To Sauce Or Not To Sauce: The Great Grilling Question
There were some delicious lessons learned down South, especially when I took a seminar in judging competition Q. You know how people describe the ultimate rib as a falling-off-the-bone tender experience? That's not what you're going for during competition. The best barbecue ribs need a little tug, the meat has a firm (not chewy) texture.
The thing I find lacking in many rib preparations I've tried in restaurants outside the South is that the kitchen doesn't trim up the rib. The flap of flesh remains intact, so it adds to the cooking time, but not the overall enjoyment because that piece of meat is generally chewy.
Depending on who's cooking, the ribs are mopped with a vinegar-y sauce throughout the low-and-slow process or they're basted in sauce at the end so they develop a nice char. I like 'em both ways, though usually prefer the sauce on the side. I love them cooked off the fire, but finished with a little sear.
Those were the instructions I gave to the aspiring pitmaster. I heard back from him a couple of days later and he said the ribs were great. Score!
So how do you roll with your rack of ribs? Sauce or no sauce while cooking? The ribs in the photo, by the way, were sauced and served at one of my favorite neighborhood restaurants in Seattle. Those Kansas City-style ribs are a summer feature at Crow.
-- Leslie Kelly


