Al Dente

Baconopolis: The Squeakquel!

Oink, oink!

I made like a little piggy of myself at the latest installment of Baconopolis, a celebration of swine produced by Tom Douglas and his uber-talented crew. This version featured dishes from Ari Weinzweig's Guide to Better Bacon, which isn't so much a cookbook as a collection of stories of pork bellies, hush puppies, rock 'n' roll music and bacon fat mayonnaise. (The book's subtitle.)

Ari's the co-founding partner of Zingerman's, a deli-turned-delicious-empire in Ann Arbor, Michigan. He's in Seattle for the American Cheese Society's annual conference, so his buddy Tom threw a bacon-y shindig and invited anybody who's into the hottest ingredient around. (It's the third Baconopolis in two years.)

The Palace Ballroom was slightly smoky as bacon sizzled at various stations around the room. Bacon fans snarfed up pimento cheese on bacon, potato salad with bacon, "mac-and-greeze" and biscuits topped with whipped lardo. While people munched on grilled bacon-wrapped bananas and devils on horseback (bacon-wrapped oysters), Ari got the crowd fired up, talking about the history of pork in this country. (Spanish explorer Hernando DeSoto brought pigs with him in the 1500s as he explored the Mississippi River.) He also touched on chocolate gravy made with pan drippings and the different cuts of bacon throughout the world.

Then, there was a raffle for baconcentric prizes including a bacon lunch box, a bacon board game and a bacon wallet. Hot dog!

I got a big kick out of watching a cook working a wood-fired grill, tending the banana-bacon skewers. It inspired me to make my neighbors jealous the next time I fire up the grill by throwing some bacon over the charcoal. Wonder how I can do that without having it flame out? Get it real hot and keep it high above the coals?

All those bacon-y bites made me mighty thirsty. I sipped an Amstel Light. You know, to balance out all those calories I was savoring.

-- Leslie Kelly

A Toast To Sweet Tea And The Waning Days Of Summer

It's hard to believe August is nearly over. In many parts of the country, school has already started. The leaves are turning in the mountains near my home. Days are shorter.

Yet, I'm still sipping my favorite summer refresher, sweet tea with extra lemon. I got hooked on the stuff while living down South in Memphis, Tenn., where the amber liquid flows as freely as espresso shots in Seattle. Funny thing is, as well as the Northwest knows its coffee, it don't know iced tea. At least in restaurants. Every time I've ever ordered it, it's weak and insipid or bitter and cloudy from being over-steeped. Come on people! We're not talking about brain surgery.

I would steer the clueless to a recipe from Martha Foose's James Beard-award-winning Screen Doors and Sweet Tea. The secret is cold brewing. It makes for an intense flavor without the bitterness associated with leaving the bags in the scalding water too long. I like to keep a jar of simple syrup in the fridge, sometimes tossing in a handful of fresh mint. (Which makes for some mighty fine mint juleps, too.)

If you happen to be near Nashville this weekend, be sure and check out the very first Sweet Tea Festival in Franklin. I can almost hear the ice cubes making beautiful music as they bump up against the tall glasses.

Sweet Tea

From Screen Doors and Sweet Tea

4 pitcher-size cold-brew tea bags or 6 tablespoons orange pekoe leaves in a diffuser

3/4 cup sugar

2 lemons, sliced

ice cubes

fresh mint sprigs, optional

Place the tea in a pitcher and add three quarts cold water; steep for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine 1 cup water with the sugar. Boil, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved. Remove the tea. Add the sugar mixture and stir. Serve over ice with lemon and fresh mint, if desired.

-- Leslie Kelly

The Best Cocktails and Food I Never Had

I’m guessing this has happened to everyone (except those lucky few who somehow manage to have extra hours in the day to fit in every possible option. I dislike those people). You see a special cocktail or food event, or menu that’s one night only, or even pass a restaurant that looks scrumptious on vacation, but you just don’t have the time to take advantage of it, no matter how super-fabulous it is in your mind. And then you think about it, or hear about it, and wish you could go back in time and re-organize your schedule.

Recently, this happened to me and I’m still dwelling on it. See, here in Seattle, two of the top chefs in the city, Brian McCracken and Dana Tough (co-owners of both Spur and Tavern Law, a couple of Seattle’s must-visit cocktail and food spots by-the-way) combined with a number of top bartenders, all under the banner of one of my all-time nostalgia inducing favorite bourbons, Maker’s Mark, to put out an exclusive evening of unbelievable food and cocktails. On August 11th. And I had to miss it. And (to make me even sadder and my mouth water even more) I have the menu and some pics. So, I’m making you share in my sadness (unless you were there. In which case, go reminisce giddily and leave us to pout). Here was the lineup:

Course One
Bartender: Anu Apte of Rob Roy
Drink:  M3
1-1/2 ounce Maker’s Mark
1 ounce Fino Sherry
Just over 1/4 ounce maple syrup
Dash grapefruit bitters
Food:  Foie Gras Torchon:
wild pear, molasses, sherry

Course Two
Bartender: Nathan Weber of Tavern Law
Drink: French Prince of Bourbon
1-1/2 ounce Maker’s Mark
3/4 ounce grapefruit juice
1/2 ounce Dolin Blanc vermouth
1/2 ounce rosemary syrup
2 dashes Jerry Thomas bitters
Dash old time aromatic bitters
Food: Sockeye salmon:
fennel, onion, purslane.
 
 Course Three
Bartender: Benjamin Perri of Zig Zag
Drink: A Lick and a Promise
1-1/2 ounce Maker’s Mark
1/2 ounce Cynar
1/4 ounce Tuaca
1/4 ounce Cherry Heering
Dash mole bitters
Lemon twist, for garnish
Food:  Sous Vide Pork Belly:
sunchoke, bing cherry.
 
 Course Four
Bartender: Craig Schoen of Spur
Drink: The Long Hand of Sadness
1-1/4 ounce makers
1/4 ounce Lovage gomme
1/4 ounce Averna amaro
2 dashes aromatic bitters
White pepper/brown sugar rim
Food: Waygu Beef Brisket:
coffee, corn, arugula.
 
 Course Five
Bartender: Marley Tomic-Beard of Spur
Drink: The Pine Box
1-1/2 ounce makers
1 ounce smoked pineapple juice
3/4 ounce ver jus
1/4 ounce Campari
1/4 ounce Luxardo marascino
Grilled pineapple, for garnish
Food: Amaretto Sponge Cake:
smoked almond, pineapple, yogurt.

Now if that line-up doesn’t have you glassy-eyed with culinary and cocktail desire, maybe you don’t have taste buds? If you’ve missed a dinner that rivals this one, well, then I pity you. And hope you feel the same for me after missing the above amazing evening.

--A.J. Rathbun

Photos Copyright 2010, Chad Pryor

Top 5 Things to Eat at Disneyland

Summer to most Orange County natives, like me, signifies frequent trips to the beach, bonfires, body surfing, and yes, at least one trip to the Magic Kingdom. In fact, I've spent literally hundreds of days there: I earned my first bona fide paycheck waiting on tables and hawking ice cream and hot dogs on Disneyland's Main Street.

By now you know my favorite extracurricular activity is eating, so it's no surprise that I see  a trip to Disneyland as a perfect vehicle for...eating. Thankfully, since my younger years, Disney has upped the ante on their culinary fare making it enticing and enjoyable for more refined palettes, but some of the old classics are still my favorite:

Top 5 Things to Eat at Disneyland

5. Frozen Lemonade (Vendor carts around the park.)

The sweltering temperatures in summertime Anaheim make a frozen lemonade a must on my list. This slushie is a perfect refresher while you are dodging the crowds on the way to Splash Mountain.

4. Turkey Legs (Edelweiss Snacks in Fantasyland or vendor carts around the park.)

Because there is no better way to get in touch with your inner Barbarian than gnawing on a gigantic turkey leg.

3. Monte Cristo Sandwich (Cafe Orleans or Blue Bayou in New Orleans Square.)

Take an ordinary ham and cheese sandwich, batter and deep-fry it, sprinkle with powdered sugar and dip in berry jam. This is a true heart-attack-inducing masterpiece.

1. (Tie) Churros (Vendor carts around the park.)

If you've been following my adventures, you know of my love affair with this tube of fried dough. Disney's version is no exception. As soon as I see the churro cart, my heart starts to beat faster. 

1. (Tie) Beignets (Cafe Orleans)

These pillows of fried dough, doused in powdered sugar, are not to be missed. Accompany with a cup of hot chocolate and a fireworks show, and you will feel warm and fuzzy for hours. 

What's your favorite thing to eat at Disneyland?

Photo credit: Roger Colton

--StellaCadente*

Follow me on Twitter @pomodorista

Sunday Morning Dilemma: Grits or Hash Browns?

I love getting up early on Sunday. It's quiet. There's nothing to interrupt coffee and The New York Times. I have plenty of time to contemplate what's for breakfast. Today, I thought about chucking the ritual and heading out to my favorite greasy spoon for some chicken fried steak and eggs. But that would require getting dressed, wouldn't it? A successful Sunday means hanging out in my robe until at least noon.

But, man, I was suddenly craving those golden hash browns that come alongside the dredged and fried hunk of steak. Only problem, no cooked spuds. The best fried taters are made with potatoes that had been cooked and thoroughly cooled. That's my experience anyway.

So, I rummaged around in the cupboard and found a box of Albers Quick Cooking Grits. Hmmm. That's a good start, but what would satisfy my itch for something crispy? Yes, of course, the answer was obvious and moments later, bacon was sizzling in my Lodge skillet. As it perfumed the kitchen with its salty/savory scent, I spied a couple of Walla Walla Sweets in my "fruit basket" and decided to embellish my bacon with some onion jam.

After the bacon was crispy, I wiped out most of the grease and loaded the skillet with thick-sliced onion rings. To speed up the cooking process a bit, I placed a small lid on top, pressing the onions into the heat. Lickety split, I had gorgeous caramelized onions. I finished this condiment with a sprinkle of Secret Stash's Chorizo Salt. Brilliant!

One final touch before plating: I folded in some shredded Irish cheddar to the grits and splashed some hot sauce on the side. As I savored this satisfying dish, I didn't miss those hash browns one single bit.

-- Leslie Kelly

To Sauce Or Not To Sauce: The Great Grilling Question

I was so thrilled to get a call the other day from the son of a dear friend. He wanted my advice on how to cook ribs. He's never eaten my barbecue, but he figures I might know a thing or three after living in Memphis, Tenn., for a few years.

There were some delicious lessons learned down South, especially when I took a seminar in judging competition Q. You know how people describe the ultimate rib as a falling-off-the-bone tender experience? That's not what you're going for during competition. The best barbecue ribs need a little tug, the meat has a firm (not chewy) texture.

The thing I find lacking in many rib preparations I've tried in restaurants outside the South is that the kitchen doesn't trim up the rib. The flap of flesh remains intact, so it adds to the cooking time, but not the overall enjoyment because that piece of meat is generally chewy. 

Depending on who's cooking, the ribs are mopped with a vinegar-y sauce throughout the low-and-slow process or they're basted in sauce at the end so they develop a nice char. I like 'em both ways, though usually prefer the sauce on the side. I love them cooked off the fire, but finished with a little sear.

Those were the instructions I gave to the aspiring pitmaster. I heard back from him a couple of days later and he said the ribs were great. Score!

So how do you roll with your rack of ribs? Sauce or no sauce while cooking? The ribs in the photo, by the way, were sauced and served at one of my favorite neighborhood restaurants in Seattle. Those Kansas City-style ribs are a summer feature at Crow.

-- Leslie Kelly

Good Food. Great Atmosphere!

You've no doubt heard the old joke about restaurants on Mars: good food; no atmosphere. Where do you stand on the food versus atmosphere debate? Is one more important than the other?

I've always found myself soundly on the side of food in this equation, preferring to eat at inhospitable dives for the chance to eat the best Italian, Chinese (you fill in the blank) in town.

But recently I've chosen atmosphere irrespective of the food, and that was exactly the case few weeks ago when I found myself at this exquisite dining room at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris. Look at this space!

From the painted ceilings to the immense chandeliers to the gilded decor, dining in this environment was an experience I would never have wanted to miss, and though the cafe food was excellent, it's the atmosphere that was thoroughly four stars. Good food. Great atmosphere. 

Do you have a recommendation for a restaurant with an atmosphere that's not to be missed?

--Tracy Schneider

Summer Camp For Grownups: Eat, Drink, Learn

There's no mess hall at Tom Douglas Culinary Summer Camp. No singalongs or s'mores. That's kid stuff.

No, Day Two of this camp in Seattle started with Bloody Marys and shots of Aquavit to accompany a Scandinavian breakfast of smoked trout, buttery lox made with Alaksan King Salmon and Swedish pancakes. Then, half the campers settled into their seats to watch chef Tom fabricate a pig, a rabbit and a squab while the other half headed into the kitchen for a veggie-centric cook-off.

Lucky me! I got to spend a mighty filling day at this popular event, the fourth annual, sold-out extravaganza. The action-packed day included a lineup of demos, a culinary guessing game (today's was name that root veggie) and a cooking competition. The guest chefs for Monday's demos have superstar credentials: Vikram Vij from Vij's in Vancouver, Holly Smith, a Tom Douglas alum who has a James Beard award hanging in her restaurant, Cafe Juanita and Duskie Estes from Zazu in Sonoma County. Chef Duskie also helped write Tom's Seattle Kitchens cookbook.

We watched chef Vikram prepare a savory jackfruit, one of the signature dishes from his restaurant (where patrons often wait hours for a table; the restaurant has a no reservations policy), as well as the Indian version of bouillabaisse and family-style chicken curry. He salts food at the end because the spices in curry have a natural salty quality. A great tip. He also predicted the next big thing in food will be eating bugs! He has made flour from ground crickets! It's high in protein.

Chef Holly showed us how to make the most perfect risotto. "You don't have to baby it," she said. She seared foie gras and finished it with cherries and candied ginger and said she believes in freedom of choice when it comes eating that controversial food. "Why isn't there more outrage about factory farms?" she wondered.

Chef Duskie, whose restaurant has a real-life farm out back, prepared caramelized popcorn with bacon bits, Vin Santo braised rabbit and, the sweet finale, peanut butter gelato sandwiched between peanut butter cookies and a chocolate dipping sauce.

We got tastes of all these incredible edibles, paired with lovely wines. I came home with the recipes, inspired to try and DIY.

-- Leslie Kelly

Atlanta's King of Pops Inspires Imitation

On a recent trip to Atlanta, I beat the heat with a retro cool treat: Icy sweets on a stick from the self-appointed King of Pops. This popular icy pop cart draws a crowd when it appears around town. I found it at a neighborhood farmers market and then again a couple of days later in the parking lot of a service station.

The menu is short, but wildly inventive. Flavors include Georgia Peach (naturally), Grapefruit Mint, Honeydew with Lime Zest, Pomegranate-Cherry, Mexican Chocolate, Baked Apple and Mandarin Basil. Even if the temp wasn't hovering around 90, these chilly bites would have been so refreshing. They were not too sweet. Very fruity. But because it was sweltering, you had to eat them quickly or they would start to drip, drip, drip. Just like when you were a kid.

I loved every bite and as soon as I got home, I order a set of Ice Pop Molds so I can start concocting my own frozen refreshers. I'm thinking of going even more savory. Like a gazapcho pop. Or a mashed potato and gravy pop. Just joshing, but there's really no limit to the clever combos you could create. What would your dream popscicle flavor be?

--Leslie Kelly

Mustard or Ketchup? What Do You Slather on Your Dog?

You may think that hot dogs are as American as apple pie, but in Iceland they're practically the national food. You can buy hot dogs at stands all over Reykjavik, but the place to try them is Baejarins Beztu Pylsur, a tiny kiosk down by the waterfront that has been in business since 1937.

When you order a pylsa (hot dog) with the works, you get ketchup, dark brown, slightly sweet Icelandic mustard, chopped raw and fried onions, and remoulade, a sweet mayonnaise. The dog itself produces a wonderful snap, thanks to its casing, and the fried onions add a delicious crunch. It's music in your mouth!

Like most hot dogs with "the works", whatever they may be (chili, kraut, slaw, etc.), this hot dogs requires several napkins and is very messy business. What do slather on your dog?

--Tracy Schneider