Al Dente

Maira Kalman Does Food

I'm a huge fan of Maira Kalman, an inimitable artist whose illustrations have appeared on the cover of the New Yorker and have been featured as a series in the New York Times.

Her children's books are some of my daughter's favorites. Sayonara Mrs. Kackleman. Next Stop Grand Central. Ooh-la-la (Max in Love). We love them all. And that is why I can't wait to get my hands on the newly illustrated Food Rules: An Eater's Manuel. Newly illustrated, that is, by Kalman.

If you're a fan of food, you are no doubt aware of Michael Pollan, and his best-selling books, among them The Botany of Desire: A Plants-Eye View of the World and The Omnivore's Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals. Food Rules is his latest.

I've seen some of the drawings from Food Rules in reviews and this video that shows Kalman discussing her work. It's more than enough to make me want to read through, slowly and carefully, every page of Kalman. 

How about you?

--Tracy Schneider

Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium: You Shoulda Been There!

No matter how many glowing adjectives conjured to describe the stirring presentations on topics such as the history of radishes on the Gulf Coast, pimentos – the vegetable, not the cheese – and the resurgence of olive oil below the Mason-Dixon line, the annual Southern Foodways Alliance symposium is one of those you-had-to-be-there experiences.

And, lucky me, I was there. I’ve been going to this congenial congregation of more than 300 food writers, chefs, academics and enthusiasts of all things edible since 2004. Every year, I come away from the weekend stuffed full of speakers, memorable feasts and great conversations feeling well-fed in every way.

The Southern Foodways Alliance, part of the Center for Southern Studies at University of Mississippi, is a mighty force dedicated to documenting and preserving the traditions of a region rich in culinary traditions. The SFA also celebrates the new wave of uber-talented chefs who are putting their own twist on the classics.

Take the Kentucky bento box we enjoyed for lunch the first day of the symposium, a gorgeous mosaic of Southern favorites that took a delicious detour to include global flavors: pulled pork paired with kimchi, boiled peanuts and edamame, delicate chevre goat cheese prepared by Edward Lee from 610 Magnolia in Louisville, Kentucky.

In this food-obsessed crowd, it’s common to hear folks chewing over the minutiae of every meal, speculating on ingredients and preparations, swapping recipes. Old friends reconnect and new friendships form. Bonds forged over thrillingly delicious food prove strong indeed.

Here were a few highlights from this three-day event:

Oysters for breakfast! Yes, these slippery, succulent treats from Shooting Point Oyster Company near Chesapeake Bay in Virginia proved a fitting opening salvo for this year's topic, which was The Cultivated South.

Beautiful poetry beautifully read by poets Kevin Young and Michael McFee.

A moving opera written by 20-year-old Ole Miss student Price Walden. Leaves of Greens -- a Southern oratorio in three parts -- was billed as a "Collard Green Opera". While that sounds pretty whimsical, it was incredibly powerful when performed by talented group of college-age singers.

Lectures on radishes, pimentos and the story of one man's quest to save mirlitons in New Orleans were anything but dry and academic. These presentations helped illuminate what makes the South so rich when it comes to mining culinary history. It might seem hard to believe, but even a reading from a farm bulletin from the 1950s was fascinating.

Then, there was that sneaky strong punch served out of a vintage bathtub on Saturday night. This tasty treat was sipped while we listened to a primer on punch by noted boozehound, David Wondrich.

The day before, we were treated to shots. Golden shots of olive oil! The first olive oil produced south of the Mason-Dixon line since Thomas Jefferson tried growing trees way back when. Red hot Charleston chef Sean Brock gave a lively, informative talk about his quest to revive "TJ's" mission, part of his effort to serve local foods at Husk. 

Each and every meal was a grand slam, cooked for us by chefs whose names you should know if you don't already: Valerie Erwin, Billy Allin, Chris Hastings, Drew Robinson, Mike Lata, Alon Shaya, Alexandra Guarnaschelli and Tyler Brown, as well as hard-working host chef, John Currence and his tireless crew. Saturday night's feast was cooked al fresco on ginourmous Lodge Cast Iron skillets.

As always, I hate for this weekend to end, but knowing I'll be back gives me the strength to say so long, my suitcase bulging with tasty reminders of the South. This time, I packed up some country ham ("the South's prosciutto," my friend quipped), a big bag of grits and a Billy Reid-designed T-shirt that reads: Make Cornbread, Not War. 

-- Leslie Kelly

 

 

 

Get Bitter!

From their long and storied history as snake oils and
medical panacea to their modern-day indispensability  behind the bar of any good cocktail program, bitters have been there through the cocktail’s rise in popularity, fall during Prohibition and re-emergence as a key part of today’s thoughtfully-crafted cocktail. Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All by accomplished author Brad Thomas Parsons ushers the reader through the ups and downs of this flavorful favorite. This ultimate guide to the emerging, versatile world of bitters as a cocktail staple is sure to be an enduring resource for bartenders for years to come.

In writing this book, Parsons admittedly became a bit obsessed with bitters, and it’s easy to see why; while they have boomed in the cocktail industry, the relatively simple process of making them and the lure of the variety with which they can be found makes this an accessible and alluring subject to geek out about. He has captured not only the myths and mystery behind bitters, but a seriously well-rounded collection of both classic and ‘new age’ cocktails like The Autumn Sweater, a fab fall warm-me-up, and the Gargoyle & Spire, a champagne cocktail that pairs bitters with herbaceous gin and Strega.

Of course, with something as versatile as bitters, Parsons couldn’t leave out food; Chinese-style Takeout Ribs with Lacquered Bitters Glaze, Aromatic Bitters Ice Cream and tons of other mouthwatering treats let the serious bitterphile go beyond the bar and into the kitchen.

Bitters hits the shelves November 1st, 2011 and is available for pre-order on Amazon.com now. Grab this book immediately - no cocktail aficionado should be without it!

--Kathy Casey

Keren Brown Makes Seattle Dining Easy!

Do you find yourself wondering “Where should I eat?” often? You’re not alone. Finding your way around a city’s food scene, even if you live there, can sometimes be a daunting task. One which Seattle’s foodie maven Keren Brown is making a whole lot easier for the Emerald City’s denizens and visitors alike with her new book, Food Lover’s Guide to Seattle.

Keren knows a lot about her city’s culinary prowess; she writes a wildly popular blog, FranticFoodie.com, and founded Seattle Food Blogger Events and Foodportunity, a citywide series of food-related networking and educational events. She also writes for SeattlePI.com and MyNorthwest.com - it’s safe to say she’s uber-qualified to guide us through some of Seattle best places to eat, drink, shop and celebrate all things food.

Food Lover’s Guide to Seattle explores the city’s specialty shops, markets, restaurants, food trucks and events as well as shares recipes from some of Seattle’s most beloved chefs like Ethan Stowell, Tom Douglas and Maria Hines. Organized loosely by regions -North, South, Central, Downtown and West Seattle- and then further detailed with sections like ‘Made Here’, ‘Specialty Stores and Markets’, ‘Food Lover’s Faves’ and ‘Landmark Eateries’, this book is pretty much THE exhaustive list of fab places to eat.

And Brow  n doesn’t just go for the big-name places; she shines the spotlight on some tucked-away neighborhood secrets, too! Celebrated restaurants like Canlis, Spur and Volterra reside on the page right alongside hidden gems like Kusina Filipina on Beacon Hill and Eastlake favorite Nettletown. All in all, Food Lover’s Guide does great justice to a city that takes such immense pride in its culinary diversity!

Keren is one of Seattle’s most passionate voices for Seattle’s food scene and I’m honored to have Dish D’Lish at the airport mentioned and a contribution in the Recipes section included in this fantastic guide! Of course, my recipe had to be a cocktail, so check out my Citrus 75, made with fresh mandarins, House-made Limoncello and our very own Liquid Kitchen 5130 Honey!

Let’s raise a glass (or a fork!) to Keren Brown and her wonderful new “must have” book, Food Lover’s Guide to Seattle! –Kathy

Citrus 75
As featured in Food Lover’s Guide to Seattle. This recipe is great with the addition of fresh rosemary  muddled with the clementine! Substitute a few fresh berries for the Clementine in the summer. You can also see a video of this drink on my show Kathy Casey’s Liquid Kitchen.

Makes 1 drink

1/2 or 1/4 Clementine or mandarin, depending upon size
1 1/2 oz local gin
1/2 oz Housemade Limoncello (recipe follows)
3/4 oz lemon juice
1/2 oz Liquid Kitchen 5130 Honey Syrup (recipe follows)
1 oz brut champagne

Garnish: lemon zest twist or thin slice of Clementine

Place the Clementine into a mixing glass. Muddle to release the juices. Measure in the gin, limoncello, lemon juice and honey syrup. Fill with ice. Cap and shake vigorously.

Strain into a martini glass. Add a splash of champagne. Garnish with a lemon zest twist or a thin slice of Clementine.

To make Liquid Kitchen™ Honey Syrup: Measure 1 part HOT water and 1 part Liquid Kitchen™ 5130 honey into a container. Stir until honey is completely dissolved. Store refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.

 

Housemade Limoncello
Makes about 2 1/2 cups 

1 1/2 cups citrus vodka
3 lemons
3/4 cups sugar
1/2 cup water

With a potato peeler, peel the zest from the lemon, being sure not to get any white pith. Place the lemon peel in a clean 4-cup glass jar with lid. (Use the rest of the lemon for another purpose.) Add the citrus vodka.

Cap the jars and shake well. Let sit at room temperature for 1 week, shaking the jars every couple of days.

After 1 week, bring the sugar and water to a boil in a large saucepan, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil for 2 minutes, then let cool to room temperature.

Strain the vodka into a big bowl. Stir the cooled sugar syrup into the strained liquor. At this point, you can bottle your Limoncello into fancy bottles or clean clear wine bottles. Cap tightly and store, at room temperature, for up to 2 months or, refrigerated, for 1 year.

Copyright © 2010 Kathy Casey Food Studios® - Liquid Kitchen™

The Best Food Magazine You've Never Read

Rhubarb bitters. Limoncello. Maple syrup. Coffee milk. Maraschino liqueur. Pimm's cup. Vintage cocktails. Chocolate stout ice cream puffs. The most fun you'll find in food and drink is all in Imbibe magazine this month--and in every issue I pick up. Have you paged through Imbibe?

This Portland-based magazine is celebrating its 5-year anniversary, and it continues to offer top-notch writing on all manner of beverages, from cocktails to wine to coffee, water, and milk. Certainly the world of "liquid culture" didn't begin five years ago. After all, Starbucks has been around for 40 years.

When Imbibe's first issue debuted five years ago, there was already a lot of excitement brewing about well-crafted drinks. We had it good, with all the great spirits, wines, beers, coffees and teas that were available. But if 2006 was a good time to be a drinks enthusiast, then the scene today is off the charts--every premium beverage category has exploded with delicious developments.

If you'd like to revisit the last five years of drinking or explore the next, then pick up a copy of Imbibe.

--Tracy Schneider

Beef Is Better With Biggles

I ate possibly the worst grilled beef brochettes ever today. There was no smoky char. The meat was tough, dry and tasteless. And it had me thinking of Tara Austen Weaver's autobiographical journey into the world of meat, The Butcher and the Vegetarian.

Though it reads like a novel, The Butcher and the Vegetarian is actually the true story of Weaver's long, slow descent into the everyday world of the carnivore, a place of fascination and disgust, far removed from her vegetarian upbringing.

Following doctor's orders to eat more protein, Weaver takes on this "prescription" like a research project, visiting ranches and slaughterhouses, getting to know the butchers who sell meat and the cooks who prepare it, like Biggles, the the man who created the food blog, Meathenge.  

"Try the roast." He urges me toward the large piece of meat I selected at the butcher counter. The garlic has practically melted into the meat as it cooked slowly off to the side of the grill. As Biggles slices it, I see that it's pink on the inside, slightly marbled but with a fine grain. I taste a slice. It is smooth and full of the flavor of beef. The garlic and rosemary remain in the background, a mere canvas for the meat. 

Just reading about Weaver's afternoon with Biggles, drinking beer at noon and grilling no less than six different types and cuts of meat--bacon, chicken, porchetta, lamb steaks, skirt steaks and the beef roast--all cooked to a turn, left my mouth watering. Weaver, that day, was smitten too. I know if she had tasted my beef brochette today, she never would have gone on to write her book. Thank you, Biggles!

The Butcher and the Vegetarian, Tara Austen Weaver, Rodale, 2010

--Tracy Schneider

More Than A Ground-Breaking Chef, Grant Achatz Is Also Great Story-Teller

Ho-hum. Yawn. Another chef bio.

That's what I thought before I cracked open Life, On the Line by molecular gastronomy genius Grant Achatz, who runs one Alinea in Chicago, one of the top restaurants in the country. The subtitle of the book is "A Chef's Story of Chasing Greatness, Facing Death and Redefining the Way We Eat," which is a heckuva mouthful. 

Much attention surrounding the release of this book has focused on chef Grant's brave fight against cancer that knocked out his sense of taste for a while. He faced losing his tongue and sought alternative treatment and has a happy ending to share with the world on the pages of this book.

But, for me, the most engaging part of the tale is in the beginning. Here's a shocker: One of the country's most ambitious chefs started his cooking career cracking eggs in the family diner. I had no idea. I absolutely loved how he made these images of those early days come alive. I could practically hear the bacon sizzling. 

I recently had the opportunity to interview the famous chef and my first question had nothing to do with the kitchen.

Whatever happened to your GTO?

He laughed. "My father still has it," he said. "I haven't seen it in years."

Achatz and his father rebuilt the car while he was in high school in a small town in Michigan, a painstaking process he evokes later when he's cleaning tripe at The French Laundry. It's cool when a writer has the ability to weave past and present, to make the pieces of a life fit together like a puzzle.

That's what I enjoyed most about this book. Not just the behind-the-scenes stuff about what it's like to open a restaurant and wait anxiously for a review to make or break the place or how special it is to work for an amazing mentor like Thomas Keller, but Charlie Trotter? Eh, not so much. Achatz, who wrote Life, On the Line with his business partner and friend Nick Kokonas tells all, in the kitchen and beyond. Or, at least that's how it seems to the reader. And that kind of honest, soul-baring story-telling is what makes this book so compelling.

I asked Grant if his family had eaten at his nearly-impossible-to-get-a-table Alinea and he said: "Of course." But when I pressed him about his godfather, his Uncle Norm, he told a funny story: "The first time Uncle Norm came into the restaurant, I went over to his table and asked how he was enjoying his meal. He's got a big, booming voice and he said something like 'It's not too bad.' Everyone in the dining room stopped talking and looked at him."

There was a section early on, where he decides he's going to show off for his girlfriend's parents and cook them dinner. Instead, he nearly slices off a finger. A situation many can relate to, I'm sure. During our interview, I asked Grant what kitchen tools could help improve the skills of a home cook. Not surprisingly, he said investing in at least one really good knife and a sharpener to help the knife keep its edge. Thanks for the tip chef!

Please note: Grant Achtaz and Nick Kokonas will be talking about the book from 7 to 9 p.m. March 16 at Tom Douglas' Palace Ballroom. A portion of the proceeds from this Cooks and Books event, organized by Kim Ricketts Book Events, will benefit the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society.

-- Leslie Kelly

My Romp in Seattle with Award-Winning Chef Tom Douglas

Just the other day I had lunch with James Beard Award-winning chef Tom Douglas, and if you're in Seattle, you can too. 

The fact is, I spent the better part of the morning with Douglas, (in spirit, if not in body), thanks to the brand new Kindle guides, Chef's Walks. Chef's Walks Seattle is the first in a series of city tours, guided by a renown, local chef, and the guides are certain to become a must-have resource for anyone who likes to eat.  

I don't know about you, but whenever I leave for other parts, I always canvass my foodie friends for the best restaurants, gourmet shops, farmers markets and cookware stores in and around my destination. I've never had an in-the-know chef to call on, until now.

Douglas maps out walks through five of his favorite neighborhoods, and I chose to walk with him through Seattle's International District (I.D.), an area of town where he tells us he spends more time eating than anywhere else in Seattle.

Just south of downtown and easy to get to on foot or by bus, this neighborhood is a warren of small restaurants, bakeries, and grocery stores. It's easy to get lost in the sights and smells of Asian food, but it's even more fun with a guide who can fill you in on which spots you don't want to miss.

Living in Seattle, I've spent countless hours wandering the I.D., but with so many eateries, I've never come close to sampling them all, not even half. This walk would be an opportunity for me to experience some new sights and tastes. 

Douglas begins the tour at his all-time favorite Vietnamese pho shop in Seattle, Pho Bac, a hole-in-the-wall eatery that you'd surely pass by if you didn't have this insider tip. He then makes his way through his favorite hangouts for noodles, dim sum, duck, pork, seafood and hotpot, stopping at more than ten Vietnamese, Japanese and Chinese spots. If you're like I am, and prefer to choose a restaurant from a whole host of options, then this is the list for you. 

On my tour, I "lunched" with Douglas at Harbor Village, his choice for dim sum. The place was packed, (always a good sign,) but I was seated after only a short wait and offered a superb array of dim sum options, including lo bac oh (turnip cakes) and har gao (shrimp balls) which I tried on Douglas' recommendation.

And that's just one of the details I like about Chef's Walk Seattle. It's not just a list of restaurants, but most entries include personal suggestions, like the best dishes to try. "On a hot day, order the chilled noodles with peanut sauce and boiled chicken," says Douglas, as he enthuses over Szechuan Noodle Bowl. You can't get more specific advice than that. 

Over the course of the guide, Douglas will also tell you where to get great picnic fixings, point you to local, one-of-a-kind shops, book stores and galleries, and share his list of the ten best, well-priced Washington wines. He even offers up five signature recipes, a souvenir of sorts, courtesy of Chef Tom Douglas.  

What's missing? Well, my favorite spots. And Seattle foodies will no doubt be the first to weigh in on what should be have been included in--or left from--this guide to good eating in Seattle. But I reminded myself, frequently, on my romp through the International District, it wasn't my walk.

"Chefs are generally up to speed on the newest joints and the best of the cheapest joints, and are appreciative of the classic joints," says Douglas. "I'm going to guide you around my city, Seattle, sharing my favorite places to grab a bite, sip a glass of wine, browse through books, or pick out some kitchenware." I'm so glad I went along for the ride, er, walk. 

So what's next in this series of Chef's Walks? Your guess is as good as mine. What city or chef would you like to see featured? Let me know, and I'll pass your suggestions along.

--Tracy Schneider

The Best Cookbook of 2010? Make Your Voice Heard!

I'm on a tear, reading the cookbooks, food memoirs and other food-related tomes that have been piling up the last several months on top of the piano bench in my living room. If those dozen or so books weren't enough to keep me busy, Food 52 has unveiled its list of this year's most intriguing reads--its Sweet Sixteen--for their Second Annual Tournament of Cookbooks. Join the fun!

Last fall I rooted for Canal House Cooking, and though it was eliminated in the third (of five) rounds, it was resurrected in the fourth, the Wildcard Round, where two deserving books are brought back into the game. Last year the folks behind Food 52 got to choose which two books deserved a second chance. This year, you get to weigh in.

Leave your choice for the best cookbook on the Food 52 site, here, and they'll use the two with the most votes in this year's Wildcard Round. But do it soon. Voting ends Wednesday, September 29th! (Then let us know your choice to win the Piglet Trophy in the Tournament of Books!)

Plenty by Yotam Ottolenghi and Jonathan Lovekin
Harvest to Heat by Darryl Estrine and Kelly Kochendorfer
The Vegetarian Option by Simon Hopkinson
The Art of Eating In by Cathy Erway
A Cook's Journey to Japan by Sarah Marx Feldner
Thai Street Food by David Thompson
Around My French Table by Dorie Greenspan
Forgotten Skills of Cooking by Darina Allen
The Frankies Spuntino Kitchen Companion & Cooking Manual by Frank Falcinello, Frank Castronovo and Peter Meehan
Urban Pantry by Amy Pennington
Cook Italy by Katie Caldesi
Heart of the Artichoke and Other Kitchen Journeys by David Tanis
The Perfect Finish by Bill Yosses and Melissa Clark
Cakewalk: A Memoir by Kate Moses
My Sweet Mexico by Fany Gerson
Good to the Grain by Kim Boyce with Amy Scattergood

--Tracy Schneider

 

Culinary Name Dropping

Phew. I've had a whirlwind month. It started out in a slow-paced fashion on the beach in Capri, but by the fourth week I found myself amidst a cyclone of activity (making cupcakes with toddlers to be specific). In between I managed to scarf down some cacio e pepe in Rome, pop into Eataly in New York, graze at Fette Sau's picnic tables in Williamsburg, and inhale a Pat LaFrieda burger at La Guardia airport all before I landed in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia for the Symposium for Professional Food Writers at the Greenbrier.

Now, it was my first time there, and I can't say that I wasn't just a smidge intimidated by the luminaries in the room. Truth be told both the panelists and the attendees were quite an accomplished bunch from all corners of the food world: Dorothy Kalins and Christopher Hirsheimer (the founders of Saveur magazine), Huffington Post columnist Elissa Altman, Laurie Buckle, Editor-in-Chief of Fine Cooking, cookbook writer and photographer James Peterson, Washington Post food editor Joe Yonan, and author Molly Wizenberg, just to name a handful. I'm not sure how I managed to sneak in!

In one of the closing discussions the panel weighed in on what they've been reading lately. I thought it would be a fun list to share with y'all.

What Food Writers are Reading:

Molly Wizenberg: The New Yorker, Out Stealing Horses
Joe Yonan: Morning Miracle
Laurie Buckle: American Terroir
Rick Rodgers: Medium Raw
James Peterson: Auberge of the Flowering Hearth, Proust
Kirsty Melville: Ender's Game
Rux Martin: Molly Wizenberg
Elissa Altman: Crossing to Safety, A Book of Mediterranean Food, Around My French Table
David Joachim: Stieg Larsson

What are you food-obsessed people reading as of late? I myself just finshed Medium Raw, A Homemade Life, and am wrapping up A Day in the Life of Ancient Rome.

--StellaCadente*

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