and makes for a yolk that's creamy good) and I even cooked dried beans in this water oven, which works on the principle of low and slow.

I'm not bragging, but everything... well, nearly everything... turned out beautifully. (The one bummer was a turkey breast that hadn't cooked long enough. Willing to take responsibility for operator error.)

If I had to pick one favorite meal, it would have to be the last supper. My sister was visiting from Los Angeles and I told her I wanted to make her the best steak she's ever tasted. Did I mention sissy's a vegetarian? Well, she has eaten a mostly meatless diet for more than 10 years, but she occasionally craves a big, thick bone-in ribeye. Go figure!

I had been blown away by the steaks cooked sous vide, seasoned and sealed in a vacuum packed bag and then cooked at 145 degrees for seven hours. The results were especially impressive with leaner cuts of meat, believe it or not. And grass-fed beef turned mighty tender cooked this way.

I'm not going to get into a big discussion about the pros and cons of eating meat. I will say that I try to eat local, sustainable meat as often as I possibly can. I shop at farmers markets and, also, ask for better quality meat at the supermarket, too. I'm willing to pay more because I eat less meat than I used to.

To fill out this special menu, I went in a very nostalgic direction and served baked potatoes with French onion sour cream and a Caesar salad. Just like when we were kids.

Dinner was so much fun, especially because our brother was able to come, too. The steak -- so juicy and tender, just like the first time I tried it cooked in the SousVide Supreme during that first demo back in September (featured in the photo) -- received rave reviews from my sibs. It was a grand way to finish these fun cooking experiments.

Now, there's an empty spot on the counter where that nifty appliance once sat. But it might not be empty for long. I've moved the SousVide Supreme to the top of my Amazon wish list. Are you listening Santa?

-- Leslie Kelly 

The Best Coffee Maker (Is A New Coffee Maker?)

I resisted buying a new coffee pot for some time. Our old model had been a wedding gift from my cousin Joan (not really a cousin, but sandwiched in our family tree somewhere between my dad and grandmother's generation), and I still remember our joy at seeing it arrive via UPS. It was pre-programmable, so we could wake up to fresh coffee. We couldn't believe someone had bought us such a fancy model. And in the end, I hung on to it far past the point where it started leaking and developing functional quirks, because Joan had passed on, and I was sad to think of losing that last tangible connection to someone who had been so kind.

When it had brewed its last cup, though, we bought a new model. And once I got over the psychological hurdles, I was impressed by how many excellent options we had when it came to coffee makers. I'm not even talking the Chemex sort of route, we purchased a nice but basic Cuisinart model. It lets you pause midway through brewing to pour a cup, it keeps its quality even brewing small amounts, and -- best for us -- the coffee tastes fresh for hours. Thanks to the insulated stainless carafe, the coffee stays nicely hot, and it never gets the burnt taste that we took for granted with our old glass carafe. The cups I pour late in the afternoon taste as good as the first ones of the morning. And I find that I think of Joan fondly over coffee still, because old habits are harder to break than old appliances.

-- Rebekah Denn

Beautiful Wedding Brunch Inspires Party Planning

This weekend, I attended my very first morning wedding, a beautiful ceremony which was followed by a spectacular brunch buffet. The bride and groom love breakfast and the spread was lovely and mighty filling. The brunch included everything from bagels and lox to eggs benedict, made-to-order omelets and super yummy salads, home fries and much more. It was an elegant platform for morning comfort food.

I was tickled by the novelty of a wedding reception brunch and inspired to start looking on the 2012 calendar for some dates to throw a post-holiday casual celebration of breakfast fare. Maybe a DIY Grits Topping party? Or a biscuit bake-off? Even a straight-up pancake feed, where guests can pile on jams and syrups, maybe some whipped cream.

One piece of equipment lacking in my kitchen cupboard when it comes to hosting any kind of serve-yourself buffet-style feast is something to keep hot food warm. My favorite surrogate mother had a warming tray she would trot out every holiday season for the annual Tom and Jerry party. She made a mean artichoke and spinach dip and it stayed ooey-gooey for hours, thanks to that gadget.

I think it's time I go retro and get out-fitted with one of these before the entertaining season kicks into high gear. I like the looks of the Waring Pro. And the Cuisinart Warming Tray seems versatile, too.

Any advice?

-- Leslie Kelly 

Which Kitchen Tools Are So Nice You Should Buy Them Twice?

My mom comes out for Thanksgiving every year, and this year she arrived early to help us through some medical mishaps. Whenever the kitchen is so full of helping hands, I'm struck by how nice it is to have duplicates of a few key kitchen tools. Here are a few that have been unexpected boons in our home:

1. Vegetable peelers. A couple holidays ago, mom finally got frustrated with our junky peeler and came home with a sturdy, practical Oxo version. Lo and behold, my mother-in-law had the same idea, so now we have two. Like most Oxo products, the peelers do their job so well it's hard to imagine we ever used anything else. And we've found it surprisingly helpful at holiday times to have two peelers available, so that when we have a mountain of sweet potatoes or carrots, two can share the job.

2. Measuring cups and measuring spoons: When one set is in the dishwasher (or being used for cookies when someone else is baking bread), it's so convenient to have a clean set at the ready. 

3. The mighty Microplane: When I first got an "extra" Microplane as a gift, I intended to pass it on. I already knew it was an invaluable kitchen gadget, but it didn't strike me as one where we could use a spare. To my surprise, we've kept two Microplanes in action throughout many cooking marathons; e.g. using one to zest lemons while another goes for ginger or finely shredded cheese. 

Which of your kitchen tools are so nice you'd like to buy them twice?

-- Rebekah Denn

Improving on Perfection: Momofuku's Shrimp And Grits Recipe Redux

How do you improve upon a perfect recipe?

This was my improbable mission this weekend, as I made one of my favorite dishes from the fantastic Momofuku cookbook. It's a shrimp and grits with an Asian twist, bacon dashi providing a savory note to the symphony of flavors. (Here's the recipe, courtesy of Martha Stewart!)

But first a word about my plan. For the past few weeks, I've been test-driving a SousVide Supreme, the water oven that cooks vacuum-sealed food slowly at low temperature, intensifying the flavors and making for some incredibly tender textures.

I wanted to find out whether cooking the shrimp in David Chang's fantastic recipe would make the shellfish buttery soft and it did. No more rubbery shrimp!

Shrimp and grits is a dish that's exploded onto the nation's culinary consciousness after decades of being fairly obscure staple of low country cooking. That term refers to the traditions of coastal South Carolina and Georgia, regions famous for seafood. 

The very first time I had the dish was at Momofuku Noodle Bar shortly after it opened in 2004 on Manhattan's Lower East Side. This lunch turned out to be one of those meals where my husband looked as if he wanted to change seats because I was making so much noise while eating, mmm-ing loudly because I just couldn't help myself. 

Since getting a copy of the highly entertaining cookbook two years ago, I've been slightly obsessed with trying to recreate that bowl full of pleasure at home. I've come close, but, you know: some dishes are just better when prepared by pros.

My latest effort, however, pushed the dish into a better place. First, I found some wild pink shrimp from Florida. (Frozen, but I prefer that to buying the frozen/thawed shrimp at the seafood counter.) Now, many folks I've talked to have the impression that sous vide cooking is fussy and time-consuming. But this shrimp was cooked in about 20 minutes, finished with a quick sear in my trusty cast iron skillet.

After the shrimp had cooked, I held them in the fridge, upped the temp on the SousVide Supreme and added some eggs in their shells. In less than an hour, dinner was on the table. The eggs poached that way have super creamy yolks, almost like custard.

As an unscripted final touch, I made a little red-eye gravy to top the dish, the most basic addition of strong black coffee to a pan coated in bacon drippings. I added a splash of stock I made with the shrimp shells and a bit of butter, too. This embellishment was inspired by a shrimp and grits preparation I recently loved at Big Bad Breakfast in Oxford, Miss. 

These steps made a great dish even better. Still not exactly as good as the shrimp and grits at Momofuku, but I'm going to keep trying.

-- Leslie Kelly

 

Secret Ingredient In This Butternut Squash Soup? Lots of Love

I don't feel good about admitting this, but for many years, I was collard green with envy when listening to my friends talk about spending time cooking with their kiddos. My daughter was born a picky eater and was completely indifferent to food, even sweets. She once turned down dessert, saying: "It's too rich!" She was 6.

Fortunately, she's come around. She loves lots of different things now -- though is still a holdout when it comes to tomatoes and salmon -- and just recently, she's started to cook. This is pretty thrilling, the opening of a new line of communication I never dreamed was possible.

And because we live in a plugged-in world, I've been sharing recipes she's requested in a Google document. It's easy for her to pull it up on her laptop while she's fooling around in her kitchen.

The latest request was for butternut squash soup, something our family cannot get enough of when the autumn leaves start to fall. I've tinkered with the recipe over the years, but think I have nailed it with the most recent version, which is finished with coconut milk instead of cream. The only hitch was my daughter's spartan kitchen doesn't have a food processor or a blender. So, I ordered her the next best thing, a Cuisinart immersion blender.

It makes a lot of sense if you hate to clean up as much as I do. One less vessel to wash if you blend the soup right in the pot. It's also great for making shakes and smoothies. I would love to run a contest and have cook's share their most obscure tales of working with a hand-held blender.

By the way, this recipe makes for a great first course on Thanksgiving.

Butternut squash soup

1 butternut squash

2 veggie bouillon cubes (look for brands that don't have hydrogenated oils; I like Rapunzel brand)

1 medium onion, chopped

4 cloves roasted garlic

1 can coconut milk

Curried almonds, optional (recipe follows)

Bake the butternut squash whole in a 325 degree oven for 45 to 60 minutes. It should be soft on the round end and firmer on the neck. Cool slightly and peel, scooping the seeds out and discarding. Caramelize the chopped onion in olive oil, season with sea salt and pepper. Add the flesh from the bottom half of the squash, the two bouillon cubes and just enough water to cover the squash, about 2 cups. Simmer for 10 minutes. In the meantime, cube the remaining squash and saute in about 2 tablespoons olive oil for five minutes. Season with salt and pepper and a little bit of red pepper flakes. 

Puree the butternut squash and onion mixture until smooth, either in a food processor or using an immersion blender. Return to the pot and add the coconut milk and sauteed butternut squash. Taste and season.

Serves 4.

Curried Almonds

2 cups sliced almonds

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 teaspoon sea salt

Saute the almonds in the olive oil over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the seasonings and stir, cooking over low heat for 5 minutes. Serve on top of butternut squash soup or toss in salads.

-- Leslie Kelly