Al Dente

If The World Is My Oyster, Make It A Kusshi, Shigoku Or Blue Pool

I'm nuts about oysters. I love them fried, baked and simmered in creamy stews. But first and foremost, I love them cold and crisp on the half shell, a briny bite straight from the sea. You can't get much closer to nature than when you slurp a pristine oyster.

On New Year's Eve, my honey and I did a bit of bar hopping and we started by ordering a couple dozen beauties from the frigid waters of Puget Sound at Blueacre Seafood. It's always a treat to watch a skilled shucker at work. I'm a rank amateur, but I keep trying to work my trusty oyster knife.

When asked to name a favorite from the extensive list, our server didn't miss a beat: "Try the Blue Pools," he suggested. And, boy, they were good. (Pictured above.)

These gems are Pacific oysters that are "tumbled" while growing. This process, which has only been around for less than a decade, gradually shaves off the edge of the shell and forces the oyster to grow a deeper cup. This seems to be a trend among oyster growers in this part of the world, a welcome development to bivavle fans who appreciate a meaty oyster that's smaller in size.

Stellar Bay Shellfish on Vancouver Island was the leader in this innovative growing process, raising the oysters in suspended trays. Taylor Shellfish introduced its tumbled oyster -- the Shoguku -- three years ago, which are raised in bags that float up and down with the tides, pictured right. Effingham Inlet calls its version the Pacific Rim Petite. Last weekend was the first time I had spotted the tumbled version of a Hama Hama oyster. I'm sure there are more.

Oysters can be a little bit intimidating, especially when you are looking at a long list from which to choose. If you're on the West Coast, you're likely eating crassostrea gigas, a species originally from Japan. They're also known as Miyagi, but most commonly called Pacifics. Pacifics look and taste different, depending on where they're grown and how they're raised. No wonder people get confused!

My advice is to go to a good oyster bar and put yourself in the hands of a smart shucker. The best are like sushi masters, who will always steer you toward the best. Happy slurping! 

-- Leslie Kelly

Why Professional Restaurant Critics Matter

While reading the delightful debut review of Wong by The New York Times' restaurant critic Pete Wells in Wednesday's paper, I couldn't help cheering the continuation of this noble tradition. Sure, the rise of the populist Yelpsters has forever changed the way people think about getting advice on where to eat. Even Marge Simpson jumped into the mix on a recent, very entertaining episode of that long-running comedy. But there's still nothing like the objective ear, eye and palate of a trained observer to chronicle the endlessly interesting pursuit of inspired meals.

The best professional critics slip into a restaurant as anonymously as possible -- though that's much harder to do these days when it seems everyone's got a photo in the Internet etherworld. They order a variety of dishes, not just their personal favorites. They also drink in the surroundings, including the lighting, the music, the leftover lipstick smudges on the glassware. They evaluate the service and the drink menus and, sometimes even offer insight into what motivates a chef. (In Wells' review, for instance, readers learn the owner/chef had suffered a heart attack when he was younger, a crisis that set him on a path to explore exotic flavors across Southeast Asia, which are realized on the plate at his new place.)

As a recovering restaurant critic -- I wrote reviews for three different newspapers over the course of more than 15 years -- I truly appreciate and admire the effort involved in a calendar stuffed with non-stop eating. Believe me, I'm still carrying the extra baggage of being required to dine at least three times before writing a review. But I think that's what distinguishes a pro from even the most well-intentioned amateur. The critic is looking for consistency, whether good or bad, with repeated visits. Trashing a place after one bad meal is just bad form.

And whether they want to admit it or not, the professional critic plays the role of tastemaker by pointing out shining qualities as well as shortcomings. When a wine list is faulted for being skimpy on its selection, you can bet that's going to be addressed by any savvy restaurateur. And that's got to be a good thing, right?

Finally, professional restaurant critics remain relevant for the same reason drama critics and movie reviewers do, too. They serve as modern day historians, documenting the ebb and flow of chef's creative visions and the dining public's response to it. Even if I never plan to eat at a New York City restaurant that's been reviewed, I still get a big charge out of reading what's cooking in the center of the food universe. 

-- Leslie Kelly

Forecasting A Few Food Trends For 2012

While poring over a recent post on the James Beard Foundation Web site predicting which foods will be hot/hot/hot in the coming year, I couldn't help wondering what these pronouncements were based on. Was it a kind of chicken-or-the-egg scenerio?

Does a dish or a culinary technique become big because it's riding some imaginary wave of popularity? Or does the simple act of forecasting spark rising interest in authentic Thai food, smaller portion size and foods enriched with animal blood? (three of the trends coming in 2012, according to this report.) Who cares? It's good fun and I'm going to take a crack at calling a few, too. Most of mine are based on wishful thinking, but I did rightly predict last year that macarons would have their moment in the spotlight. 

1. Curative cocktails. With the shocking embrace of coconut water as the "it" beverage of 2011, I'm hoping to see bartenders take heed and go real retro with some of their concoctions. Because, if you know your liquid history, you'll know that the original drinks were meant to be tonics. I'm not imagining a wheatgrass and rye on the rocks, but something delicious that has some "healthy" ingredients to balance out the booze.

2. The rise of Southern-style layer cakes. While cupcakes and pies are still going strong, it seems only logical that restaurants pastry departments would want to give a fresh twist on the homey discs of cake spread with creamy frosting. Yes, Red Velvet's leading the charge, but here's hoping we'll also see more caramel and coconut layer cakes in the near future. Layer cakes shouldn't just be reserved for birthdays!

3. Better kid's meals at restaurants. Why must pint-sized diners be saddled with limited options like grilled cheese and plain pasta? I'm sure most picky kids don't want to stray from that time-honored formula, but these small customers deserve a little more respect and some cleverly cooked veggies.

My 11 Favorite Bites From 2011

I had a stupendously delicious year, both on the road and at home. Filling out my tasty calendar, there were two trips to New York City, where I was doing research for Tom Douglas' Chef's Walk project. I wandered around Manhattan and Brooklyn with Butter's chef de cuisine Ashley Merriman for this Kindle-exclusive guidebook, which will be out in early 2012. One of the many highlights from those trips was spending the day eating around the world in Harlem, dining at Marcus Samuelsson's high-flying Red Rooster, as well as strange and super-yummy Senagalese food, fragrant Cuban black beans and the best gyros I've eaten outside of Athens.

There were also two trips to my old stomping grounds in Memphis, in search of great barbecue, but also indulging in some incredible fine dining. I was thrilled during my two treks to Vancouver, B.C., and Whistler, once in the winter and back again in the summer. A weekend in Portland, Ore., further convinced me that it's one of the most exciting dining destinations in the country. And, in Seattle, there were many reasons of swoon over spectacular plates of food. 

The one constant? Nothing was part of a long, involved fancy meal. Casual was king. I'm looking forward to more of the same in 2012.

Here are my Top 11 Bites from 2011: 

11. Kenny & Zuke's Reuben sandwich, pictured above. Love/love/love the non-traditional smokiness of the tender pastrami on this terrific sandwich at this popular deli in Portland.

10. Scotch eggs at The Breslin. A simple pub staple takes an elegant detour at this star bar in The Ace Hotel in Midtown Manhattan. The runny yolks are a perfect compliment to the pork-y coat it wears. 

9. Shrimp and grits at Big Bad Breakfast. Lots of kitchens tackle this now-famous Low Country dish, but this luxe diner in Oxford, Miss., is the first place I've found them on the morning menu. Loved every last bite of them!

 

Pears Are Primed For Their Turn In The Spotlight

Pears are so under-appreciated. They’re kind of like the Brad Pitt of the fruit world, so handsome and sweet and so versatile yet nobody’s clearing a place on the mantle for any stellar statues.

I’d like to turn back the clock see Mr. Pitt win an Oscar for Benjamin Button (he was robbed!) and then zip back to the present and give pears an award for the tree fruit most likely to succeed in 2012. Why? Partly because USA Pears is pressing a convincing full-court blitz among plugged-in food lovers and respected chefs designed to generate buzz and elevate its status as a staple for salads and tarts. Not that there's anything wrong with pear tarts and pear salads! 

During a lunch last week in Seattle, celebrity chef Ethan Stowell (pictured here, pouring bubbly into an aperitif garnished with pears) created a four-course menu that showcased the fruit by coming up with some surprising, well… pairings.

At the downtown lofty-chic Tavolata, Stowell and his crew married slender matchsticks of pear with Italian olives, sections of Meyer Lemon and peppery watercress, which were artistically arranged on an ahi tuna crudo. Gorgeous!

That was followed by a soup that redefined the word creamy. Its velvety texture had to come from enough butter and cream to float Paula Deen’s boat, right? I asked Ethan and he said nope. The richness was the result of pureeing slow-simmered sunchokes and pear. There was a hint of sweetness, but the arrow definitely tipped more toward savory, a quality Stowell said he appreciates about pears. The recipe is featured on Pear USA’s Web site, with one minor adjustment. At lunch, the soup was topped with a seared scallop and fried sage leaves instead of the chanterelle mushrooms and bacon in the recipe. 

The main course was another spectacular use of pears as a vehicle for perfectly complementing meats, especially during the cool weather months. A slow-roasted duck breast was accompanied by a pear and parsnip puree that proved the age-old notion that the sum is even better than the parts. 

One of the challenges the pear people face is educating consumers and chefs about how to determine when a pear is ripe. They’re always picked firm, which makes them great for buying in bulk and storing in a cool, dark place over winter months.

The slogan they’ve come up with sounds a bit corny, but I suppose it makes sense: Check the neck. I always buy pears on the hard side and plan on giving them a few days at room temp to ripen. By pressing gently on the neck, you can tell if it gives, you’re ready to receive. (Sorry, couldn’t resist a little holiday pun!)

One of the most encouraging experiences on this media tour, timed to coincide with National Pear Month, was the warm reception the team got from producers of Iron Chef America. At a lunch in New York City, the Iron Chef reps were impressed with the many preparations in which pears shined brightly. 

So, if you see pears pop up as a secret ingredient on that popular Food Network show, you won’t be shocked because you’ll already have discovered the pleasures of this fruit, right? I'm sure game to try rolling out some new preparations after that inspiring lunch!

-- Leslie Kelly

Quite Possibly The Booziest Book Event Ever: Bitters Cocktail Tasting

Author Brad Thomas Parsons has been making the rounds in Portland, Ore., and Seattle to showcase his new release, Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All with Cocktails, Recipes & Formulas.

This exhaustive study of a slightly obscure subject is anything but dry and academic. Parsons -- formerly senior books editor at Amazon -- tells the tales behind these tasty tinctures in a way that might even be described as saucy.

The timing of this entertaining and engaging "celebration of cocktails made well" couldn't have been better, as the resurgence of hand-crafted cocktails continues to shake, stir and roll right along. I'll drink to that!

And, as a matter of fact, I did drink to that this week during an event at Tom Douglas' flagship restaurant in downtown Seattle, part of a series called Shop Talk at the Dahlia Lounge.

Guests sampled five lovely cocktails featuring bitters and accompanying savory snacks from Dahlia's chef de cuisine Brock Johnson as Parsons talked about researching the book, the art of cooking with bitters and pairing food with cocktails before fielding questions from the audience and signing copies of his handsome book.

The liquid lineup, served in courses, included a classic Champagne cocktail, served with sweet and spicy nuts (a recipe featured in the book), followed by a gorgeous Negroni served up and paired with salumi, chunks of Parmesan, an anchovy and an olive. Then came a sweet, sensationally seasonal drink called Autumn Sweater that was nicely complemented by a white pepper rubbed pork belly served atop a savory waffle. A whimsical turn on breakfast for dinner! Finally, another sparkling wine cocktail and a straight shot of Underberg bitters from Germany. Prost!

A little goes a long way when it comes to bitters and guests were invited to try a drop or two of the dozens of bottles of bitters from Parsons' extensive personal collection. The two most memorable I tried were a Memphis Barbecue Bitters (smoky!) and the Sriracha bitters!

This kind of show and tell, sip and share makes me so darned happy that authors have come up with such clever ways to get readers talking about their books! The tasty demo of the transformative powers of bitters inspired me to dust off my bottles of bitters and experiment.

Be sure and check out Brad's recipe for Cranberry-Spice Cocktail that appeared in the October issue of Food & Wine. And here's another of the drink from Bitters we tried last night.

Autumn Sweater

Makes 1 drink

• 1 ounce rye
• 1/2 ounce Averna
• 1/2 ounce Amaro Nonino
• 1/2 ounce maple syrup
• 1 dash Urban Moonshine maple bitters
• 1 dash orange bitters
• Garnish: thick clove-studded strip of orange zest

Combine all the ingredients except the garnish in a mixing glass filled with ice and stir until chilled. Add a large sphere of ice to a chilled double old-fashioned and strain the drink into the glass.

For the garnish, use a paring knife to slice a thick strip of zest from an orange. Twist it over the drink to release the essential oils and rub along the rim of the glass. Stud the orange zest with two whole cloves and drape it over the ice sphere.

-- Leslie Kelly

Improving on Perfection: Momofuku's Shrimp And Grits Recipe Redux

How do you improve upon a perfect recipe?

This was my improbable mission this weekend, as I made one of my favorite dishes from the fantastic Momofuku cookbook. It's a shrimp and grits with an Asian twist, bacon dashi providing a savory note to the symphony of flavors. (Here's the recipe, courtesy of Martha Stewart!)

But first a word about my plan. For the past few weeks, I've been test-driving a SousVide Supreme, the water oven that cooks vacuum-sealed food slowly at low temperature, intensifying the flavors and making for some incredibly tender textures.

I wanted to find out whether cooking the shrimp in David Chang's fantastic recipe would make the shellfish buttery soft and it did. No more rubbery shrimp!

Shrimp and grits is a dish that's exploded onto the nation's culinary consciousness after decades of being fairly obscure staple of low country cooking. That term refers to the traditions of coastal South Carolina and Georgia, regions famous for seafood. 

The very first time I had the dish was at Momofuku Noodle Bar shortly after it opened in 2004 on Manhattan's Lower East Side. This lunch turned out to be one of those meals where my husband looked as if he wanted to change seats because I was making so much noise while eating, mmm-ing loudly because I just couldn't help myself. 

Since getting a copy of the highly entertaining cookbook two years ago, I've been slightly obsessed with trying to recreate that bowl full of pleasure at home. I've come close, but, you know: some dishes are just better when prepared by pros.

My latest effort, however, pushed the dish into a better place. First, I found some wild pink shrimp from Florida. (Frozen, but I prefer that to buying the frozen/thawed shrimp at the seafood counter.) Now, many folks I've talked to have the impression that sous vide cooking is fussy and time-consuming. But this shrimp was cooked in about 20 minutes, finished with a quick sear in my trusty cast iron skillet.

After the shrimp had cooked, I held them in the fridge, upped the temp on the SousVide Supreme and added some eggs in their shells. In less than an hour, dinner was on the table. The eggs poached that way have super creamy yolks, almost like custard.

As an unscripted final touch, I made a little red-eye gravy to top the dish, the most basic addition of strong black coffee to a pan coated in bacon drippings. I added a splash of stock I made with the shrimp shells and a bit of butter, too. This embellishment was inspired by a shrimp and grits preparation I recently loved at Big Bad Breakfast in Oxford, Miss. 

These steps made a great dish even better. Still not exactly as good as the shrimp and grits at Momofuku, but I'm going to keep trying.

-- Leslie Kelly

 

Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium: You Shoulda Been There!

No matter how many glowing adjectives conjured to describe the stirring presentations on topics such as the history of radishes on the Gulf Coast, pimentos – the vegetable, not the cheese – and the resurgence of olive oil below the Mason-Dixon line, the annual Southern Foodways Alliance symposium is one of those you-had-to-be-there experiences.

And, lucky me, I was there. I’ve been going to this congenial congregation of more than 300 food writers, chefs, academics and enthusiasts of all things edible since 2004. Every year, I come away from the weekend stuffed full of speakers, memorable feasts and great conversations feeling well-fed in every way.

The Southern Foodways Alliance, part of the Center for Southern Studies at University of Mississippi, is a mighty force dedicated to documenting and preserving the traditions of a region rich in culinary traditions. The SFA also celebrates the new wave of uber-talented chefs who are putting their own twist on the classics.

Take the Kentucky bento box we enjoyed for lunch the first day of the symposium, a gorgeous mosaic of Southern favorites that took a delicious detour to include global flavors: pulled pork paired with kimchi, boiled peanuts and edamame, delicate chevre goat cheese prepared by Edward Lee from 610 Magnolia in Louisville, Kentucky.

In this food-obsessed crowd, it’s common to hear folks chewing over the minutiae of every meal, speculating on ingredients and preparations, swapping recipes. Old friends reconnect and new friendships form. Bonds forged over thrillingly delicious food prove strong indeed.

Here were a few highlights from this three-day event:

Oysters for breakfast! Yes, these slippery, succulent treats from Shooting Point Oyster Company near Chesapeake Bay in Virginia proved a fitting opening salvo for this year's topic, which was The Cultivated South.

Beautiful poetry beautifully read by poets Kevin Young and Michael McFee.

A moving opera written by 20-year-old Ole Miss student Price Walden. Leaves of Greens -- a Southern oratorio in three parts -- was billed as a "Collard Green Opera". While that sounds pretty whimsical, it was incredibly powerful when performed by talented group of college-age singers.

Lectures on radishes, pimentos and the story of one man's quest to save mirlitons in New Orleans were anything but dry and academic. These presentations helped illuminate what makes the South so rich when it comes to mining culinary history. It might seem hard to believe, but even a reading from a farm bulletin from the 1950s was fascinating.

Then, there was that sneaky strong punch served out of a vintage bathtub on Saturday night. This tasty treat was sipped while we listened to a primer on punch by noted boozehound, David Wondrich.

The day before, we were treated to shots. Golden shots of olive oil! The first olive oil produced south of the Mason-Dixon line since Thomas Jefferson tried growing trees way back when. Red hot Charleston chef Sean Brock gave a lively, informative talk about his quest to revive "TJ's" mission, part of his effort to serve local foods at Husk. 

Each and every meal was a grand slam, cooked for us by chefs whose names you should know if you don't already: Valerie Erwin, Billy Allin, Chris Hastings, Drew Robinson, Mike Lata, Alon Shaya, Alexandra Guarnaschelli and Tyler Brown, as well as hard-working host chef, John Currence and his tireless crew. Saturday night's feast was cooked al fresco on ginourmous Lodge Cast Iron skillets.

As always, I hate for this weekend to end, but knowing I'll be back gives me the strength to say so long, my suitcase bulging with tasty reminders of the South. This time, I packed up some country ham ("the South's prosciutto," my friend quipped), a big bag of grits and a Billy Reid-designed T-shirt that reads: Make Cornbread, Not War. 

-- Leslie Kelly

 

 

 

Dinner Party For 8 For A Good Cause? No Problem!

Actually, there were plenty of issues along the way, but this tale has a happy ending, so hang in there while I recount the pitfalls of making a meal for people I've never met.

There were many times during this process, I wondered what the heck I had gotten myself into. My motives were good. I donated a dinner party to an auction for the University District Food Bank, a feast that included an autographed copy of Mario Batali's Molto Gusto AND a cameo appearance by Seattle restaurant magnate, Tom Douglas. 

Hooray! It sold for big bucks at the annual auction and 11 months later, we finally synced up calendars of very busy people and it was party time. But, for me, the prep started days before. First, the first menu needed fine tuning when I learned a couple of the guests were gluten-sensitive. The book, which is full of really great recipes, focuses on a whole lot of veggie dishes, pizza and pasta.

I shifted gears and put a wild mushroom risotto on the menu instead of two pasta dishes. There would be antipasti to start, including a dazzling selection of charcuterie donated by Mario B's sister, Gina, who runs the sensational Salumi with her husband, Brian D'Amato. I supplimented that with marinated artichoke hearts, pickled okra, roasted peppers and sliced fennel that I cooked in the SousVide Supreme I was test-driving. 

The cocktail hour was a blast, Tom, and his wife, Jackie Cross, were gracious, easily chatting with the guests. He talked about his role in supporting a new initiative to expand the facilities for Food Lifeline, the huge distributor of edibles to smaller outfits such as the U-District Food Bank. Tom's contribution to this experience couldn't have gone any better. When Tom and Jackie left, the guests sat down for dinner on the deck. 

For the salad course, I made a version of Zach's Escarole Salad, a dish I'd seen demo-ed last fall by mega-watt TV star chef Anne Burrell. It has become my absolute favorite salad, the parm-Italian parsley-toasted hazelnut topping is brilliant!

Thank goodness I had my friend, Carl, along on this adventure to be my sous chef. Carl had worked in professional kitchens and he brought a focus to getting the food to the table that I lacked. (I got caught up, visiting, a frequent goof many home cooks make when entertaining.)

We served Spaghetti alla Carbonara, roasted cauliflower with olives, Hot and Cold Summer Squash and the wild rice risotto, for which I had made a porcini-infused oil to drizzle on top. (Just slow simmered dry mushrooms in a neutral canola oil for 10 minutes, then removing from the heat and letting them steep for another 60 minutes.)

Before dessert, the guests gave me and Carl a round of applause, which was very nice and I turned that cheer back on them for supporting the food bank. 

Buttermilk gelato -- donated by the awesome Full Tilt Ice Cream -- was topped with the last-of-the-season golden raspberries. Ladies and gents, after months of planning and days of prepping, we have a wrap! 

And, yes, I would do it again!

-- Leslie Kelly

Sunday Chicken Challenge: Cast Iron Skillet vs. Non-Stick

Fried chicken is so hot right now!

Not surprising, considering it's humble and down-home delicious. Fancy restaurants are putting it in on their menus. I recently had a fantastic fried yardbird at Marcus Sameulsson's Red Rooster in Harlem, for instance. Famous fried chicken shacks in the South have become even bigger draws than they already were.

It makes a whole lot of sense to eat fried chicken out because it's such a hot mess to make. But, splattering grease be danged! It sure does taste great. So, I made started my Sunday fried chicken dinner on Saturday, soaking the pieces in buttermilk, an adaptation of the wonderful recipe by Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock's beautiful book, The Gift of Southern Cooking.

I decided to do a little experiment and fry two batches in two different skillets, a Lodge Cast Iron and a non-stick Calphalon. I dredged the chicken in seasoned flour with a little bit of cornstarch added to the mix. Into the 350-degree oil went the floured pieces. The cast iron skillet seemed to hold the temp more evenly. The nonstick got hot quickly and for a sec, I thought the bird might burn. I turned down the heat and things simmered down.

The key is to get that temp right because you want to leave the pieces alone for at least 10 minutes before turning the chicken. Even though I put it in after the pieces in the cast iron, I turned the chicken in the nonstick first. It looked good, dark mahogany, a couple shades beyond golden.

After 30 minutes, I took the pieces out of both pans and finished them in the oven for another 10. Just enough time to whip the potatoes and make some gravy. It got rave reviews around the table and I was a little surprised to compare the two and find they were more similar than different. The pieces fried in the cast iron was juicy, the crust crispy. The same could be said for the other batch with one subtle difference: Because I put the lid on the sputtering nonstick, the crust didn't have the same dramatic crunch.

I think this great experiment calls for another round of testing!

-- Leslie Kelly