Chocolate

Candy: A Halloween Love Story

41HSGBVHKML._SS500_ It was a toss-off question I posed on Twitter a couple of days ago: What's your favorite low-brow candy?

I 'fessed up to keeping Junior Mints in my freezer, a habit I picked up, oddly enough, while watching "Julie & Julia" this summer at a theater that sold those movie house staples frozen. It makes the mint even more refreshing.

Almost instantly, this silly query prompted all sorts of funny feedback. I heard from folks who have a thing for Butterfinger, Rolos, Reese's Peanut Butter Cups and Coffee Crisp. Though, Coffee Crisp doesn't seem exactly low-brow because it is imported. From Canada.

I had to laugh when one Twitter buddy in San Francisco said she immediately headed out to the corner store, in search of Junior Mints. There were only York Peppermint Patties. Close, but not what she was suddenly craving. "I'm so suggestible," she Tweeted.

The good, sweet fun slopped over to my Facebook page, where another roar of approval for good/bad candy was heard. Candy Corn was a huge hit, especially when paired with peanuts. One comment, though, had me laughing out loud and groaning at the same time. Chef Bill Smith gleefully spilled his guilty pleasure: Those marshmallows shaped like circus peanuts paired with mayo. As the old saying goes, don't knock it until you've tried it. So, I'm officially not knocking it.

Anybody think they can top that? How about piling on and adding your favorite treat?

-- Leslie Kelly

A Big Canner, the Right Canning Tools, and Black Forest Preserves

I can admit it: I’m lucky. If not in every single aspect of life (I’ve never flipped a coin twenty times and had it come up all heads, for example) at least in the fact that I have a giant Rainer cherry tree in my backyard. It delivers a host of the slightly sweet, usually yellow-reddish delights each year in early summer, and the birds and I split them up--they get the ones way up high and I get the more easily reachable fruits. There are always enough that I partial them out, some for snacking, some for soaking in bourbon, and some for making into jam or jellies. In the past, I’ve always gone for just straight cherry jam, but this year I decided to branch out and tried a recipe for Black Forest Preserves, adapted from the Ball Complete Book of Home Preservation. As you’ll see below, this recipe mixes up cherries with the normal sugar, plus a little bit of chocolate and amaretto for an end result that’s out of this world, especially good with cream cheese and crackers or mixed in with vanilla ice cream. Before getting started though, I had to get my tools together, which means bringing out my large Columbian Home 33-quart jar canner, which is black enamel on steel. It’s quite a monster, and usually I use it for larger batches of everything from jam to tomato sauce to canned red peppers, but since it comes with a sure-fitting rack, it worked for this slightly smaller batch of preserves.

Canning-pot-kit

As you can see in the above picture, I also opened up my Back to Basics canning tool kit. It includes a jar lifter, magnetic lid lifter (the crucial tool for removing lids and bands from boiling water), a canning funnel, kitchen tongs, and a jar wrench. I’ve found that if I keep all these helpful tools together in the box when done using them, I never have a problem finding them when I need them. The fact that they’re highlighted in a nice bright red does make it shame to box them up and not show them, but if you knew how fast I could lose something in my kitchen cabinets, you’d understand.

A couple hints about these preserves: I used 4 cups of cherries when 3 were suggested, and chopped them a little less, and all came out fine, and I used Di Saronno amaretto and it added just the right amount of flavor. It makes about 7 half pints, and the results were luscious, pretty and tasty.

Black-forest-preserves

Ingredients:
6 1/2 cups sugar
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa
4 cups pitted and roughly chopper Rainer cherries
1/2 cup lemon juice
2 three ounce packages liquid pectin
4 Tablespoons Di Saronno amaretto

Directions:
1. Prepare canner, jars, and lids in a boiling water bath for at least 10 minutes.

2. In a bowl, combine sugar and cocoa. Stir well.

3. In a large saucepan, combine cherries and lemon juice. Stir in cocoa mixture. Over high heat, stirring constantly, cook until it reaches a full rolling boil that cannot be stirred down.

4. Stir in pectin. Bring back to a boil and boil hard, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Stir in amaretto. Remove from heat and skim off foam if needed.

5. Ladle hot preserves into hot jars, leaving approximately 1/4-inch headspace. Remove air bubbles if needed, wipe rim, and then center the lid on the jar. Screw bands on tight.

6. Place jars in canner, ensuring they are completely covered with water. Bring to a boil, and then process for 10 minutes. Remove canner lid. Wait 5 minutes, and then remove jars. Place them on a flat surface until set.

--A.J. Rathbun

Brownie Bake-off: And the Winner is...

Kate's-famous-brownies If there's one thing I've learned after trying 13 different brownie recipes over the course of the summer, it's that there's a brownie recipe out there to satisfy every palate. And I know that I've only scratched the surface.

Surprisingly, I learned as much about myself as I did about brownies. Basically, I'm just lazy in the kitchen. I want brownies to be quick and easy. If I need a mixer or food processor, I'm not even interested. And I hate cleaning up.

After a summer of testing, I've decided that brownies should be fudgy and chock full of nuts. They shouldn't be too rich. I want to eat more than one. You may disagree. That's why I have included links to all the brownie bake-off recipes below. They're all winners. You can't go wrong with a single one.

As for me, the most deliciously memorable brownies come from Katharine Hepburn's kitchen. Yes, I'd avoided them for years. I thought their success was just based on hype. But Kate's Famous Brownies get my vote for the fudgiest, nuttiest brownies around. They're simple to make. The recipe isn't complex, and the ingredients aren't expensive. Plus, it's made in a single pan. Other great saucepan brownies I tried: Tricia's American Heritage Brownies, Maggies Fudge Brownies, Ladies Home Journal's 1959 Saucepan Brownies, and the toffee-like Eva Jane's Blonde Brownies. They're perfect picnic brownies.

But that's not where my story ends. Ina Garten's Outrageous Brownies stole my heart with their crazy over-the-top excess. They're fun to make and easily feed a crowd. Try them out at your next party.

A few more insights? I found that most of the brownies I tried tasted even more delicious on the second day. So I learned that brownies are a great make-ahead dessert. I discovered that most of the recipes, even though they may have suggested I use parchment as a liner, cut neat and clean even without once the brownies had cooled completely. (But don't try this with the Amazing Black Bean Brownies. It won't work.)

When my father-in-law saw his first brownie, he thought that the poor cook's cake had fallen. No one is really sure of the brownie's origins, but what a marvelous discovery!

The Amazing Black Bean Brownies
Ina Garten's Outrageous Brownies
Ina Garten's Brownie Tart
Tricia's American Heritage Brownies
Justin Banks' Kahlua-Infused Brownies
The Baked Brownie
Kate's Famous Brownies
The Silver Palate Brownie
Eva Jane's Blonde Brownies
Ruth Reichl's Artpark Brownies

Maggie's Fudge Brownies
Supernatural Brownies
Ladies Home Journal's 1959 Saucepan Brownies

--Tracy Schneider

Brownie Bake-off: Not Your Mother's Brownies!

Black-bean-brownies Followers of the Brownie Bake-off know that I was planning our grand finale for today. But given the number of recent submissions, I just had to carve out a few more days to share recipes with you.

I wrote about Ina Garten's Outrageous Brownies yesterday, and today I want to share one last recipe, suggested by Al Dente reader b, for Ania Catalano's Amazing Black Bean Brownies. Stay tuned for the Finale, which I'm promising, will be tomorrow!

Several people have asked about a "healthier" brownie, and these black bean brownies are it. For those who are dairy-sensitive or gluten-intolerant, this recipe is for you. For those who need to watch their sugar intake, this recipe uses agave nectar which is lower on the glycemic index than other sweeteners. If you've been forced to change your diet as a result of any of these medical conditions, you'll be indebted to Catalano and her book Baking with Agave Nectar.

The Amazing Black Bean Brownies

Ingredients:
4 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1 cup unsalted butter or non-hydrogenated butter substitute
2 cups soft-cooked black beans, drained well
1 cup walnuts
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup natural coffee substitute (or instant coffee, for gluten-sensitive)
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
4 large eggs
1-1/2 cups light agave nectar

Directions:
1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Line an 11-by-18-inch baking pan with parchment paper and lightly oil with canola oil spray.

2. Melt the chocolate and butter in a glass bowl in the microwave for 1-1/2 to 2 minutes on high. Stir with a spoon to melt the chocolate completely. Place the beans, 1/2 cup of the walnuts, the vanilla extract, and a couple of spoonfuls of the melted chocolate mixture into the bowl of a food processor. Blend about 2 minutes, or until smooth. The batter should be thick and the beans smooth. Set aside.

3. In a large bowl, mix together the remaining 1/2 cup walnuts, remaining melted chocolate mixture, coffee substitute, and salt. Mix well and set aside.

4. In a separate bowl, with an electric mixer beat the eggs until light and creamy, about 1 minute. Add the agave nectar and beat well. Set aside.

5. Add the bean/chocolate mixture to the coffee/chocolate mixture. Stir until blended well. Add the egg mixture, reserving about 1/2 cup. Mix well. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Using an electric mixer, beat the remaining 1/2 cup egg mixture until light and fluffy. Drizzle over the brownie batter. Use a wooden toothpick to pull the egg mixture through the batter, creating a marbled effect. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the brownies are set. Let cool in the pan completely before cutting into squares. (They will be soft until refrigerated.)

Catalano's notes: Brownies will slice much better if refrigerated several hours or overnight.

Makes 45 (2-inch) brownies.

Baking with Agave Nectar, Ania Catalano, Celestial Arts, 2008

--Tracy Schneider

Brownie Bake-off: Ina Garten's Outrageous Brownies

Outrageous-brownie Al Dente reader Joan suggested at last week's Brownie Bake-off that I try another of Ina Garten's brownie recipes, the Outrageous Brownie. So I slipped this in at the last minute, right before tomorrow's finale.

The recipe was irresistible, and I found myself positively giddy in the kitchen. A whole pound of butter! One and three-quarters pounds chocolate chips! Three cups walnuts! The baking sheet, 12" x 18", was so large, I didn't even own one, and I wasn't sure if it would fit into my tiny oven.

I love Ina Garten, her cookbooks and her cooking shows. She's so down-to-earth, she makes cooking fun and easy. And I found it so refreshing to learn that she suggested using Hershey's chocolate chips rather than "best quality chocolate".

And those Outrageous Brownies? They were decadent and delicious. Who could ask for more?

Ina Garten's Outrageous Brownies

Ingredients:
1 pound unsalted butter
1 pound plus 12 ounces semisweet chocolate chips
6 ounces unsweetened chocolate
6 extra-large eggs
3 tablespoons instant coffee granules
2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract
2-1/4 cups sugar
1-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
3 cups chopped walnuts

Directions:
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Melt together the butter, 1 pound of chocolate chips, and the unsweetened chocolate in a medium bowl over simmering water. Allow to cool slightly. In a large bowl, stir (do not beat) together the eggs, coffee granules, vanilla, and sugar. Stir the warm chocolate mixture into the egg mixture and allow to cool to room temperature.

3. In a medium bowl, sift together 1 cup of flour, the baking powder, and salt. Add to the cooled chocolate mixture. Toss the walnuts and 12 ounces of chocolate chips in a medium bowl with 1/4 cup of flour, then add them to the chocolate batter. Pour into the baking sheet.

4. Bake for 20 minutes, then rap the baking sheet against the oven shelf to fore the air to escape from between the pan and the brownie dough. Bake for about 15 minutes, until a toothpick comes out clean. Do not overbake! Allow to cool thoroughly, refrigerate, and cut into 20 large squares.

Ina Garten's notes: We find that Hershey's chocolate chips work very well. Flouring the chips and walnuts keeps them from sinking to the bottom. It is very important to allow the batter to cool well before adding the chcolate chips, or the chips will melt and ruin the brownies. This recipe can be baked up to a week in advanc,e wratpped in plastic, and refrigerated.

Tracy's notes: When checking with a toothpick, don't be fooled by a what looks like raw batter, but is more likely a gooey chocolate chip. Test in a few places!

Makes 20 large brownies

The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook, Ina Garten, Clarkson Potter, 1999

--Tracy Schneider

Brownie Bake-off: Ina Garten's Brownie Tart

Brownie-tarteLeave it to Ina Garten, the Barefoot Contessa, to create a brownie unlike any other.

It's not that her recipe is so different from the many I've tried for this summer's Brownie Bake-off, though she does use chocolate chips rather than chocolate squares, instant coffee granules and even some baking powder to create her fudgy brownies. 

But Garten's presentation, baking her brownies in a French tart pan rather than the typical square or rectangular pan, gives them a French cachet that is completely unexpected in a down-home American brownie.  

Ina Garten's Brownie Tart

Ingredients:
6 tablespoons (3/4 sticks) unsalted butter
3 1/4 cups (20 ounces) semisweet chocolate chips
3 extra-large eggs
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon instant coffee granules
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (4 ounces) chopped walnuts
2 tablespoons heavy cream

Directions:
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Grease and flour an 11-inch tart pan with removable sides.

2. Melt the butter in a bowl set over simmering water. Add 2 cups of the chocolate chips, remove from the heat, and stir until the chocolate melts. Set aside to cool completely.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the eggs, sugar, coffee, and vanilla on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. stir in the cooled chocolate.

4. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, salt, 1 cup of chocolate chips, and the walnuts. Fold the flour mixture into the batter until just combined.

5. Pour into the pan and bake for for 34 to 40 minutes, until the center is puffed (the top may crack). The inside will still be very soft. Cool to room temperature before removing the sides of the tart pan.

6. Melt the remaining 1/4 cup of the chocolate chips with the heavy cream and drizzle on the tart. Serve in wedges alone or on a puddle of creme anglaise.

Serves 8.

Barefoot Contessa in Paris, Ina Garten, Clarkson Potter, 2004

--Tracy Schneider

 

Friday Links for Food Lovers, Plus Foodista's Top Food Reads

It's Friday again! Here are a few tasty links the Al Dente editors obsessed about this week:

Chocolate Caramel Tart

Photo courtesy of Lottie + Doof.

While you're out and about, reading up on food news, don't miss the Foodista's top 10 food reads, including:

  1. The Omnivore's Dilemma by Michael Pollan
  2. The Sharper Your Knife, the Less You Cry by Kathleen Flinn
  3. Heat by Bill Buford

Hop on over to Foodista to view the full list!

Did I miss a not-to-be-missed foodie link from this past week? Add a comment or tweet at me!

Have a great weekend!

--KitchenMaus

Guest Blogger Alice Currah: Nothing Beats a Cupcake Made from Scratch and Baked with Love

Alice Currah loves to bake and cook. Currently raising three kids at home, she's also the creator and photographer of recipe-food blog SavorySweetLife.com. Prior to having children, her design and restaurant experience led her to open her own wedding cake business. A Seattle native, she can often be found drinking coffee, eating chocolate, and developing recipes. We are thrilled to have her guest blogging today on Al Dente, especially since she's sharing a recipe we all had the good fortune of taste testing--this is one chocolatey sensation you won't want to miss!

Chocolate espresso cupcakes with Frangelico ganache Since I was a little girl, just the very sight of a cupcake brought a huge grin to my face and instant happiness to my heart. Just the anticipation of eating one would momentarily whisk away my troubles and make the day complete.

Cupcakes are nostalgic--every bite satisfies a need to connect with memories and personalities we cherish. That special day with my favorite cupcake flavor always brings me to a giddy place. Whimsical little cakes with a mound of frosting and rainbow sprinkles...so delicious and left to made you feel so fussed over! Even looking at Jessie Oleson’"Cuppie" illustrations on Cakespy.com can bring a smile to the burliest and brawniest.

Nothing beats a cupcake made from scratch and baked with love. A current favorite in my household are chocolate espresso cupcakes frosted with chocolate ganache. The kids enjoy the chocolate truffle-like frosting while my husband and our friends love the rich and decadent Frangelico-flavored ganache. The marriage of chocolate and hazelnut liqueur results in a sophisticated cupcake not for the faint of heart. For those of you who appreciate a twist on a classic cake made new, I present to you Alice’s Chocolate Espresso Cupcakes with Frangelico Ganache. Enjoy!

Alice’s Espresso Chocolate Cupcakes with Frangelico Ganache
Makes approximately 40 cupcakes

Ingredients:
Frangelico Chocolate Ganache *see below
2 shots espresso with 1-3/4 cups hot water (Americano), or substitute 2 cups hot strong coffee
1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
2-3/4 cups all-purpose flour (11-1/4 ounces)
2 teaspoons baking soda
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
1 cup sugar
2 cups brown sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
4 eggs

Chocolate cupcakes  

Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line standard muffin tins with paper liners. In a small bowl, mix cocoa powder and Americano/coffee until it looks like a smooth chocolate sauce; set aside to cool. In a large bowl or stand mixer, cream butter and sugars until nice and fluffy. Add vanilla and eggs one at a time, beating well after each one. Slowly add flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt until batter and mix for 2 minutes. Add chocolate-coffee sauce mixture and mix the cake batter for 3 minutes on medium-high or until the batter is smooth.

2. Fill each muffin cup until 2/3 full. Bake about 25 minutes. Cool in pan for 5 minutes before removing and allow to cool on a wire rack. Frost each cupcake with a heap of Frangelico chocolate ganache.  

Enjoy!

Frangelico Ganache

Ingredients:
16 ounces high-quality semi-sweet chocolate, chopped into small pieces
1-1/2 cups heavy cream
6 tablespoons Frangelico hazelnut liqueur

Guittard chocolate  

Directions:
In a small saucepan, bring heavy cream to a boil and immediately turn heat off.  Add chocolate to the cream, stirring constantly until chocolate ganache is smooth. Add Frangelico liqueur and allow ganache to cool.  

*For more information on different ways to use ganache as frosting, see this post I recently wrote on SavorySweetLife.com titled, “Simply Glorious: Chocolate Ganache 3 Ways.”

--Alice Currah

Brownie Bake-off: Tricia's American Heritage Brownies

American-heritage-brownies Al Dente reader Tricia submitted a classic brownie recipe from the American Heritage Cookbook and Illustrated History of American Eating & Drinking. This fascinating tome, now out of print, offers classic recipes and even menus as well as a wonderful history of the table.

Their brownie recipe is similar to several of the classic recipes submitted earlier for the Brownie Bake-off, Kate's Famous Brownies and Saucepan Brownies Circa 1959. The major difference lies in the amount of flour used. And because in this recipe the butter was worked in rather than melted, the batter that went into the oven was much lighter in color than other recipes. The final brownies, though were as dark and delicious as any others I've made. Thanks, Tricia!

Tricia's American Heritage Cookbook Brownies

Ingredients:
2 squares (2 ounces) unsweetened chocolate
1/2 cup butter
1 cup sugar
2 eggs, well beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla (with a little oops!)
1/2 cup sifted all-purpose flour (I don't sift)
Pinch of salt
1/2 cup chopped walnuts (I break nuts into chunks)

Directions:

1. Melt chocolate over hot water.

2. Work butter until soft, then gradually beat in sugar. When mixture is as smooth as possible, beat in eggs and vanilla. Stir in flour, salt, melted chocolate, and chopped nuts (or broken nuts).

3. Pour into a greased (with butter) 8-inch square cake pan and bake in a preheated 350 degree F. oven for 25 to 30 minutes (brownies should remain soft). Cut into squares.

Tricia's notes: Instead of chocolate squares, I use powdered, unsweetened chocolate mixed with the appropriate amount of oil per the unsweetened chocolate container, so no need to melt it over hot water. I never sift the flour, but I do add a little extra vanilla to the batter.

Tracy's notes: I am well stocked with baking chocolate at my house, so I used chocolate squares.

Yield: 16 brownies

American Heritage Cookbook and Illustrated History of American Eating & Drinking, American Heritage Publishing Company, 1964

--Tracy Schneider

Brownie Bake-off: Justin Banks' Kahlua-Infused Brownies

Kahlua-brownies It's the ninth week of our Brownie Bake-off. I'll be trying a few more recipes these next few Sundays until the final installment over Labor Day Weekend, so it's not too late to join in the fun!

Last week, Justin Banks pointed out that the brownies I made from the Baked Cookbook, with almost 3/4 of a pound of chocolate, 2 cups of sugar, and 2 sticks of butter were, perhaps, a bit over the top. He called for a little restraint (in fat, calories and cash) and shared his recipe for Kahlua-infused brownies. In fact, the Black Russian Brownie recipe he passed along came with the bottle of Kahlua.

Justin altered the recipe some himself, you can read his changes below, and I altered it further. l love Kahlua and thought the Mexican coffee-flavored liqueur would enhance the chocolate in the brownies, similar to the way instant espresso powder can. But I passed on the black pepper and the vodka the recipe also calls for. I didn't want the chocolate to have to share the spotlight. 

The Kahlua did give a delicious depth to these chocolate brownies, which I happened to discover travel well. If you're a fan of cake brownies (note the baking powder in the recipe), these are for you. Thanks, Justin!

Justin Bank's Black Russian Brownies

Ingredients:
4 ounces unsweetened chocolate
12 tablespoons butter
4 large eggs
1 cup sugar (original recipe 1-1/2 cup)
1/2 cup Kahlua (original recipe 1/3 cup)
2 tablespoons vodka
1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3/4 teaspoons black pepper (this is an interesting twist, but can be omitted)
1-1/3 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup roasted nuts (chopped walnuts and/or pecans, sliced almonds)

Directions:
1. Make a sling out of parchment paper or tin foil to cover the bottom of a 9 x 13 inch pan and spray with cooking spray. Heat over to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

2. Melt chocolate and butter over saucepan or in microwave.

3. Mix flour, salt, baking powder, and nuts, if using, in another bowl.

4. Beat eggs with sugar, pepper and vanilla in a large bowl until blended.

5. Stir in cooled chocolate mixture, then Kahlua and vodka. Add the flour mixture and stir until blended. Of course, don't over-mix. Turn into pan.

6. Bake for about 22 minutes depending on your oven. I would start checking at 18 minutes. There is nothing worse than over-baked brownies. Let cool on a rack to room temp, about 2 hours before lifting out of the pan.

Justin's additional notes: It also comes with a Fudge Frosting, but I've never tried it since it's sinful enough as is. For those sinners who think no dessert can be too debauched, here is the piece de resistance:

Fudge Frosting

Ingredients:
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1 ounce bittersweet chocolate
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons Kahlua
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 cups powdered sugar

Directions:
1. In microwave, melt unsweetened chocolate and bittersweet chocolate with butter until chocolate turns shiny. Stir until melted.

2. Heat Kahlua and heavy cream for 45 seconds.

3. Combine chocolate and Kahlua mixtures with powdered sugar. Beat until well blended and thick.

4. Frost room temperature brownies immediately, as mixture stiffens upon cooling.

Tracy's notes: I followed Justin's altered brownie recipe, but eliminated the vodka and the black pepper. Rather than mix the walnuts I used with the flour, salt and baking powder, I think it's best to add them by themselves at the very end. If they're mixed with the flour, they retain a light flour coating even after they're baked. I didn't try the frosting either, though it sounds great.

--Tracy Schneider

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