Al Dente

Trying To Convert a Grits Hater With Recipe from Big Bad Breakfast

I'm a big fan of grits. But I hardly ever get to make them at home because my husband is confirmed hash browns kind of guy.

Still, that hasn't stopped me from trying to convert him to the savory mush. Which I recently learned differs from polenta by the size of the grain. Maybe this is obvious, but grits are a finer grind than polenta. Another no-brainer worth restating: No, grits are not Cream of Wheat.

Actually, this Southern staple's star is rising as shrimp and grits starts showing up on menus around the country. A most welcome development.

But back to breakfast. While on a recent trip to Oxford, Miss., I tasted a grits dish that I was sure would win over my corn-tankerous soul mate. It was a golden wedge of goodness known as a grit cake, featured on the menu at Big Bad Breakfast, owned by James Beard Foundation award-winning chef John Currence.

The first morning I tried them -- with an order of tomato gravy, andouille sausage and herb biscuit -- it turned out to be the debut of this dish. They're made with grits that are prepared, poured into a pan, chilled, cut and deep-fried.

As soon as I returned from my trip, I started experimenting. I made the grits according to the directions on the Albers Quick Grits package. (Yes, I wish I could buy Anson Mills grits or Delta Grind grits in Seattle, but I have yet to find them anywhere. Not yet.) To the prepared grits, I added half a pint of cream, 2 cups of shredded pepperjack cheese and six dashes of Tabasco sauce to the six-serving portion. This worked as a dual purpose dish, as I took a little more than half of it to a potluck (where it was well-received as cheese-y grits) and poured the rest in a 8-inch square pan.

Those leftovers were later cut into triangles -- though mine didn't look anywhere near as pretty as those I was trying to emulate at Big Bad Breakfast -- and pan-fried. I just used a little canola oil spray in my cast iron skillet.

And you know what? Mr. No Grits changed his tune. He's a grits believer! Now, if I could only turn him around on polenta.

-- Leslie Kelly

Happy 20th Birthday Dahlia Lounge!

Two decades is an eternity in the life span of a restaurant. It's a tough business, run on slim profit margins and huge overhead, so it's not surprising when restaurants come and go.

What's remarkable is when a place can not only survive, but stay fresh and thrive. And that's what has happened at Dahlia Lounge in Seattle.

The beloved baby of Tom Douglas and Jackie Cross wasn't always the smash hit it is today. In the beginning, there were some scary moments. Fortunately for appreciative diners, business took off and a delicious empire was launched. Tom and Jackie's family now spans six restaurants, a pastry kitchen and bread bakery and a seriously slammed catering operation, employing nearly 400 extremely talented men and women. (I got a close-up view of the action while working in the incredible kitchens last spring.)

There was a birthday bash last night to celebrate this milestone, with Kusshi oysters and King crab (served by sous chef Dezi Bonow, in the photo), roasted duck tucked into squishy buns and the signature coconut pie. Chinook Winery, the go-to Washington state producer from the get-go, debuted a special Dahlia Lounge anniversary blend. Friends and family and loyal customers toasted to the continued success of this great restaurant. I'll drink to that!

--Leslie Kelly

Singing the Praises of Heavenly Deviled Eggs

It was only after I moved to the South that I became a deviled egg convert. Now, I worship those stuffed orbs of yolky goodness.

As much as I admire this retro-cool finger food, I'm still a neophyte when it comes to making them. Why, for instance, is it so tough to peel a hard-boiled egg? And, no, I have not tried that method where you tap both ends and blow it out. I think that's a big yolk. I mean joke.

Once I get those shells off, it's a lot of fun to play around with different fillings. I've been inspired by Debbie Moose's book. She stuffs them with beef, chicken, hot peppers, lox and tuna. She's even got a section on dessert eggs. Deviled Food Eggs is a darned clever name, don't you think?

Of all my deviled egg experiments, my proudest moment came after I reorganized my fridge and found a tiny jar of kimchi butter, which I bought the last time I was in New York City at Momofuku Milk Bar.

I pressed the yolks through a fine mesh strainer and mixed in a bit of the spicy butter. Then, I added just a bit of mayo and a healthy squirt of Sriracha hot chili sauce. After I filled the whites, I topped the deviled eggs off with a little bit more. 

Crazy About Delancey's Clam Pie!

I finally tried the hot/hot/hottest spot for pizza in Seattle and Delancey lived up to the high praise heaped on it by critics, food bloggers and pizza geeks.

On a weeknight, the tiny dining room was packed before 6, so my friend, Adam Kuban, (the head cheese at Slice on Serious Eats) and I took a stool at the counter, overlooking Brandon Pettit's domaine, the walk-in closet-size space where dough is stretched and topped and slid into the wood-fired oven.

The menu is fairly short, but my eyes shot straight to the clam pie, a take on the pizza made famous at an icon called Pepe's in New Haven, Conn. Lore has it that Frank Pepe invented this unusual pie because he was allergic to tomatoes and cheese.

Though Brandon traveled extensively in anticipation of opening his place, he said he had never tried New Haven's signature pie.

Delancey's version starts with the exceptional crust, a dough that's chewy and has the deeply-satisfying character of a rustic bread. The flavors develop over a long period of proofing. Housemade creme fraiche is slathered on the dough, then garlic slices and petite Manila clams. So simple and so darned delicious. Close-your-eyes-and-moan delcious. It even held up surprisingly well the next morning. Yes, I warmed it up on my pizza stone for breakfast.

Another fantastic place, Serious Pie, pioneered Northwest shellfish pie. The clam pizza at Serious Pie goes the surf and turf route, adding house-cured pancetta as a partner for those bivavles.

Move over prosciutto! Clams have just risen to my No. 1 pizza topping. What toppings do you like on your pizza pie?

--Leslie Kelly

Southern Foodways Alliance Syposium Was A Smash Hit

I am so absolutely stuffed after soaking up three days of amazing food and fellowship at the Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium in Oxford, Miss. The theme this year was music and it was enlightening and entertaining to hear food imagery pop up in everything from ragtime to hip hop.

I've been going to this magical weekend for five years and it just keeps getting better. I'm not just talking about the incredible meals cooked by famous chefs (Susan Spicer from Bayona in New Orleans, Momofuku's David Chang pictured plating a lunch and Oxford's hometown hero John Currence, winner of this year's James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef in the Southeast were featured, just to name a few). What I adore about this epic event are the surprises and the joy of learning something new. Who knew Jelly Roll doubled for a roll in the hay in many blues songs from way back when?

One of the most riveting speakers was seasoned Nashville singer/songwriter Marshall Chapman who talked about the challenges of finding good food on the road. She's probably logged more miles in more than 30 years of touring than most musicians, much of it in a cramped van, where band members took turns sleeping on a pad laid out across a couple of amps.

I loved her eloquent telling of how she finally declared she would only play in places where there was a good chance of finding tasty local fare. That boiled down to Texas, Louisiana, most anywhere along the Gulf Coast and New York. She conjured a beautiful scene of looking for a post-show snack in a New York snowstorm when the band stumbled into a homey Italian place, the city still under a blanket of white.

Lucky for the 300-plus food writers, scholars, cooks and food enthusiasts who gathered for the Symposium, Marshall said she was moved to perform a song for us after eating a spectacular meal at Big Bad Breakfast, bringing down the house with "I Love Everybody, I Love Everything."

That sentiment kept rolling around in my head throughout the weekend. And I left Oxford, feeling full and a little bit blue, but already thinking about next year. Y'all should come!

Stay tuned for more SFA Symposium dish from Brad Thomas Parsons, who I had the pleasure of hanging with down South.

--Leslie Kelly

Seattle Chefs Baaa-d To The Bone At Inaugural Lamb Jam

Pho-braised lamb shank fresh rolls from Monsoon East. Anderson Valley lamb shoulder tagine from Lola. Osso bucco-style leg of lamb from Andaluca. Lamb-stuffed pot stickers from Ponti Seafood Grill. ART's BLT with lamb bacon.

Those were just a few of the knockout dishes featured at Lamb Jam Sunday at Bell Harbor Conference Center on Elliott Bay. The capacity crowd enjoyed the creative lamb-centric dishes paired with wines from some of the top producers in Washington state.

Lucky me. I got to help judge the eclectic lineup of dishes, 17 in all, each paired with a wine. The panel of half a dozen fellow food writers/food lovers were served four flights that consisted of bite-size portions, divvied up into categories: shoulder, loin, shank and leg of lamb.

The group tasted, sipped and wrote notes furiously as plates were cleared and more were delivered. Scores were compiled based on presentation, creativity and taste. It was a very tough call, but the winners were Monsoon East for most creative and best shank. Lola scored best shoulder honors while best wine pairing was the Northstar merlot with Nell's braised shoulder and hummus. Barking Frog's lamb-tastic loin cooked sous vide and served with the spectacular DeLille Syrah was the best in show. 

What was so striking was the versatility of the star ingredient. Never would have guessed lamb shank would have worked so well wrapped in a fresh roll. And there was a surprise in that Monsoon gem, too. A gelee made from the pho broth.

The same could be said for the wines served alongside the lamb. Washington wines were perfect accompaniments to the intensely flavored meat and assertive seasonings. Especially enjoyed the Col Solare, the J. Bookwalter 2006 Foreshadow Cabernet and the 2006 Rediviva from Buty.

Sure would be great to see more events like this, showcasing one wonderful ingredient. How about an artisan cheese jam next? Or a wild salmon jam next spring?

--Leslie Kelly

Researching Seattle Street Food Scene For Truck Food Nation Book Tasty Work

My friend Angie Mosier just spent a week in Portland and Seattle photographing the growing number of street food vendors for a book by John T. Edge. Truck Food Nation, a look at the phenomenon that's got the momentum of a souped-up GTO, is due out next fall. In the meantime, the author and photographer have been criss-crossing the country doing research from Madison, Wis., to Tuscon, Ariz., New York City to L.A., home of the superstar truck, Kogi BBQ.

I was absolutely tickled to tag along with Angie as she sampled and shot bites from Marination Mobile, Minimus Maximus, Kaosami Thai, Parfait Ice Cream and El Camion, considered by some as serving the best Mexican food in the city, period.

As we rumbled down the road, we found a gem I hadn't tried, thanks to a heads-up on Twitter.

Paladar Cubano -- on the southwest corner of 90th and Aurora Avenue -- has the kind of Cuban comfort food you're most likely to find in Miami. Or Havana.

The first sign that this truck was the real deal was the mamey shake on the menu. Mamey is a tropical fruit sometimes described as a cross between a sweet potato and a mango. That makes for a gorgeous shake, the color of autumn leaves.It was mighty fine with a side of fried tostones -- mashed and breaded plantains -- and a true Cuban sandwich: thin-sliced roast pork, ham, pickles and Swiss cheese, toasted on special bread that looks like a smooshed burger bun.

While music blasted from the trucks' boom box on a blustery day, Angie and I mmm-ed over our order, especially the tostones, pictured here. What fun research, huh?

A semi-random aside: Angie also worked on a new PBS show starring chef Eric Ripert. "Avec Eric" debuted this summer, but I was bummed to learn the Seattle PBS station is not yet running it. I'm going to be a squeaky wheel and write an e-mail to the powers at KCTS and ask them to get Eric on the air. Care to join me?

--Leslie Kelly

Space Needle's SkyCity Is Toast Of the Town When It Comes To Wine

When the Washington Wine Commission named the revolving eatery atop the city's best known landmark its restaurant of the year, skeptics scoffed. Everybody knows only tourists dine at that dated venue, more than a few said.

I bet those people haven't been there in years. Until this week, I hadn't either. But a lovely lunch at SkyCity convinced me this iconic spot deserves a fresh look-see.

Now, I might be a teeny bit biased. I am absolutely crazy about The Space Needle. I wrote a story earlier this year about its many charms for the now-defunct print edition of The Seattle Post-Intelligencer. I'm a proud annual pass holder, going up often, sometimes just for a few minutes, to take in the magnificent skyline and spectacular mountains.

Still, I didn't let my expectations get too high about the restaurant. Until I started looking over the menu, that is.

Like many restaurants in the city, SkyCity has a renewed focus on using local/sustainable ingredients. They only serve wild salmon. I loved the hazelnut oil on the table to dip warm rolls in, as well as two types of butter. One was made with Alaskan sea salt, the other with a little bit of lavender.

The SkyCity restaurant has installed a state-of-the-art water filtering system, so no more waste from bottles. Bravo!

But what really piqued my interest was the wine suggestions that accompanied each entree, selections almost exclusively Northwest wines, including the most respected producers in the region. Those pairings are a collaboration between sommelier Mido Benjdya and chef Jeff Maxfield.

There was a thought-provoking column by Eric Asimov in The New York Times this week about the disparity between restaurants touting local menus and then serving European wines. I am impressed the wine list at SkyCity really reflects its commitment to local products.

After careful consideration, it came down to a choice between the fried oyster sandwich with Lone Canary Sauvignon Blanc and the halibut and chips with the Poet's Leap Riesling. So, I asked for suggestions from the server and he didn't hesitate. Fish and fries for me!

And I was so happy he set me sailing in that direction. I loved the off-dry wine, the fruit nicely balanced with the crisp snap of acidity that makes Rieslings from this state so special. (I later learned this is one of the projects of Long Shadows Winery, a German-inspired Riesling made by the renowned vintner from Schlossgut Diel.) Even before knowing the fascinating back story, I was wowed by how well it went with the meal.

The tempura battered halibut was the best fried fish I've had in a long time. I usually stay away from fish 'n' chips because the dish tends to be greasy. But this generous portion was golden and light. I enjoyed the Napa and savoy cabbage slaw on the side, too. The only change I would make would be to swap out the non-descript fries for some hand-cut Washington state potatoes. Then, the dish would truly soar.

You know what? I think those tourists might really be onto something. I'm going back to SkyCity for seconds and soon.

-- Leslie Kelly

Coffee Revolution Takes A Tasty New Turn

It's widely recognized that Seattle is where the espresso scene took off in this country. A little something started by a company you may have heard of... Starbucks.

Well, millions of lattes later, a few new coffee houses seem to be heading in a new direction, offering a different kind of buzz. Lately, some bean counters have been doing double duty as wine bars.

Take Fonte Cafe and Wine Bar, for instance. This sleek space (pictured here) opened this summer across from the Seattle Art Museum, offering a selection of brews, a wine list selected by an in-house sommelier and a menu created by Crush chef Jason Wilson.

What makes Fonte such a kick is the friendly staff, who speak knowledgeably about the coffee, the wine and the food. Want pairing suggestions? No problem. Want advice about which type of bean to try in a pot of French press? They can help.

Citizen is another cool venue successfully transitioning from coffee house to wine bar as day turns to night. Located at the bottom of Queen Anne Hill, not far from Seattle Center, this cozy place features sweet and savory crepes. Which match up well with coffee or wine.

For further proof this trend is taking off, consider this: Even Starbucks is testing the concept. Last summer, it launched a non-branded coffee house on Capitol Hill that serves wine by the glass and offers live music some evenings. If the 15th Avenue Coffee and Tea continues to be a draw, don't be surprised to see more of similar spots sprouting in neighborhoods across the country.

-- Leslie Kelly

Ladies Who Lunch

A new Neiman Marcus opened a stone's throw from Seattle, in Bellevue, a few weeks ago, and I have been looking forward to taking my daughter to the store's restaurant, Mariposa, even before it opened.

I love going out to lunch with my ten-year-old, but I was particularly excited about this lunch. Not simply because it was a special time to spend together, but because it was also chance for me to go back in time.

Back in time to the Bird Cage, Lord & Taylor's in-store restaurant that my mother and I would visit for lunch in the '60s when my family was on vacation in New York City.

I don't remember there being tables at the Bird Cage, rather ingenious chairs that your lunch tray would be hooked onto once you sat down. The room was always packed, typically with women, rarely a man. Sometimes, models wandered the floor, holding little signs that described the outfits they were wearing. Looking up, there were dozens of bird cages hanging down from the ceiling.

I don't remember what we ate at the Bird Cage, but it could easily have been the meal I always order at Mariposa, the lunch plate that comes with chicken salad, fruit salad, a small muffin and the restaurant's Mandarin Orange Souffle, aka jello.

For Neiman Marcus, that souffle is "the number one 'ladies lunch' item throughout the country". For me it's a way to travel back in time.

Mandarin Orange Souffle

Ingredients:
1-1/4 cups orange juice (preferably from concentrate, thawed and diluted)
1 tablespoon (1 envelope) unflavored gelatin
1 cup sugar
2 large egg yolks
1-1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup canned mandarin orange sections (4-ounce can)

Directions:
1. Pour 1/4 cup of the orange juice into a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over, and stir to dissolve. Seat aside to let the gelatin soften. Prepare and ice bath in a large bowl.

2. Pour the remaining orange juice into a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan and stir in the sugar and egg yolks. Over medium heat, gradually bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring constantly until the mixture begins to steam and is slightly thickened. do not allow the mixture to boil. Add the softened gelatin mixture (which will have a rubbery texture) and the lemon juice. Stir until incorporated and then transfer the "custard" to a clean mixing bowl; sit the bowl in the ice bath to cool. While the custard is cooking, stir it occasionally.

3. Using a wire whisk or an electric whisk, whip the heavy cream until soft peaks form. With a spatula, gently fold some of the whipped cream into the cooled custard mixture to "loosen" it, then add the rest of the cream mixture and fold in until fully incorporated.

4. Place three or four of the mandarin orange sections in the bottom of six individual 5-ounce fluted plastic dessert molds and then fill the molds with the orange souffle mixture. Place the molds on a cookie sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Transfer to the refrigerator and chill for at least 4 hours, and preferably overnight, until firm. Carefully unmold.

Serves 6.

Neiman Marcus Cookbook, Kevin Garvin, Clarkson Potter, 2003

--Tracy Schneider