Al Dente

Keep An Eye on The Dirty Dozen and The Clean 15

If you keep an eye on organic produce, you probably already know the "Dirty Dozen" -- the fruits and vegetables deemed highest in pesticides by the Environmental Working Group, based on USDA and FDA tests. There's also a flip-side list, "The Clean 15", those judged lowest in pesticides.

I came across the lists again when flipping through a new cookbook, "Vegan Family Meals," and thought they looked different than I remembered. Sure enough, looking online, the lists have changed even since the book's version. Broccoli, tomatoes, and papaya fell off the "Clean" list in the update last year, replaced by cantaloupe, grapefruit, and honeydew. I was disappointed to see broccoli's fall. I've relied on conventionally farmed broccoli as an inexpensive staple when others on the "Dirty" list are too pricey in organic form. I was also surprised to see that the lists were so changeable. I'd always assumed there weren't dramatic variations in the pesticides used on specific crops; that some plants were just by nature more prone to disease or rot or bugs (and therefore subjected to more chemicals).

Here's a pocket guide to both the latest Dirty Dozen and the Clean 15. More useful, I think, is this detailed data list, showing just how many pesticides were found on the 50 crops tested, and how clean that broccoli, for instance, might be compared with those further down the list.

How do you pick and choose when it comes to buying organics?

-- Rebekah Denn

Five Garden Tools You Didn't Know You Needed

It's spring! So, how does your edible garden grow? If you're just getting your gear together, here are a few tips on tools you might not have known you needed, courtesy of three exciting new books on our garden nightstand: "Your Farm In The City," by Lisa Taylor of Seattle Tilth; "The One-Block Feast" by Margo True and the staff of Sunset magazine, and "Apartment Gardening" by Amy Pennington (yes, the same Amy Pennington who rocked our kitchens last year with Urban Pantry). You'll want the trowel and garden gloves first, but after the bare essentials, consider these:

 1. Soil thermometer: Know how those seed packets tell you to plant when, say, the soil reaches 50 degrees? Here's how you can actually figure that out. Taylor, who advocates owning "a few high-quality tools," lists this as a handy extra.

2. Scissors: A "wonder tool" for the garden, says Taylor, snipping everything from lettuce leaves to twine. Go for a pair with short blades, and look for rustproof stainless steel.

3. Mason jars. Yes, you know you need them for canning. But the Sunset book recommends also using them to store your leftover seeds. Most packets supply more seeds than you can use in one year, and the book says they'll last at least another year if you store them airtight in a cool, dark place. Put them in the freezer if you've got room.

4. Bamboo: Pennington calls it the duct tape of gardening, full of uses. "Use single stakes to support heavy plants, assemble a trellis, or form a teepee by tying twine or wire at the top. You can also easily build a shade wall for blocking out the strong summer sun -- wrap floating row cover between two bamboo stakes and secure."

5. Electric drill: Sure, Pennington says, you can grow plants in plastic pots or salvaged vegetable crates or even a burlap bag of soil. But if you want to get fancier with your DIY, and you find yourself with a pretty glazed ceramic pot that has no drainage holes, all you need is the drill and a ceramic or masonry bit. Flip the pot over onto the lawn or a few layers of newspaper, she says. Cover the area where you will drill the holes with a crisscross of masking tape (it prevents splinters from flying up). Mark the holes on the tape. (The bigger the pot, the more holes you should have. She says 3-5 per pot is usually fine.) Using the drill fitted with the appropriate bit, drill your hole. "Try to work in one swift motion and drill straight down to minimize the chance of cracking the ceramic."

And, hmmm, since two of these listings mention twine, you may want to lay in a ball of that too.

What are some of your recommendations for unusual but handy garden tools?

-- Rebekah Denn

Inspiring Ways To Make A Clean Start

I've never been much for New Year's resolutions or diets or sweeping changes. What works for me instead are ways to improve my habits. I like to be inspired and taught, not browbeaten and shamed. And inspiration is what I got reading through "Clean Start" by Terry Walters. It's got basic, sensible advice on eating food that's better for both our bodies and our planet -- if you're a Michael Pollan fan you're already on board. The book is attractive and has a nice solid feel. But what really got me was my slow realization, after browsing through recipes like crunchy wasabi-spiked green beans and polenta pizzas, that the recipes are all (1) vegetarian (2) dairy-free (3) gluten-free (4) free of refined sugars. 

Whoa.

Frankly, although I own and love many vegetarian cookbooks, eat less meat than your average person, and enjoy many gluten-free and dairy-free recipes, I would have passed on a book that blared all those properties on the cover. The combined list wouldn't have sounded tempting. It would have sounded, to a person with no allergies or intolerances, like a lecture.

I'm not sure why this is true. "Good for you" shouldn't carry that whisper of suspicion with it. Regardless, I'd rather make recipes like Daikon Carrot Salad with Cilantro and Peanuts because they sound so good, not just because they're so good for me.

Got any insights? Ponder and share while brewing one of Walters' "Heart Warming Winter Drinks":

Green Tea With Lemongrass and Ginger

Ingredients:

2 stalks lemongrass (bottom 4 inches only)
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
4 cups water
4 green-tea teabags
1 tablespoon pomegranate juice

Directions:

1. Trim dry ends from lemongrass and discard. Peel outer leaves, and slice remaining stalks lengthwise into thin strips.

2. Place strips of lemongrass in pot, add ginger and water and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

3. Add teabags to mixture and steep 3-4 more minutes (longer steeping will yield a more bitter tea).

4. Remove tea bags, lemongrass and ginger and discard. Stir in pomegranate juice and serve.

Serves 4.

-- From "Clean Start" by Terry Walters

-- Photo credit: Gentl & Hyers

-- Rebekah Denn 

New Year's Resolutions

Happy 2011!

I made only one tiny New Year's resolution this year, one that I've already kept: Ordering seeds for our spring garden.

My seed catalog arrived in the mail yesterday, and it warmed my chilly day just mulling over different varieties of snap peas and sorrel, imagining the fragrances of anise hyssop and cinnamon basil. Last year I delayed my order until some of my first choices were sold out; today it felt good to cross it off my list even as the temperature fell below freezing.

Now that the order's placed, it occurs to me that my little New Year's pledge wasn't really so simple. I'm also resolving to prepare my soil in time to plant the seeds, to weed, to keep up with the young zucchinis before they turn into compost-bin boats, to pickle my cukes and any extra bounty of green beans, to freeze or can the extra fruits, to make pesto from the herbs before the plants bolt, and so forth. (Watering is one aspect I don't worry much about anymore; we've had great luck with a dripline watering system).

I do have some months of reprieve before the realities of gardening set in. But in the meantime I'm also still repeating the rewards of last year's work -- digging overwintered carrots, enjoying potatoes that were stored well after the fall harvest, snipping frost-sweetened collards and kale leaves from our raised beds. The work always pays off.

Here's to health and happiness and a bountiful harvest for all of us this year. Did you make any resolutions big or small?

-- Rebekah Denn

Are you hungry for some fall wild mushrooms? I am!

It's that time again when the air is crisp and cool. The ground is moist and the rains are coming… we hope! Why do I wish for rain every fall? Because no sooner do our Northwest grounds moisten up that the heavily sought after wild mushrooms start to pop up. Fall is fast approaching and that means it’s mushroom time! I love foraging for my own fall fungi -  Boletus edulis (king bolete, porcini, ceps, they have many names) Matsutake and Chanterelles!

I have been a huge mushroom foraging enthusiast for years now. In the 1980’s I met mycologist Patrice Benson when we took a Seattle Times reporter out to the mountains to do an article on foraging and eating wild mushrooms. Since then, we have been great friends and have been out foraging many times together. (Pictured to the right, tasty Matsutake mushrooms - nom nom nom!) Of course, I never know exactly where we are going because, like any good mushroom-hunter, Patrice will never tell me exactly where we are.  Lucky for her I’m so directionally challenged that I wouldn’t be able to find my way back if I tried! 

Nothing's better than the jolt of excitement that rushes through my body when I see it!  Its head poking out of a blanket of fuzzy moss. My first Chanterelle of the season!  I approach it slowly, open my pen knife and cut its stem, placing it reverently in my basket. I'm ecstatic with joy!  Then I eye another ... and another...and another. I pick the perky dry ones, leaving the older wet and wiggly ones. (Older wet mushrooms are usually hosts for crawly creatures – eek!)  My basket nicely full, I head back to whip up a mushroom feast with my day's finds (see below for a fabulous recipe for my Savory Chanterelle Bread Pudding).  

If you are new the mushroom “scene” in the Northwest, there are many opportunities to learn more about these fabulous fungi:

Lots of cooking at the PSMS wild mushroom exhibit! 

Puget Sound Mycological Society Presents
the 47th Annual Wild Mushroom Exhibit
October 16th-17th, 2010  

Stop by the Annual Wild Mushroom Show at the Center for Urban Horticulture at the University of Washington. The weekend is dedicated to all kinds of wild mushrooms, you can bring the ones you’ve found to have them identified. There are also several cooking demos and tastings, crafts for kids, art work for sale and much more! Click here for more information.

25th Annual Wild Mushroom Gathering
at Breitenbush Hot Springs
October 21-24, 2010

If you really want to get pickin’ get registered for the 
25th Annual Wild Mushroom Gathering, held at the fabulously rustic Breitenbush Hot Springs in Detroit, OR. Whether you are just getting started or an experienced mycologist, you’ll be sure to enjoy this conference - from the daily guided foraging outings (chanterelles, baby!), crafts such as dying fabric and fibers with natural mushroom dyes, interactive cooking classes to lectures by nationally acclaimed mycologist Tom Volk and other mycologists, identification sessions with professional mycologist Dr. Thom Odell  and more. It is an experience not to be missed, all in the beautiful and relaxing surroundings of the natural hot springs!
For more information,visit the conference website.

So if you're interested in foraging for your own this year, put on your boots and pack a compass, pen knife, basket and mushroom reference book. And take along an experienced mushroom picking friend or join the Puget Sound Mycological Society and link up with one of their field trips. Here are some tips I’ve learned in the past years in regards to wild mushroom foraging:

LEARNING TO HUNT
Before I go any further, however, I must warn you that, if you are not an experienced picker, then you need to join a mushroom interest group or find an experienced picker to go with. They can help you identify the mushrooms you come across - there are many poisonous mushrooms out there!  Be absolutely sure of what you pick!  I suggest you join one of the local mycological societies.

Membership pluses are: 

• Field trips to fruiting areas
• Members are very generous about teaching the habitat and getting people started; as you learn the habitat, then you can find your own secret spots.
• Members will also get you on the right track for the do’s and don’ts of mushrooming
• Opportunities to learn about all mushrooms and learn about identification at one of several identification classes offered to members throughout the year.
• Contact the Puget Sound Mycological Society: (206) 522-6031 or visit their website or search for a local club in your area.

PICKING PROTOCOL
Good mushrooming protocol is cutting your mushrooms with a knife at ground level rather than pulling them up. This way you are not disturbing the mushroom-producing organism, called the mycelium. (A great way to think about it is this: A mushroom is to the mycelium as an apple is to the tree.) By cutting your mushrooms you are also doing it the clean way, leaving dirt and sandy bottoms in the ground. (Keep in mind that if you are picking a mushroom with an expert to identify it, you WOULD pull the whole mushroom from the ground to make it easier to identify it) Also, bear in mind that mushrooms need to release spores to keep the species alive, so leave a couple in the ground. Place your prizes in a basket or bucket, never a plastic bag! They sweat and suffocate in plastic since they are 90-95% water.

DO NOT EAT MUSHROOMS RAW
It’s always best to cook any type of mushroom thoroughly because:

• it enhances their flavor
• drives off some harmful substances found in edible mushrooms
• destroys bacteria which may be present on raw mushrooms
• However, cooking does NOT make POISONOUS mushrooms edible

TRAILHEAD SNACK
Take along a big ol’ cast iron skillet, wine, a baguette, a camp stove and a few sautéing goodies like a little olive oil or butter, some garlic, a lemon, a few fresh herbs—such as chives, 
thyme, and, yes, for this occasion—heavy cream and some white wine. (You will probably have already burned off the calories!). Sauté mushrooms till tender and soft, then reduce with the cream 'til thick and luscious. Top thin, crusty slices of hearty bread and you’ll have the outdoor “snack” of your life.

Patrice Benson with a bounty of mushrooms!

So this fall, with the chanterelles you come across, whether it is in the woods or in the supermarkets, I hope you’ll try my Savory Chanterelle Bread Pudding that first appeared in my James Beard nominated Kathy Casey’s Northwest Table.

Savory Chanterelle Bread Pudding
Makes 6 to 8 servings1 tablespoon olive oil or butter

2 cups cleaned and sliced chanterelles (about 10 ounces)
1/2 cup diced onion
1/3 cup diced celery
1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic
4 cups 1-inch-cubed firm, rustic French- or Italian-style bread
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh sage
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme or lemon thyme
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1 1/2 cups half-and-half
1 1/2 cups milk
2 eggs
2 egg yolks

Preheat an oven to 325°F. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the chanterelles and onion for 3 to 4 minutes, or until three-quarters done. Add the celery and sauté for about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes more. Add the garlic and sauté for 30 seconds more, taking care not to burn the garlic. Remove from the heat.

Combine the bread cubes, herbs, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Mix in the cooked mushroom mixture and set aside.

Butter a 6-cup glass or ceramic baking dish or spray with vegetable-oil cooking spray.
Whisk the half-and-half, milk, eggs, and egg yolks in a medium bowl. Pour the egg mixture into the bread mixture and mix gently and thoroughly. Transfer the mixture to the baking dish and level out the surface, lightly pressing the bread down into the dish.

Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, or until the custard is just set in the center. Do not overbake or the custard will scramble.

Chef’s Note: It is important to use a rustic-style bread for this recipe—not airy bread

© Recipe from Kathy Casey’s Northwest Table, Chronicle Books

Farmers Market Discoveries: Yokatta-Na and Maruba Santoh

The weekly trip to my local Farmers Market is always an adventure. Rarely do I come home without something new or unusual to me, whether it's a particular variety of strawberry or a the latest flavor of honey. Yesterday I picked up some greens I had never eaten before, Yokatta-Na and Maruba Santoh, from Whistling Train Farm. 

Maruba Santoh, I learned, is a loose-leaf, Chinese cabbage that is terrific both in salads and stir-fried. Yokatta-Na is a perfectly delicious leafy green that's great eaten raw. My, how far we've come from bok choy and tatsoi!

With greens this fresh and distinctive, there's no need to dress them in more than just a little olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. They really are that flavorful!

How about you? What new and unusual greens are you finding at your Farmers Market these days? Or are you growing your own? And how are you preparing your leafy greens? Salads? Soups? Stir-fries?

--Tracy Schneider

 

Climbing the Walls: Mario Batali's Edible Vertical Garden

A few years ago the urban garden moved from the ground floor to the rooftop, and now it's climbing the walls. Just a few days ago Mario Batali unveiled the edible, vertical garden he commissioned for his Los Angeles restaurant, Pizzeria Mozza.

Covering more than 72 square feet of outside wall and filled with more than 20 types of herbs, it will serve more as art than garden for the busy pizzeria. In fact, Batali acknowledged that there was no way such a small space could furnish even a fraction the greens needed for his wildly popular restaurant. But, I wonder, how about an urban family of two, four or six?

I think the vertical garden is a game changer. Some say it's simply a passing fad. What do you think? I want one filled with herbs and petite edible flowers. How about you?

--Tracy Schneider

Mission: Sustainable

Trying to eat "right" gets more complicated all the time. Instead of just thinking about price and convenience and health when I shop, I'm balancing those basics with worries about mercury and pesticides, animal cruelty and bisphenol-A, and other potential problems on a list that never seems to end. (Moldy tomato paste? What?!) 

I've developed personal rules over the years for what to buy and what to avoid, and I shift gears as new information comes along... but sometimes I would sure love an expert to push my shopping cart and help me do right by the world as well as myself. Someone who's educated on the issues, someone who's smart and funny and full of heart, and a fine chef, and...wait! She's here!

Well, not here. She's on the pilot of Mission: Sustainable, a reality show hoping to become the "Queer Eye For The Straight Guy" of sustainable living. Chef Becky Selengut stars in the food segment, giving the chosen family a kitchen "makeover" to help achieve a greener and healthier life. (Other parts of the show deal with other areas of the family's home and habits). Becky, who is writing a book on sustainable seafood, rummages through the family's fridge and shelves and finds plenty to warn them about. There's high-fructose corn syrup, which she tells them is the "canary in the coal mine" that indicates they're eating highly processed foods. The sweetener is even part of their breakfast sausage, along with MSG and preservatives and commodity pork. She unearths transfats and suspect cake mixes, imported farmed shrimp that she warns are often raised in gross conditions -- but when she comes back to discuss her findings, the shrimp are gone. They had been eaten in the interim. Oops.

Well, never mind. "For everything I've mentioned here, there's a good alternative," she tells the family, and takes them shopping to prove just that. 

At one of Seattle's top fish shops, she tips a whole sardine toward her mouth, shows the group a farmed fish they can eat with a clear conscience (Arctic char), and finally takes them home to whip up a fine dinner of Louisiana prawns and grits. Oh, and she bestows them with a gift bag of quality substitutes for their pantry no-nos.

Part of the fun of watching the show come together in Seattle was seeing the rather sustainable way it was put together itself. It was filmed on a budget of less than $1,000 -- that's not even a shoestring, it's an aglet. Participants all donated their time. They put together a big-league "green carpet" premiere through donations big and small. The premiere sold out, all 1,000 seats. (Did I mention the creator is only 23?) 

Their goal now is to get the show picked up by a cable network. Intrigued? The pilot is now online here. Jealous? Nominate yourself for a makeover of your own!

-- Rebekah Denn

A Touch of (Eco-Friendly) Glass

A neat gift idea for Mother's Day, and an all-around good gift for yourself or anyone else, are the lovely glass vases from Espana. Made in Spain from 100% post-consumer recycled glass, the vases are big, bold, and just beautiful to behold. Be advised--these vases are pretty generous in size (the striped vase I've got is 16.5 by 13 inches) and definitely make a statement. Snap one up (they're about 50% off right now) for a gift that looks good and you can feel good about.

--AndreaLeigh