Al Dente

Braiden-Rex Johnson: Cool Cocktails

It was a red-letter day in June when the editors of Food & Wine magazine’s Cocktails 2009 named ART Restaurant and Lounge in the Four Seasons Hotel Seattle as one of the top 100 bars and lounges across America. Food & Wine’s annual cocktail compendium presents more than 150 of the best cocktail and party recipes from cutting-edge bartenders coast to coast.

I was particularly pleased when ART was chosen since it’s right across the street from our downtown Seattle condo, so it’s easy to slip across the plaza for a sip and a nosh without getting in the car.

ART took home the bacon for one of its signature cocktails--Sorriso. The creative cocktail--which translates as “smile” in Italian--includes pear vodka, gin, cream sherry, cherry brandy, and Angostura bitters, all garnished with a twist of lemon.

Recently, I’ve been taken with another of ART’s signature cocktails--The Big Dill. It’s the kind of drink that’s fashionable of late, with savory ingredients (fresh cucumber) muddled with herbs (fresh dill) and mixed with freshly squeezed lime juice and agave syrup (a healthy sugar substitute, although simple syrup works just as well). The citrus and sweet syrup create a sort of sweet-and-sour effect, while good-quality vodka adds the final cool, crisp, alcoholic punch.

Since I’m really more of a wine aficionado than cocktail expert, I turn to books by two of Seattle’s cocktail kingpins and buddies of mine, whenever I have a question.

Just this spring, Seattle celebrity chef Kathy Casey whipped up a delightful new tome (her ninth) entitled, Sips & Apps: Classic and Contemporary Recipes for Cocktails and Appetizers.

With a hip, yet retro feel, the book is stylishly produced in Casey’s signature colors--robin’s egg blue, celadon, chocolate brown and silver--and includes more than 100 appetizer and cocktail recipes, a bar-basics section, recipes for cocktail cornerstones such as infused syrups and fresh fruit purées, along with insider tips.

A.J. Rathbun, kitchen editor at Amazon.com, is one of the most prolific writers I’ve ever met. His award-winning Good Spirits: Recipes, Revelations, Refreshments, and Romance, Shaken and Served with a Twist is an entertaining and engaging collection of 450 classic and contemporary cocktail recipes with quirky names (Headshrinker, Flaming Dr. Pepper, Obituary Cocktail), lively headnotes, and gorgeous photos by the aptly named Melissa Punch.

For those who want to try their hand at making a cool cocktail at home, here’s a recipe for The Big Dill courtesy of ART Restaurant and Lounge.

The Big Dill
Serves 1

Ingredients:
3 sprigs fresh dill, leafy parts only (no stems)
4 (1/2-inch) slices fresh cucumber
1/2 ounce agave syrup or simple syrup (See Cook’s Hint, below)
Juice of half a fresh lime
1-1/2 ounces Square One Vodka or other good-quality vodka 

Directions:

1. In a cocktail shaker, with a muddler or wooden spoon, gently press the dill and 3 slices of the cucumber. Add the agave syrup and gently press to combine the ingredients. Add the lime juice and gently press to combine. 

2. Add the vodka and enough ice to fill the shaker and cover. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled martini glass until you reach the last half inch of liquid, which should be discarded as it may contain large flecks of dill.

3. To garnish, slice the remaining cucumber halfway into the center and position it on the rim of the martini glass.

Cook’s Hint: To make simple syrup, in a small saucepan, bring equal parts sugar and water to a boil; simmer until the sugar is dissolved, 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool completely. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate in a glass jar for up to 1 month.

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Photo of Braiden by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon

Braiden Rex-Johnson Serves Up Oysters Gratineé

September is my favorite month of the year because it signals the onslaught of oyster season.

Pairing the proper wines with raw oysters on the half shell is a delicious challenge, one of particular interest in the Pacific Northwest, the nation’s leading oyster-producing region.

Young, lean white wines with crisp acidity that slices through the briny, metallic, cucumber-y, sea-breeze flavors of oysters, routinely win oyster-and-wine-pairing contests.

Varietals that “let the oyster be an oyster” while refreshing the palate are common favorites: Sauvignon Blanc (sometimes labeled as Fumé Blanc), Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blends, Chenin Blanc, Chablis, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Melon (which in France is known as Muscadet).

Best to steer away from big, buttery, and heavily oaked Chardonnays, though. Their bold flavors clash with, and silky mouth feel often overwhelm, the beloved bivalve. Also nix anything red, Rosé, sweet, hot (high in alcohol), full-bodied, or overly flavorful in comparison to the oysters.

And be sure to serve your oyster wine cold--as cold as your oysters--so the two are simpatico. Pre-chilling the bottle in a wine cellar or refrigerator, then keeping it an ice-filled ice bucket as you enjoy it with the oysters, works well for this.

Cooked oysters are equally fun to pair with wine. Just keep in mind the sauce, herbs, and spices served with the oyster, and you’ll be in good shape.

As an excellent example, here’s a recipe for a true classic--Oysters Gratinée--oysters baked in a creamy cheese sauce. It comes from my seventh book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007) and is the inspiration of Philippe Boulot, long-time executive chef of the venerable Heathman Restaurant, adjacent to The Heathman Hotel in downtown Portland.

The busy chef once cooked a 10-course dinner at the venerable James Beard House in New York City in which every course incorporated oysters! In keeping with the tips above, he suggests pairing his oyster dish with a good-quality Semillon.

Oysters Gratinée
Varietal: Semillon
Serves 4 as an appetizer

20 fresh Pacific Northwest oysters, such as Westcott Bay European Flats, Kumamoto, Kushi, or Pacific
Rock salt
1 pound leeks, chopped (green parts only)
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) grated Swiss cheese
1 large egg yolk

1. With an oyster knife, shuck the oysters over a mixing bowl to catch all the juices. Reserve the bottom (cupped) shell from each oyster. Set the oysters aside. To prepare the reserved oyster shells for stuffing, rinse the shells in hot water, drain, and pat completely dry. Place a layer of coarse salt on a rimmed baking sheet and arrange the oyster shells cup side up without crowding. Set aside.

2. Add the oyster juice, leeks, and cream to a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the Swiss cheese, stir well, and allow to cool. Once cool, whisk in the egg yolk.

3. Ten minutes before cooking, preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Divide half the leek mixture among the prepared oyster shells, cover with an oyster, and divide the remaining leek mixture over the tops of the oysters. Cook 5 to 7 minutes, or until the oysters are cooked through but still tender and the sauce is slightly browned.

4. To serve, place a fresh layer of rock salt on a decorative platter or 4 individual plates. Arrange the oysters over the rock salt and serve immediately.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Photo of Braiden by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon

Braiden Rex-Johnson Shares a Recipe for Cherries in Red Wine

Good news for fresh cherry lovers! There’s been a bumper crop of the brilliant beauties in the Yakima Valley this year. With the harvest peaking early in August, there’s never been a better time to combine fresh cherries and red wine to make a simple cherry-rich dessert.

The recipe for Kay’s Cherries in Red Wine comes from none other than Kay Simon, co-owner with her husband Clay Mackey, of Chinook Wines, in Prosser, Washington, the heart of Washington cherry country. Not only is Kay a talented winemaker, but a gifted cook who uses the foods of the season to create inspired original recipes.

You’ll find her recipe for Cherry-Marinated Game Hens, along with a complete profile and photos, in my book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007).

Here, Kay marinates fresh summer cherries in a Merlot-Brandy syrup flavored with cinnamon and lemon. The cherries make a lovely topping for store-bought or homemade sponge cake or chocolate cake. Or simply enjoy them with a dollop of crème fraîche and a glass of Ruby Port, whose berry notes mirror the berry flavors in the marinated fruit.

I’m a big fan of Ruby Port, and reach for the following bottles time and again. Three Muses Ruby Port is produced by Mike Wallace, long-time winemaker and owner of Hinzerling Winery, which is located right down the road from Chinook Wines! It’s fun (and delicious!) to eat foods and drink wines produced within the same terroir.

Stepping out of the region just a bit, Wind River Cellars Port of Celilo is a luscious mouthful produced by Joel Goodwillie in the Washington-State side of the Columbia Gorge from prime Celilo Vineyard grapes.

Graham’s Six Grapes is another fave,  a multi-award-winning, reasonably priced option from Portugal that bills itself as “the everyday Port for the Vintage Port drinker.”  

Kay’s Cherries in Red Wine
Varietal: Dessert Wine (Ruby Port)
Serves 6

Ingredients:
2 cups Merlot or other dry red wine
1 cup granulated sugar
1 3-inch cinnamon stick
Zest of 1 medium lemon
Juice of 1/2 medium lemon
2 tablespoons Brandy
2 pounds fresh Bing or sweet cherries, rinsed, patted dry, and pitted
Homemade or store-bought sponge or chocolate cake
Crème fraîche
Fresh mint sprigs

Directions:
1. In a small, nonreactive saucepan combine the Merlot, sugar, cinnamon stick, lemon zest, lemon juice, and Brandy until the sugar is dissolved. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the liquid reduces slightly and reaches a light syrup-y consistency, 20 minutes. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick and cool the syrup.

2. Place the cherries in a medium nonreactive bowl with a tight lid and pour the cooled syrup over them. Cover and marinate the cherries at least 1/2 hour and up to 2 hours at room temperature, turning several times. For longer storage, place the cherries in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

3. To serve, slice the cake and position the slices in dessert bowls or wine goblets. Divide the cherries and syrup over the slices, add a dollop of crème fraîche, and top with the mint sprigs.

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Photo of Braiden by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon

The Rosé Squirt--A Perfect Seasonal Sipper

Come summer, I love a refreshing Kir with White Wine--a glass of inexpensive, not terribly flavorful white wine with a shot of Chambord, Cassis, or Raspberry Liqueur--which sweetens the drink, infuses it with an unmistakable berry perfume, and turns it a pretty sunset pink.

I like my Kir au Vin Blanc (the drink’s proper French name) served with a twist of orange plus rocks on the side. This allows me not only to cool the drink as I desire, but to add an ice cube or three to taste, especially if the bartender has a heavy hand with the berry liqueur, as often occurs.

My friend A.J. Rathbun, an Amazon.com staffer and regular contributor to Al Dente, has just released an entire book dedicated to drinks such as my beloved Kir--drinks that highlight wines embellished with liqueurs, spirits, fruit juices, herbs, and spices.

Entitled Wine Cocktails: 50 Stylish Sippers That Show Off Your Reds, Whites, and Rosés (Harvard Common Press, 2009), his latest tome makes a welcome addition to his ever-growing list of titles, which include Party Snacks!, Party Drinks!, Luscious Liqueurs, Good Spirits, and Dark Spirits, the last forthcoming this fall. 

Over a couple of Kirs at a swanky downtown Seattle hotel last month, A.J. told me his latest book was inspired by his editor at the Harvard Common Press, who enjoyed wine cocktails during her travels to France and Italy. She wondered why such sophisticated, food-friendly drinks weren’t more popular in the U.S., and contracted A.J. for the project.

It being sunny summer in Seattle, I asked A.J. for his take on the perfect seasonal sipper. Slightly rakish and ever-evocative, he described a good summer wine cocktail as one that “cools you down, has a school’s-out sort of vibe, is light on its feet, and less alcoholic than cocktails enjoyed during the cold winter months.”

His Rosé Squirt fits the bill to a “t”--bubbly, dry, refreshing--a drink A.J. enjoys “while sitting with that perfect person as the sun goes down in July.” Favorite sites for sipping the drink include his backyard with wife Natalie (on their newly remodeled deck) or on the lawn at Casa Vitiano (the couple’s favorite retreat in the Upper Tiber region of Italy).

Rosé Squirt
Serves 2

Ingredients:
Ice cubes
2 ounces maraschino liqueur
6 ounces dry rosé
Chilled club soda
2 maraschino cherries, for garnish

Directions:
1. Fill two highball glasses three-quarters full with ice cubes. Add 1 ounce maraschino liqueur and 3 ounces rosé to each glass. Stir briefly.

2. Fill each glass almost to the top with the chilled club soda. Stir again, a bit more than briefly. Drop a cherry on top and serve.

Note: Don’t be fooled into thinking that maraschino liqueur is the same as the liquid that comes with maraschino cherries in the jar, or the same as cherry syrup. Instead, it’s made from the fruit and pits of Marasca cherries, with a dry, rich flavor that has hints of both cherries and almonds.

Exerpted from Wine Cocktails, by A.J. Rathbun. (c) 2009, used by permission from The Harvard Common Press.

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Rosé Squirt photo (c), by Melissa Punch
Photo of Braiden by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon

Braiden Rex-Johnson: Tasting Fruit Wines, Plus a Recipe for Lavender Biscuits

Last month, during my first-ever visit to the state of Montana for a food-and-wine festival, several fellow food professionals and I tasted our way through 17 Montana-produced wines. Our goal? To determine the “best of the best,” so we could recommend them to customers (in the case of a wine-shop owner) and readers (me).

Interesting fact that among the five winning wines, four were made from Montana’s rich fruit resources, not grapes! We enjoyed tasting both dry and sweet versions of cherry wine (Ten Spoon Flathead Cherry Dry and Ten Spoon Sweet Mountain Cherry Dessert Wine--www.tenspoonwinery.com); mead (honey wine) laced with huckleberry juice (Hidden Legend Huckleberry Mead--www.hiddenlegendwinery.com); and a drop-dead yummy pear wine, appropriately named “Paradise” (Ten Spoon Paradise Dry Pear Wine).

Thanks to some quick Internet research, I found out that under the strictest definition, a “fruit wine” is defined as any wine that is fermented from a fruit other than grapes. But more loosely, fruit wines also include those made from sugar sources (such as honey, which results in mead), flowers (such as elderflower or dandelion), and vegetables (rhubarb or even carrots!).

Alcohol levels can range from low (in dry, slightly fruity drinking versions) to high (in sweet, intensely fruit-flavored dessert wines). But,  generally, much like conventional winemakers, most fruit winemakers strive for a good balance between acidity and residual sweetness.

Fruit wines make an interesting new option for summer sipping, and they are available across the country--everything from apple wine in Vermont to pineapple wine in Hawaii to salmonberry wine in Alaska.

The fruit-based wines from Washington State are particularly well regarded. Try producers such as China Bend Vineyards for raspberry (www.chinabend.com), Pasek Cellars for cranberry and pineapple  (www.pasekcellars.com), or Hoodsport Winery for rhubarb (www.hoodsport.com). And drink your fruit wines now; unlike grape-based wines, they are not meant for aging.

Here’s a link that will help you search out your state’s best fruit wines: www.zoominfo.com/Industries/winery/wineries-breweries/fruit-wines.htm.

Pair your choice with this summery cookie recipe that comes from my book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007). With their golden color (flecked with orange zest and lavender) and enticing orange-lavender scent and taste, these buttery, sablé-style cookies are a lovely way to end a meal.

Claybank Farm Lavender Biscuits
Varietal: Dessert Wines
Makes 36 cookies

Ingredients:
2 cups all-purpose flour 
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup (1-1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened, cut into pieces
1 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
4 teaspoons freshly grated orange zest
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon dried culinary lavender, crumbled, Pink lavender or Blue Rosea varieties recommended
1/2 cup turbinado sugar (see Cook’s Hint, below)

Directions:
1. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a mixing bowl.

2. Beat together the butter and granulated sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer on medium-high speed for about 3 minutes, or until pale and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. 

3.  Beat in the egg and vanilla, and then the orange and lemon zests and lavender. Reduce the speed to low and add the flour mixture, mixing until just combined, being careful not to overwork the dough. (The dough will look crumbly at first, but will eventually come together.)

4. Turn the dough out onto a large piece of plastic wrap or parchment paper and form it into a 12-inch log (2 inches in diameter). Roll up the dough in the plastic wrap, and chill in the refrigerator at least 4 hours, or until firm.

5. Ten minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 375 degress F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

6. Spread the turbinado sugar on a third baking sheet, unwrap the dough log,  and roll the cold log of dough in the sugar until the outside is coated. If the sugar doesn’t stick easily, pat it on and press it in evenly. Discard any remaining sugar.

7. With a heavy kitchen knife, cut the log into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Arrange the slices 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheets.

8. Bake the cookies for 10 to 14 minutes, or until they turn slightly golden around the edges.  

9. Place the baking sheets on wire racks for 2 to 3 minutes, then transfer the cookies to the wire racks and cool completely before serving.

Cook’s Hints: Don’t use too much lavender, or your cookies will taste like a bar of soap! Remember--less is more, when cooking with lavender. And turbinado sugar is a blond-colored raw sugar with a delicate molasses flavor. It’s available in the baking aisle of upscale grocery stores or at health-food stores.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Photo of Braiden by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon

Braiden Rex-Johnson: Wild King Salmon with Macerated Cherries and Smoked Almond Beurre Noisette

Salmon and the Northwest are inextricable; through the ages, one has fueled the other historically, economically, and spiritually. The yearly run of the Pacific salmon begins in May with the Chinook, or king salmon, and continues through the early fall with the return of the sockeye or red salmon, Coho or silver, pink or humpback, and chum or keta, respectively.

Salmon runs can be further divided by the rivers in which the fish return to spawn, such as the Columbia River, Copper River, or Yukon River. Come the middle of May, Northwesterners await the return of the Copper River salmon--nicknamed the “filet mignon” of salmon--like the French look forward to the release of the Nouveau Beaujolais.

We mark the projected date of the first Copper River salmon opening on our calendars, keep our fingers crossed it actually arrives then, and get daily updates from our faithful fishmongers. Word spreads as the first Alaska Airlines cargo plane loaded with the iconic fish lands at Sea-Tac Airport. Like a returning war hero, the Copper River salmon receives a red-carpet welcome, along with a flurry of news reports in the local press.

Wild salmon, and particularly premium salmon such as that from the Copper River, is a rich, meaty fish with multiple dimensions of flavor. These flavors, often described as “nutty,” “woodsy,” and “game-like,” pair particularly well with Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir, characterized by delicacy and subtlety in both flavor and texture, ranges from light and fruity when young, to full-flavored and complex as it ages.

Pair the following recipe from my book Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007) with another Northwest icon--Oregon Pinot Noir--and notice how the lush berry, earthy, and smoky flavors in the dish mirror the same aromas and flavors in the wine. Some of my favorite Oregon Pinot Noir producers include reasonably priced versions such as Willamette Valley Vineyard’s Whole Cluster Fermented Pinot Noir (which winery founder Jim Bernau characterizes as “Pinot Noir candy”) or luxury-priced Pinots from Domaine Serene and Archery Summit.

Wild King Salmon with Macerated Cherries and Smoked Almond Beurre Noisette
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Serves 4

In addition to showcasing fresh, wild salmon and Oregon Pinot Noir, this recipe (which comes from Kevin Davis, chef and co-owner of the ever-popular Steelhead Diner in Seattle’s famous Pike Place Market) also calls for another iconic Northwest ingredient--cherries. I like to use dried cherries from the Chukar Cherry Company, which has been making extraordinary dried cherry, berry, and nut products for more than 20 years in eastern Washington’s Yakima Valley.

Ingredients:
Macerated Cherries:
1 cup dried cherries (Chukar Cherry Company brand preferred)
1 cup port or Madeira

Four 8-ounce wild salmon fillets (center cuts preferred)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary, or 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled
Freshly grated zest of 1 orange
1 cup smoked almonds, lightly crushed (Blue Diamond brand preferred)

Directions:
1. To prepare the Macerated Cherries, place the dried cherries in a heatproof nonreactive bowl.  Bring the port to a boil and pour over the cherries. Cover with plastic wrap and steep for 30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate if not using immediately.

2. Prepare a medium-low fire in a gas or charcoal grill. Brush the salmon with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.  Place the fillets on the grill skin side down away from direct heat. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, turn the fish, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes more (for medium rare) or to the desired doneness.

3. While the fish is grilling, melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Cook until the butter turns brown and gives off a nutty aroma. This is called beurre noisette in French, and translates as “brown butter.”

4. Remove the skillet from the heat and add the chopped rosemary, orange zest, almonds, and Macerated Cherries (drained and patted dry) in that order, pausing between each addition and stirring gently to allow each ingredient to render it essence into the butter. Be careful when adding the first two ingredients, as the butter may sizzle and pop. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

5. Place the salmon fillets on 4 dinner plates, top with the brown butter, and serve immediately.

Cook’s Hint: Wild king or Chinook salmon has a very high fat content and will tend to flame up if cooked too fast. It’s always a good idea to have a water bottle handy, just in case. Don’t leave the grill unattended at any time throughout the cooking process. Also, Chef Kevin has an easy way to prevent overcooking your fish. Simply turn the grill off when the fish is slightly underdone; this allows the carryover heat to finish cooking the fish.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Photo of Braiden by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon

Smoked Salmon and Rosé: Pretty in Pink for Spring

A simple smoked-salmon appetizer and a pretty pink wine make the perfect pairing for the start to spring.

Our simple salmon appetizer comes from DeLaurenti Specialty Food & Wine in Seattle's Pike Place Market. This cool Italian grocery store, which also rather miraculously houses a long cheese and charcuterie counter, wine shop, and café at the bustling corner of First and Pike is Seattle’s answer to New York’s Dean & DeLuca.

Smoked Salmon Tartare makes an easy appetizer any time of year because it contains just a handful of ingredients and requires no cooking. It even keeps well in the refrigerator for a few hours before serving, so make it ahead and pull it out just before guests arrive.

Pat McCarthy, the affable owner of DeLaurenti, suggests serving his recipe with a slightly chilled dry Rosé. Good ones include Barnard Griffin 2008 Rosé of Sangiovese (Washington), Revenant 2007 Malbec Rosé (California), and just about anything from the Provençal region of France, where eighty percent of the wine produced is Rosé, according to the Go-Provence website. 

For festive occasions, consider a Rosé (pink) sparkling wine such as Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Noirs (Washington), Argyle Winery Brut Rosé (Oregon), Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut Rosé (California) or Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rosé (France).

Smoked Salmon Tartare
Varietal: Rosé or Sparkling Wine
Serves: 4 as an appetizer

Ingredients:
1/2 pound thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon (Gerard & Dominique brand preferred)
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon capers, well drained
1 to 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 tablespoons minced fresh chives
1 tablespoon minced fresh lemon thyme, or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled, plus 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Crostini (recipe follows) or mild-flavored crackers

Directions:
1. On a cutting board, stack the salmon slices several slices high and cut into 1/4-inch cubes. Using a rocking motion, slice across the cubes until they are slightly smaller, but not puréed, forming 1/8-inch cubes; the salmon should still have some texture. In a medium nonreactive mixing bowl, gently stir together the salmon, olive oil, capers, and 1 teaspoon of the lemon juice. Taste and add more lemon juice if needed.

2. Add half the chives and half the lemon thyme and season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Divide the tartare among 4 small ramekins or ring molds with bottoms. Place a salad plate over the ramekin or ring mold, then invert and turn the tartare out onto the plate. If using ring molds without bottoms, place the mold on the plate, spoon in the tartare, and remove the mold. Sprinkle the remaining chives and lemon thyme over the tartare, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the flavors to meld and the tartare to chill.

4. Serve with the Crostini.

Crostini

Ingredients:
1 narrow loaf French or Italian bread, sliced 1/4-inch thick

Directions:
1. Preheat the broiler. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and place 3 to 4 inches from the heat source. Broil 1 to 2 minutes on each side, until golden brown and crispy. Remove from the oven and serve warm or at room temperature.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley) by Braiden Rex-Johnson. 

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Photo of Braiden by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon

Braiden Rex-Johnson's Tips for Exploring Georgian Wines

As a worthwhile (and fun!) New Year’s resolution, I suggested we all experiment with wines from different regions. Today, I’d like to share my first “find,” an exciting “new” wine region: Georgia.

Now I’m not talking about the all-American, peach-blossom, “Georgia on My Mind” kind of Georgia, but the republic in the former Soviet Union that made headlines last August when Russia invaded it.

In the perfect world, we’d all know a lot about Georgian wines, since archeological research has dug up evidence of viticulture in the Caucasus region as far back as 7,000 years. Some experts even feel the word “wine” comes from the Georgian word, “gvino.”

The country also boasts a whopping 500 grape varietals! Leading whites include Katsiteli, Mtsvane, Tsinandali, and Kisi. Saperavi is the leading red, and sparkling wines and Brandy are also produced.

Something that sets apart wines produced in eastern Georgia from most other wine regions in the world is the use of kvevri, or qvevri, for fermentation. The large earthenware vessels, a.k.a. amphorae, are buried in the ground, sealed, and the wine within is left for several months to mature naturally. The kvevri add dark highlights to white wines (often giving them a Sherry-colored tinge) and Old World aromas of earth and musk. They are really intriguing wines to try.

It’s only within the past couple of years that Georgian wines were available outside of Georgia and the former Soviet Union. Now, with a broader global network, Georgian wines are beginning to make their mark around the world.

Georgian cuisine is legendary. It includes fresh, seasonal vegetables (many organically grown) and wild herbs; pomegranate-and-vegetable patés; Georgian cheese bread; sour-plum sauces; grilled meats; and meat dumplings. Here in the States, I’ve enjoyed Georgian-inspired dishes such as Chicken Skewers with Walnut-Pomegranate Sauce; Green Bean Salad with Walnuts, Cilantro, and Pomegranate; and Polenta Cakes with Garlic Eggplant.

For home cooks who want to try their hand with Georgian cuisine, here’s a simple sauce that is best served over sautéed white fish (such as halibut or cod) or grilled, hearty fish (such as albacore tuna, swordfish, or sturgeon). It’s equally tempting when partnered with simply prepared chicken, duck, or game birds, and one of the Georgian wines recommended below.

Time to give thanks (gmadlobt) and cheers (gaumarjos) to the joys of Georgian wines!

Georgian Walnut Sauce (Baje)

Ingredients:
1-3/4 cups water
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
1/2 pound (about 2 cups) walnuts
2 cloves garlic, peeled and halved
1 jalapeño pepper, stem removed and coarsely chopped
1-1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
1-1/2 teaspoons ground fenugreek
1-1/2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1-1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt

Directions:
1. In a small saucepan, combine 1 cup of the water and the saffron and bring to a boil. Stir to dissolve the saffron, remove from the heat, and allow the liquid to cool.
2. Place the walnuts, garlic, jalapeño, coriander, and fenugreek in a food processor or blender and pulse until a paste forms, scraping down the sides of the container as needed to redistribute the mixture. Add the vinegar and process briefly.
3. With the machine running, pour in the saffron mixture and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Taste and add the remaining salt, if desired. The sauce should be thick; if necessary add the additional 3/4 cup water 1 tablespoon at a time until the desired texture is achieved.
4. Use immediately, or pour the sauce into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.

Makes about 2 cups

Recommended Georgian Wines:

• Mildiani Family Winery 2006 Katsiteli: A white-wine blend of 80% Katsiteli and 20% Mtsvane (a combination also known as Tsinandali, which is considered the pride of Georgian wines), Katsiteli is pale straw in color with hints of peach; boasts a full, aromatic nose; sweet aromas and flavors of new-mown grass, almonds, and vanilla; and a hint of sweetness on the long, balanced finish. Definitely a keeper!
• Vinoterra Winery 2006 Kisi: Dark straw and clear in color, Kisi is fermented in kvevri and matured in oak, which results in a wine redolent with nutty, dried-apricot aromas and flavors. It finishes clean, with just a hint of spice.
• Vinoterra Winery 2003 Saperavi: Georgia’s noble red varietal, Saperavi, is served up bold and bone-dry after initial fermentation in kvevri and final fermentation in oak. Even with just 13% alcohol, this deeply hued, richly textured wine packs a punch with abundant dark-berry and pomegranate flavors and wisps of smoke and coffee on the finish.
• Mildiani Family Winery 2005 Saperavi: Lighter on the palate than Vinoterra’s Saperavi and also clocking in at 13% alcohol, Mildiani’s version offers brighter fruit (sour cherries and rhubarb) and a hint of pepper, while still remaining bone-dry and complex.

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Photo of Braiden by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon

Braiden Rex-Johnson's Valentine's Treat: A Savory Blue Cheesecake

A box of chocolates and a bottle of expensive red wine is a classic Valentine’s Day pairing. Yet I’ve never understood quite why. Milk chocolate contains a lot of dairy products (cream), which can coat your palate...never a good thing when trying to appreciate a quality wine. Meanwhile, dark chocolate is tannic and often a bit bitter. Red wine also contains tannins. So when you take a bite of chocolate and follow it with a sip of red wine, the tannins collide and clash, creating a veritable train wreck in your mouth.

So this Valentine’s Day, I urge you to think outside the box (of chocolates) and make a special treat for your sweetie. Blue Cheesecake comes from my seventh book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007). You can serve this lusty cheesecake as a rustic appetizer with crostini and crackers (shareable finger food--yum!). But I like slicing it into narrow wedges to form a savory dessert or cheese course. Drizzle with honey (the perfect prelude to Valentine’s Day “activities”) or accompany with sensuous seasonal fruits such as figs, pears, or raspberries.

Perhaps the best news for wine lovers is that Blue Cheesecake pairs well with pretty much any type of wine, be it red (such as Syrah or Zinfandel), white (think Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier), Sherry (from Fino to Amontillado), Port (either Tawny or Ruby), or stickies (Late-Harvest or Ice Wine).

Blue Cheesecake
From Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining
Serves 12 to 16

Ingredients:
1-1/2 cups water
1/2 cup medium-grind cornmeal
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon dried basil, crumbled (optional)
1-1/2 teaspoons herbes de Provence, crumbled
1-1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
Three 8-ounce packages cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 pound Oregon Blue Vein, Oregonzola, Gorgonzola, Roquefort, or other high-quality blue cheese, cut into chunks, at room temperature
3 large eggs
1/4 cup (1 ounce) freshly shredded Parmesan cheese
1 head garlic, cloves separated and roasted (See Cook’s Hint, below)
1/2 cup whole hazelnuts, pine nuts, or almonds, toasted
Crostini or crackers, for serving, optional

Directions:
1. Bring the water to a boil in a small saucepan. Slowly stir in the cornmeal, stirring in one direction to avoid lumps, then add the garlic, basil (if using), herbes de Provence, and salt. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until smooth and creamy, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as necessary so the polenta doesn’t overcook or bubble up and splatter, 12 to 15 minutes.

2. While the polenta is cooking, place the cream cheese and blue cheese in a large mixing bowl. Add the eggs one at a time and mix by hand (if you are very strong!) or beat with an electric mixer until the eggs are thoroughly incorporated. Set aside.

3. Arrange the oven rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Lightly oil a 9-inch springform pan or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

4. When the polenta is done, remove it from the heat and stir in the Parmesan cheese. Let cool for 5 minutes. With a rubber spatula, press the polenta into the bottom of the prepared springform pan and set aside.

5. Pour the reserved cheese filling evenly over the polenta crust. Tap the pan lightly on the counter to remove any air bubbles. Squeeze the garlic cloves from their skins and arrange them around the perimeter of the pan at equal distances. Sprinkle the hazelnuts evenly in the center of the cheesecake.

6. Place the cheesecake on a baking sheet to catch any drips, transfer to the oven, and bake for 1 hour, or until the cake springs back when lightly jiggled and the internal temperature on an instant-read thermometer reaches 160 degrees F. Cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour.

7. To serve, release and remove the sides of the springform pan. Serve the cheesecake warm or at room temperature, cut into slices as an appetizer or spread onto crostini or crackers for a more rustic look. The cheesecake can be covered and kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 week (its flavors meld and deepen the longer it sits). If serving from the refrigerator, slice and warm it in a 350 degree F oven or microwave briefly before serving.

Cook’s Hint: To roast individual cloves of garlic, preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Remove as much skin as possible from each clove, place in a small baking dish without crowding (a pie plate also works well for this), cover tightly with aluminum foil, and bake until the garlic is very tender and easily squeezed from the skin, 35 minutes.

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Photo of Braiden by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon

Blue Cheesecake photo by Jackie Johnston at Wine Country Creations.

Shake Up Your Wine-Drinking Routine!

It’s said that most people cook the same six or eight recipes time and time again. And I’d bet my bottom buck that many wine lovers fall into the same sort of rut, routinely reaching for the same varieties and brands of wines when they’re at the wine shop,  grocery store, or buying online.

So as we enter the New Year (Happy January 1, 2009, by the way!), I’d like to propose you shake up your wine-drinking regime. Here are six tips to add variety and spice to 2009. . .

Try a new varietal once a week. We all know and love Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. But what about some of those unsung heroes such as Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s best-selling white wine? Or Rhône varietals such as Roussanne, Marsanne, or Mourvedre? Or interesting reds such as Tempranillo, Lemberger, or Dolcetto? Consider adding these to your repertoire.

Sample wines from a region unfamiliar to you. California Cab is a standard bearer, but why not head up the coast and try a robust, reasonably priced Cabernet Sauvignon from Washington State? Same with Chardonnay. . .experiment with Oregon Chardonnays (elegant wines that normally aren’t heavily oaked) or Washington Chards (which run the gamut from unoaked to creamy and mouth-filling).

Embrace wines from around the world. Take a trip across the globe and try a refreshing Vinho Verde (literally--“green wine”) from Portugal, a Super Tuscan from Italy, or a sassy Shiraz from Australia.

Buy high-quality wine glasses. It’s common knowledge that a good wine glass can enhance the wine-drinking experience. Riedel, Spiegelau, and Schott Zwiesel are respected makers, whose glasses are designed in special shapes for each varietal so that the sensory notes of each wine are enhanced. Also consider Eisch Glaskultur’s Breathable Glasses. Tall and sturdy--even dishwasher safe--the glasses purportedly aerate a wine in just 10 minutes equal to what it would take to accomplish within two to four hours in a decanter.

Think inside the box. Boxed wines, bota-box wines, cask wines, premium-cask wines--whatever you call them--have gotten a bad wrap through the years, but have seen great improvement lately. With reasonable price points, environmentally correct packaging (less recycling), and long lives (up to 30 days after opening), these wines present a wonderful alternative for everyday drinking or for those who (for health purposes) want just a single glass of wine with dinner.

Rethink organic wines. These wines were also maligned early on, and rightfully so, as they were often thin, bitter, and plagued by off flavors. Today, thanks to improved grape resources and production techniques, some of these wines stand head and shoulders with their non-organic counterparts. And like boxed wines, they are gentler on the environment. 

Of course, by now I hope you are inspired to create your own wine-drinking innovations for 2009. Cheers to a medley of fresh, creative wine options in the New Year!

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Photo by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon

A Bubbly Brunch for the Holidays

During the holidays, many of us fret over what to serve our families and friends during special dinners--be it Christmas, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, or even New Year’s Eve. But not many cooks plan and create something tasty and innovative for holiday breakfast or brunch.

That’s where the GoldLeaf Breakfast, a recipe from my seventh book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, comes in handy. A scrumptious blend of buttery scrambled eggs wrapped in silky cold-smoked salmon (such as Nova or lox), all drizzled with dill-scented crème fraîche, the dish pairs perfectly with a good-quality Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio, but becomes especially festive when served with your favorite Champagne (or pretty-in-pink Rosé Champagne!) or sparkling wine. 

GoldLeaf Breakfast 
Suggested Wine Varietal: Pinot Gris, Champagne, or Sparkling Wine
Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 cup crème fraîche
2 tablespoons minced fresh dill, plus extra sprigs for garnish
1/2 pound thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon
12 large eggs
Pinch of kosher salt
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 ounce domestic (trout or paddlefish) caviar

Directions:
1. Ten minutes before serving, remove the crème fraîche from the refrigerator and stir in the minced dill.
2. Line the inside of 4 small ramekins or custard cups with plastic wrap. Line each bowl evenly with smoked salmon, covering all areas completely, but being careful not to layer the salmon too thickly. Cover the ramekins loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
3. Whisk the eggs, salt, and pepper together in a large mixing bowl. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat until it foams. Add the eggs and cook, stirring frequently to allow the eggs to cook, until medium-firm, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat. Immediately fill the salmon-lined ramekins with the eggs, pressing down firmly to mold the eggs.
4. To serve, place a dinner plate over each ramekin, hold the plate firmly over the ramekin, turn it over, and unmold, removing and discarding the plastic wrap. Drizzle each with 1/4 cup of the dilled crème fraîche and 1/4 ounce of the caviar. Garnish with a sprig of dill and serve immediately.

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Photo by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon

Check out Braiden’s favorite kitchen products in the Kitchen & Home Gift Guide.

Chocolate Cake + Red Wine = A Special Holiday Treat

This intensely chocolate-y cake, which comes from my latest book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, is the perfect holiday dessert--elegant, easy to make, and foolproof. It even freezes well, so make an extra to have on hand for when unexpected holiday guests (or even Santa Claus on Christmas Eve!) drop in.

Serve it with a dollop of crème fraîche and extra cocoa powder sprinkled on top. And of course, don’t forget to crack open a bottle of Lemberger, whose bright fruit and spicy finish pair so well with the red wine, chipotle pepper, and cinnamon in the cake. Merlot or Zinfandel make other good wine-pairing possibilities if Lemberger is difficult to find.

Chipotle Chocolate Cake
Suggested Wine Varietal: Lemberger
Serves 8 to 12

Ingredients:
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup Dutch-processed cocoa, plus extra for sprinkling on the cake
2 teaspoons baking soda
1-1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground chipotle
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 cups water
3/4 cup canola or vegetable oil
3 tablespoons red wine
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
Confectioners’ sugar, for sprinkling on the cake

Directions:
1. Preheat the oven to 350° F. In a large mixing bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda, salt, chipotle, and cinnamon. In a small mixing bowl, mix together the water, oil, red wine, and vanilla.
2. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, add the wet ingredients, and stir just until combined. Do not overmix, or the cake will be tough.
3. Pour the batter into an ungreased 9-by-12-inch baking pan and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick or wooden skewer inserted in the middle comes out with just a few crumbs remaining.
4. Cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes, loosen the sides of the cake with a knife, and turn the cake out onto a wire rack to cool completely. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar and additional cocoa just before slicing and serving.

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Photo by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon

Check out Braiden’s favorite kitchen products in the Kitchen & Home Gift Guide.

Pork Tenderloin: An Elegant and Easy Holiday Entrée

Easy on the cook, yet elegant enough for company is the kind of holiday entrée that keeps everyone happy. This recipe from my most recently released book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, fits the bill. It makes the perfect centerpiece for a holiday dinner or a lovely addition to a seasonal buffet table.

For fun and variety, try sprinkling the sliced, sauced pork with fresh chopped herbs such as sage, thyme, or parsley. Then serve the silky sliced tenderloin with your favorite Merlot, and toast to the holidays!

Black Forest Pork Tenderloin
Suggested Wine Varietal: Merlot
Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 (1-pound) pork tenderloins, trimmed of fat and silver skin
2 teaspoons kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups dry red wine, preferably good-quality Merlot
1 cup cherry preserves, Chukar Cherry Company brand preferred
1 tablespoon water, optional
2 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch, optional

Directions:
1. Heat a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil. Lightly sprinkle the pork on all sides with the salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, add the pork and cook 4 to 5 minutes, turning with tongs to brown on all sides.

2. Reduce the heat and continue cooking the meat for 25 to 30 minutes, turning occasionally, or until still slightly pink at the center when cut with a paring knife. Transfer the meat to a large plate and tent with aluminum foil to keep warm.

3. Add the wine and preserves to the pan, scraping up the brown bits in the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon or heat-proof rubber spatula. Bring to a simmer and cook 7 to 10 minutes, or until the liquid reduces slightly. For a thicker sauce, mix the water and cornstarch and add to the pan. Stir well and simmer for 1 minute, or until thick and shiny.

4. To serve, slice the tenderloin and spoon the cherry-wine sauce over the meat.

--Braiden Rex-Johnson

Check out Braiden’s favorite kitchen products in the Kitchen & Home Gift Guide.