Al Dente

The Best Cocktails and Food I Never Had

I’m guessing this has happened to everyone (except those lucky few who somehow manage to have extra hours in the day to fit in every possible option. I dislike those people). You see a special cocktail or food event, or menu that’s one night only, or even pass a restaurant that looks scrumptious on vacation, but you just don’t have the time to take advantage of it, no matter how super-fabulous it is in your mind. And then you think about it, or hear about it, and wish you could go back in time and re-organize your schedule.

Recently, this happened to me and I’m still dwelling on it. See, here in Seattle, two of the top chefs in the city, Brian McCracken and Dana Tough (co-owners of both Spur and Tavern Law, a couple of Seattle’s must-visit cocktail and food spots by-the-way) combined with a number of top bartenders, all under the banner of one of my all-time nostalgia inducing favorite bourbons, Maker’s Mark, to put out an exclusive evening of unbelievable food and cocktails. On August 11th. And I had to miss it. And (to make me even sadder and my mouth water even more) I have the menu and some pics. So, I’m making you share in my sadness (unless you were there. In which case, go reminisce giddily and leave us to pout). Here was the lineup:

Course One
Bartender: Anu Apte of Rob Roy
Drink:  M3
1-1/2 ounce Maker’s Mark
1 ounce Fino Sherry
Just over 1/4 ounce maple syrup
Dash grapefruit bitters
Food:  Foie Gras Torchon:
wild pear, molasses, sherry

Course Two
Bartender: Nathan Weber of Tavern Law
Drink: French Prince of Bourbon
1-1/2 ounce Maker’s Mark
3/4 ounce grapefruit juice
1/2 ounce Dolin Blanc vermouth
1/2 ounce rosemary syrup
2 dashes Jerry Thomas bitters
Dash old time aromatic bitters
Food: Sockeye salmon:
fennel, onion, purslane.
 
 Course Three
Bartender: Benjamin Perri of Zig Zag
Drink: A Lick and a Promise
1-1/2 ounce Maker’s Mark
1/2 ounce Cynar
1/4 ounce Tuaca
1/4 ounce Cherry Heering
Dash mole bitters
Lemon twist, for garnish
Food:  Sous Vide Pork Belly:
sunchoke, bing cherry.
 
 Course Four
Bartender: Craig Schoen of Spur
Drink: The Long Hand of Sadness
1-1/4 ounce makers
1/4 ounce Lovage gomme
1/4 ounce Averna amaro
2 dashes aromatic bitters
White pepper/brown sugar rim
Food: Waygu Beef Brisket:
coffee, corn, arugula.
 
 Course Five
Bartender: Marley Tomic-Beard of Spur
Drink: The Pine Box
1-1/2 ounce makers
1 ounce smoked pineapple juice
3/4 ounce ver jus
1/4 ounce Campari
1/4 ounce Luxardo marascino
Grilled pineapple, for garnish
Food: Amaretto Sponge Cake:
smoked almond, pineapple, yogurt.

Now if that line-up doesn’t have you glassy-eyed with culinary and cocktail desire, maybe you don’t have taste buds? If you’ve missed a dinner that rivals this one, well, then I pity you. And hope you feel the same for me after missing the above amazing evening.

--A.J. Rathbun

Photos Copyright 2010, Chad Pryor

The World’s Fastest Human Beer Opener

Andrew Bohrer is one of the best bartenders I know, and currently manages the bar at Seattle’s Mistral Kitchen and writes the (sometimes PG 13) awesome behind-the-bar blog Cask Strength. He may also be the fastest beer bottle opener in the world. In the below video--the sound’s a bit low, so turn it up--he actually challenges all other bartenders, and then shows off (the real opening-of-beer is at about the 32 second mark) how fast he really is. And he’s pretty amazingly fast. So, if you think you’re faster, step up, make a video, and let him and us know about it.

--A.J. Rathbun

I’m Turning Japanese (Cocktails) This Summer

While I love the 1980 hit (loosely using that term) “I’m Turning Japanese” by the Vapors, this summer I’m not just singing the refrain, but drinking it, thanks to Yuri Kato’s tasty and well-written cocktail book: Japanese Cocktails: Mixed Drinks with Saké, Shuchu, Whisky, and More (Chronicle Books, 2009). Not only is the book brimming with recipes using Japanese and other ingredients in drinks such as the Tokyo M&M, the Ajisai, which means “hydrangea” in Japanese, and the Enoshima Swizzle, it also is bubbling over with bits of history about Japan and Japanese drinks, fun and entertaining facts about towns and places in Japan, and cultural information (in the book, for example, you can find out what “love hotels” are, and then drink a cocktail named after them--with that special someone, if the mood takes you). And though the recipes do use items that will be new to many, I haven’t had a problem finding any of the ingredients used in the book.

I think, though, that the best part of Japanese Cocktails is how Yuri writes in an entertaining, but still graceful, style, which matches well with the nature of the cocktails in the book. This makes the book a delightful read as well as a resource. The Japanese cocktail style is to have drinks that aren’t quite as strong as many found in the U.S., and this lighter nature of the drinks makes them ideal for summer, when you don’t want to be weighed down. This is why I’m turning Japanese at the outdoor bar this season--and why you should, too. To get you started, here’s a recipe for the Lady Godzilla.

Ingredients:
4 to 5 fresh mint leaves
1/4 ounce umeshu
Ice cubes
1-1/2 ounces white tequila
1 ounce Midori melon liqueur
1/4 ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice
Fresh mint sprig for garnish

Directions:
1. Add the mint leaves and the umeshu to a cocktail shaker. Using a muddler or long wooden spoon, muddle well.

2. Fill the cocktail shaker halfway full with ice cubes. Add the tequila, Midori, and lemon juice. Shake well.

3. Strain into a cocktail glass (chilled if possible). Garnish with the mint sprig.

A Note: Umeshu is a Japanese liqueur made from ume fruits, a base spirit, and sugar. Yuri has a handy recipe for it in the book, or you can look for it online if you can’t find it in a nearby liquor store or Asian market.

Take Back Summer with DeLonghi’s Lemon Gelato

Oh, the loveliness of summer: sunshine, long days, warm weather, and vacations. But it’s a dangerous beauty. Why? Because all these long, hot, sunny days lead to an immense craving for ice cream and its Italian cousin, gelato. Not that eating lots of these chilly treats is a bad thing on its own, but the amount of dollars you’ll spend at your local gelateria or ice cream shoppe (and yes, you should only stop at "ice cream shoppes" and never "ice cream shops") is enough that you’ll spend too much before vacation even starts, or before summer really gets rolling.

Which is why DeLonghi’s newish GM6000 gelato maker is a summertime daydream. Sure, it’s easy to use (just put the ingredients in--sometimes after a little mixing--and it does the rest of the work), and it comes with a handy and tastiness-packed recipe book to get you started, and it’s easy to clean as well, but the real key is how it allows you to serve genuine and genuinely delicious gelato at home. It makes enough in one batch, and makes it quickly enough, that you can have gelato for the whole neighborhood before long, if you want (you’ll need to store some in the freezer, but you’ll enjoy the cool breeze that comes with opening the freezer door). My favorite so far is lemon (after trying it, peach, Mexican chocolate, oatmeal raisin cookie, and plain chocolate), which makes some sense since lemon and pistachio are my favorite gelato flavors normally. To make the lemon even more of a treat, I saved my lemon rinds after juicing some lemons, and put the rinds in the freezer. Then, I stuffed each with lemon gelato and served them up that way--they were a huge hit (see pic below for actual evidence). Here’s the recipe, straight from the above-mentioned recipe book that comes with the gelato maker.

Ingredients:
1/2 cup of lemon juice
Zest of 2 lemons, chopped
1/2 cup water
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup cream

Directions:
1. Place the water, sugar, filtered lemon juice, and lemon zest together in a bowl and mix until the sugar is dissolved.

2. Add the cream and milk and pour into the gelato bowl. The gelato will be ready in about 40 minutes and you will obtain 6-to-8 portions.

5 Un-Essential but Cool Grill Tools

The outdoor cooking is in full swing: are you sure you have all the grill tools and accessories to make your backyard the tastiest on the block? Or, do you just want to invest in some time-savers? Or, are you just addicted to grill gadgets? If you answered "no" to the first question or "yes" to one of the next two, the following are for you (and your grill).

Progressive International The Perfect Burger Press
Make perfect burgers, uniform in size and shape, every time with this 3-piece burger press. The set includes a removable dimple insert, a non-skid base, and comfort-grip pusher. The insert creates an impression in the center of the burger, allowing it to cook more evenly and faster. Use the press without the insert to create all kinds of seafood burgers. Safe to clean in the dishwasher, the burger press makes a great gift for novices and seasoned chefs alike. See more.

Tom Douglas 2-Piece Stainless-Steel Grill-Wok with Removable Lid
This two-piece frying pan, ideal for outdoor grilling, is constructed of durable stainless-steel mesh and comes with a matching, removable lid. The pan promotes excellent searing for a delicious smoky flavor while keeping food--even small veggies and shrimp--from falling into the fire. The long, stainless-steel handle affords a secure grip and features a hanging loop. To add ingredients to the pan, simply press the lever on the basket’s handle and lift the lid. Replace the lid and safely toss any combination of meat, seafood, and vegetables while grilling. See more.

OXO Good Grips Corn Peeler
The OXO Good Grips Corn Peeler safely peels kernels off the cob with a quick and easy motion. Kernels fall directly into a bowl or onto a cutting board. Blade position ensures perfectly cut kernels every time and removes close to 5 rows off the cob at one time. The durable stainless steel serrated vertical blade is ergonomic and allows for easy and effective peeling like a traditional peeler, and the included Blade Cover protects blade and hands when not in use. It’s also dishwasher safe for easy clean up. See more.

Maverick Remote-Check Wireless Thermometer With 2 Probes
Cooking a dinner-party roast, holiday turkey, or backyard-barbecue pork loin to precisely the proper temperature without fuss is a snap with this thermometer. You can even monitor two foods (beef and lamb, for instance) simultaneously, since two stainless-steel probes are included, each 6 inches long and each connected to a 39-inch stainless-steel wire. Here's how it works: program the tool (two AA batteries included) by selecting either "beef," "veal," "lamb," "pork," "chicken," or "turkey." Then program to rare, medium-rare, medium, or well-done. The monitor displays the proper temperature--which can be altered by pressing a button. See more.

Style Asia Electric Grill-Cleaning Brush with 3 LED Lights
This electric grill-cleaning brush quickly removes charred grease and residue. It has a sturdy ABS plastic and silicone construction that withstands heat up to 600 degrees Fahrenheit, and a powerful 12-volt high-torque motor. The three bright LED lights illuminate all messy grill areas, and help cleaning up when the sun’s gone down. There’s a protective shield for safety, a hanging loop for storing, and the brush head removes for cleaning. See more.

--A.J. Rathbun

Getting to the Right Weight

Okay, I’m not as calorie conscious as many, but I have been struggling with getting accurate measurements lately. Especially with baking, as I was recently told by a baking pro (who’s also a pal) that using weight measurement with flour (as well as other dry ingredients) is much more accurate than using volume measurements. This makes sense when you think about settling rates and such, but really, I just wanted to upgrade my baking skills, and not think about the science of it all (by the way, if anyone disagrees with this baking premise, I’d be interested to hear about it and why). So, I picked up a digital scale, from Oxo. When making my pick I followed a couple of criteria: first, I wanted it to be easy to store (I have too many kitchen toys and not enough counter space); second, I wanted it to be easy to read; third, I wanted it to be easy to clean. The 5-pound Oxo Good Grips scale I went with hit on all my qualifiers, as it’s not too large and can store vertically and horizontally, is a simple swipe to clean, and is especially easy to read thanks to the super handy pull out display. Now, I find myself liking it enough that maybe I’ll not only use it to bake, but to diet, too (wait, who am I kidding with that. I’ll probably just stick to baking).

--A.J. Rathbun

Summertime is Berry Bible and Halibut with Strawberry-Papaya Relish Time

Since the bushes are starting to show some color with ripening berries, I’m super excited to discover Janie Hibler’s  book The Berry Bible (AmazonEncore, 2010). The book is packed with her berry-licious recipes and research from twenty years of world travel, where she worked to find the best berries and to uncover creative ways to use them.  The book starts with a chapter on health benefits, then moves to an A-Z guide of berries--where to find them, their history, how to pick/store them, and cooking notes, then a chapter on “Berry Basic,” which includes simple syrups, pureeing, how to pick, wash, and store berries for year-round enjoyment, even how to remove berry stains. And then the book delivers 175 plus recipes. But don’t just listen to me, here’s a quote from Janie herself:

“Over the years I have collected an entire file drawer full of berry recipes. Some are my own creations; others have come from my travels, family, friends, chefs, and neighbors. I picked out only the best for this book, and they have all been retested by me and then again by a group of testers. Like all recipes, these are meant to inspire you in the kitchen and bring immeasurable pleasure to your table. Enjoy!"
 
Curried Halibut with Strawberry-Papaya Relish

When halibut is roasted using extremely high heat, it becomes surprisingly butter textured and stays perfectly moist. You will need a cast-iron skillet or heavy baking dish that can be preheated safely in a 500 degree Fahrenheit oven. The halibut absorbs heat from both the preheated pan and the oven. The high heat immediately breaks down the fish’s connective tissue, producing moist, buttery flakes that melt in your mouth. This is an unusually quick recipe if you make the relish ahead of time. It will keep for 3 to 4 days covered in the refrigerator. I serve a simple green salad to accompany the fish.

Makes 4 servings

 

For the Strawberry-Papaya Relish

Ingredients:
1/2 cup chopped fresh strawberries
1/2 cup peeled, seeded, and chopped papaya
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 tablespoon chopped red onion
1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon mild olive oil
Pinch of coarse salt

For the Curried Halibut

Ingredients:
1-1/2 pounds fresh halibut, trimmed of skin and cut into 4 pieces
Curry powder
Coarse salt
2 to 3 teaspoons canola oil
One 13-1/2-ounce can reduced-fat coconut milk
6 cups cooked basmati rice
8 fresh cilantro sprigs

Directions:
1. Put a cast-iron skillet in the oven and preheat to 500 degrees Fahrenheit.

2. Toss all the relish ingredients together and set aside. Meanwhile, bring the fish to room temperature.

3. Generously season the halibut with curry powder and coarse salt. Heat the canola oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot, pan-sear the fish on both sides until golden brown, about 45 seconds per side. Transfer the fish to the hot skillet in the oven and roast for 6 more minutes, until the fish is barely cooked throughout.

4. An instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of each piece should read 135 degrees Fahrenheit, and the flesh will feel firm (not sink in) when pressed with your finger. The fish will continue to cook when it comes out of the oven. Transfer the fish to a warm platter and cover to keep warm.

5. Heat 4 wide pasta bowls.

6. Pour the coconut milk into the hot skillet over medium-low heat. Gently scrape the bottom of the pan to release the caramelized cooked bits as the milk heats. Season the milk with a pinch of salt if needed.

7. Divide the rice among the bowls. Lay the fish on top and ladle the coconut milk over all. Put a spoonful of the relish on top of the fish and sprinkle the cilantro leaves over all. Serve immediately.

I’m Making Bellinis on Martha Stewart Radio for Betsy Karetnick’s Birthday

Betsy Karetnick is my favorite radio hostess (and host, for that matter). She currently hosts the “Morning Living” and “Everyday Food” shows for Martha Stewart Sirius Radio, and every time I’m in New York City I try and stop in to make a few drinks with her on the air and talk to callers about parties, cocktails, and anything else entertaining under the sun. She’s one of those hosts who really listens to callers, as well as having her own great ideas, and though she actually started as a finance journalist and a host of PBS’ “That Money Show,” she's now a full-on food and entertaining force. Best of all, it’s her birthday this Thursday, the 17th, and I’m going to be in New York, so I’m stopping by the studio to make her some birthday Bellinis during the “Everyday Food” show at 12:15 EST, using the delicious Perfect Puree white peach puree. If you have Sirius Radio, be sure to listen in (at noon), and hey, even call in if you feel like saying howdy. If you don’t have Sirius Radio, you can always sign up for a free trial and see what you think (and call in and say howdy). If you absolutely can’t get near a radio, then at least make a Bellini on Friday. Here’s the recipe (adapted a bit) from Good Spirits.

Ingredients:
2 ounce Perfect Puree white peach puree
4 or 5 ounces Prosecco
White peach slice for garnish

Directions:
1. Add two ounces of the peach puree to a Champagne flute. Slowly, while stirring, add the Prosecco. You must add the Prosecco slowly, integrating it into the somewhat removed peach puree throughout or a peach puree sludge might gather at the bottom of the glass.

2. Garnish with the white peach slice and a toast to birthdays and Betsy.

--A.J. Rathbun

Find Five-Star Customer Grilling Favorites

Hard to believe, but it’s already June, and that means one thing: it’s time to get the grill going (or if, like me, you’re in Seattle and it’s still raining, time to pretend the grill is going while grilling inside). If you’re grilling arrangement needs an update, or if you just want to outfit yourself in style, here are some grilling and barbecuing tools that have been favorites with Amazon.com customers.

OXO Good Grips Digital Leave-In Meat Thermometer: OXO does it again
  Daniel C. Clark: I am an extensive user of meat thermometers. I have bought more than a few over the years. This thermometer stores its probe inside and wraps the cord around it. Therefore, it does not make a mess in the drawer. Also, the cord is wrapped in a rubber instead of the metal on traditional thermometers. The meat doneness is available in USDA or Chef's preference (note, you should always use the Chefs setting). The timer function is easy to use and can count up or down. Like always, OXO has taken a traditional kitchen product and greatly improved it. (read the full review)

Tom Douglas Stainless-Steel Pronged Kebob Skewers, Set of 2: Best KeBob Skewers Around!
  Javajunki: My other half laughed at my excitement over these super nifty kebob skewers...but I had the last laugh after he tried them for the fist time. Sure, shish-kebobs are not exactly a high excitement item nor are they something you prepare every day of the week...which is why it's important to have a good set of kebob skewers available - make it fun rather than frustrating.  This set does exactly that. Well designed to address the most common kebob problems including...
1. Rotation Rage - y'know what I'm talking about. Twirling tomatoes, precarious pineapple chunks and mushroom that slide in slow motion right off the skewer. All fixed thanks to dual prongs.
2. Short Stacks - face it, short stacks are a mans worst nightmare. Few things are worse than a lot of veggies with tiny chunks of meat...much less when the skewer is only a few inches long. Full sized skewers assure a hearty meal.
3. Pain - Whether burning your had on metal handles or stabbing yourself while trying to tug/chew food off the skewer . . . (read the full review)

Charmed Life Products 6-Piece Grill Charms Set, The Steak Collection: Must have
  Gary G. Flesher: These Grill Charms are an absolute must if cooking meat. We use them for Steaks to know which one is well done (like the wife likes them) and which one is rare (for me). We no longer have to cut through the steak to find out which is which AND the chef doesn't have to remember which steak is supposed to be rare, medium or well done. Charm the steak and know how to cook that piece of meat.We also like to try different rubs. Some like spicy and others like mild. Now we can rub it, charm it and everyone knows if a certain meat is spicy or mild. The same goes for hot and mild sausage. The charms stay in the meat and identify it. (read the full review)

Weber Professional-Grade Stainless-Steel 3-Piece Barbeque Tool Set: Great quality
  Shelley L. Nordlund: I gave these to my son-in-law for a Christmas gift. He had specifically requested Weber tools, so that's what he got. He got some other tools from another relative and oh, my what a difference in quality. The Weber tools are heavy and very high quality- I think they may be the last set of bbq tools he'll ever need. (read the full review)

Progressive International Perfect Burger Press:  Does one thing and does it really well
  Wes: I'm am a neat freak and this little press makes my life so much easier! I used to struggle with making my burgers the correct size by hand. They would always shrink while grilling and the burgers that looked great on the plate turned out looking like nuggets after they hit the grill, but this press solves that problem. The dimple keeps the middle of the burger from swelling (a bit) and the end result is burgers that perfectly fit your buns. One of the best tools I have bought for my grill. (read the full review)

Five Five-Star Kitchen Favorites for Mom

If you have a mom who loves cooking and all the products that go with it, and want a little help picking out Mother’s Day gifts this year, but also want to avoid generic marketing speech, then let me introduce you to five Mother’s Day gift ideas that have been hits with Amazon customers. I can't guarantee that mom will love them, but the odds are at least more in your favor than shopping without any advice.

Progressive International 19-Piece Measuring Cup and Spoon Set: Love the extra details
Earth Mother: "My last set of measuring cups had sadly dwindled down to 3 different sizes. It was getting difficult to measure 1/3 of a cup out of a 1/4 cup measuring cup. I found this set in my search, and it seemed interesting that it seemed to have a variety of sizes. Ah-ha! For someone whose sets seem to disapear with the socks and tupperware lids, it seemed great. (My personal theory is that aliens need these items to power their space ships :). These cups are sturdy, 'nest' well, and stay that way. No spilling all over the cupboard because they were touched. And the number of sizes makes recipies easy! Having just 2 people to feed in our home means reducing recipies, and this set has sizes that will actually allow us to measure odd amounts." (read the full review)

Zojirushi Micom 3-Cup Rice Cooker and Warmer, Stainless Steel: My favorite kitchen appliance next to the dishwasher
Donzeleigh: "I debated over buying an appliance dedicated solely to one task and one task only, but I am so glad I finally did. This rice cooker has changed my life, in so much as it gives me one less thing to think about when I walk in the door from work and am confronted with getting dinner on the table in a timely fashion. It's such a relief to not even have to measure out the rice and water and get that going; Zojirushi has it under control and I can focus on the veggies and the protein. The appliance is very easy to use and pre-program, and easy to clean/maintain. (Washing out the non-stick bowl sure beats having to clean out the entire microwave when the rice water inevitably bubbles over)." (read the full review)

Tom Douglas 4-Piece Stainless-Steel Spatula Set, Bittersweet Chocolate: Excellent Quality!
LadyLicR: "I bought these to replace cheap wooden handled ones, and I'm glad I did. When I first opened them I said "now that's a spatula" After using them to make various dishes I can say that these will probably outlast me. I wear an XXL glove and these fit well in my hand. They have a good weight and when I made pasta salad, scalloped potatoes, and a heavy cookie batter, I felt I could stir without fear of breaking them. They clean up well and store just as nice. A welcome addition to my kitchen. My old spatulas quickly made it to the garage and are now used as paint can scrapers." (read the full review)

DeLonghi CGH800-U Retro Panini Grill: Outstanding Panini Grill
Terrageezer: "Was skeptical of all the good reviews on this Panini Grill especially at the price. I have been completely blown away by how well it performs. It heats up very fast and seems to have very even heating across all of the grill surfaces. It will toast up and crust with grill marks a ham & chesse panini sandwhich on whole wheat in a matter of 2-3 minutes. Have used it to cook bacon which it will do in a matter of about 5 minutes to a crispy texture. The heat setting dial is easy to see and use and seems to control the heat very well. Cleaning the unit is accomplished with a warm wet rag very easily. The grill plates do not remove and as such it easier to clean when they are slightly heated. I am very impressed and very please with the inital performance of the grill."  (read the full review)

Shun Steel 6-Inch Tomato Knife: Deceivingly sharp!
P. David: "Besides Shun's normally great design, this is amazingly sharp. Doesn't feel so sharp because of the scalloped blade but it glides through grapefruit, simply a pleasure to use. It's replacing my Wustof tomato knife, it's a huge improvement over the Wustof. Be aware because of it's design, it's best suited for the right handed user." (read the full review)

--A.J. Rathbun

Have Cupcakes, Will Travel

The cupcake craze seems to be in at least somewhat full swing (at YumSugar there’s a poll, following a short article about being over said craze, where 81% of the respondents say “No. I love cupcakes. Always will.” versus only 7% saying “Yes. I'm totally over cupcakes.”) and my love of cupcakes isn’t diminishing. But one of the problems with cupcakes is that they can be hard to take with you without mussing them up--they tend to flip and flop around. And this leads to the cupcakes I take to picnics, or parties, or work, or work parties not looking so sharp when I show up. But, I just picked up the Progressive International collapsible cupcake carrier and feel my cupcake transport worries are in the past. It holds 24 delicious cupcakes and has a little space around each spot for easy picking up (which is good since my fingers aren’t as nimble as they once were). And, it collapses, and slots right into an empty spot within my kitchen closet. Don’t just listen to me though (cause hey, I just ate like three cupcakes and may be all full of sugar). Here's what a few Amazon customers had to say:

Jenna Riane says, “I bought this a few weeks ago because I'm always making cupcakes and never have an easy way to bring them anywhere. Most cupcake holders hold 12 cupcakes or crush the frosting. The other problem is that most holders take up so much room when you need to store them that it's not worth having them in the first place. This holds 24 cupcakes and has enough headroom to prevent frosting mishaps. It also has an ingenious collapsible design to allow it to take up less than half its original height.” (read the full review)

Robert Milnikiewicz says, "This cake keeper is SUPER. I can't give it enough stars. It's VERY well thought out. It has 3 locking clamps around the bottom, one of the cupcake trays has, built-in folding legs to hold it well above the first tier, the trays not only have recessed cupcake spaces,(24) but also have finger indents to easily get to the cupcake without ruining the decoration. The trays give a 4" clearance for cupcakes. The cake base is 14" in diameter and is 8" high when extended. The collapsible feature tops off this ingenious piece of work.” (read the full review)

One thing to watch for, that does come up in the reviews, too--always carry by both the handle and the bottom if transporting a full batch of cupcakes or a big cake, for safety’s sake. I’m, strangely, a cupcake guy, but not so much a cake guy, so I’m not worried about using it for taking large cakes anywhere. Typing this does make me wonder: are people usually lovers of both cakes and cupcakes, or are their other folks out there that fall into one sweet camp or another?

--A.J. Rathbun

Embrace the Bourbon

Sometimes we fear what we should love (that’s my sweeping generalization for the day). Take bourbon, for example. Many people shy away from this historic, essential, and completely American spirit. Because it has a bit of a tough guy reputation, and is known to carry a bit of a wallop at times (then again, so does a really good kiss), folks often avoid bringing a good bottle of bourbon home. This is a crying shame, and a situation that hopefully will be at least somewhat alleviated by Fred Thompson’s new book Bourbon: 50 Rousing Recipes for a Classic American Spirit (published by Harvard Common Press, 2010). Easy to get a handle on due to its handy size, this book is packed with bourbon facts and lore sprinkled in among recipes that go from the classics (like the almighty Manhattan) to newer favorites (like the Bourbon Chocolate Martini). There are also drinks for parties (because once you get into bourbon, you’ll want to bring others around, too), and a chapter of food recipes using bourbon--which shows the spirit’s versatility and playfulness. If that wasn’t enough, Mr. Thompson writes with charm and verve and an obvious and contagious love of bourbon. And there are pretty pictures. So, don’t wait any longer: begin a bourbon embrace (or, if you already love bourbon, like me, don’t wait to expand your bourbon embracing).

--A.J. Rathbun

Got Bitters?

The world is a better place with bitters. Not only are they absolutely crucial in many cocktails, bitters can also add flavor and spice to foods, ease that overfull feeling after dinner, and in many places are revered as a curative for a host of aches and pains. Created with secret recipes of herbs, spices, fruits, vegetables, and more, until not long ago bitters had fallen from their exalted position behind the bar (and in other spots, but especially there). Though popular and available in multiple varieties in the late 1800s and early 1900s, they got a little lost in the middle-and-last-part of last century, to the point where you were lucky if a bar had Angostura bitters. If the bar had Angostura and Peychaud’s bitters (both never became completely unavailable), it was a cocktail-lover’s heaven. If the bar had more, you’d rented a time machine. But slowly, as people realized drinks should taste good again (well, there are many theories, but sometimes it’s best not to question too much), bitters started making a comeback. The Fee Brothers line of flavored bitters started showing up more, cocktail genius Gaz Regan came out with his Orange Bitters No. 6 after long and steady research, and more bitters started showing up. And now, low and behold, The Bitter Truth line of bitters is finally available in the U.S. via Domaine Select. Created in Germany by Stephan Berg and Alexander Hauck, The Bitter Truth bitters and cocktail seasonings that are now available include their award-winning Celery Bitters, Old Time Aromatic Bitters, Orange Bitters, Lemon Bitters, and Bittermens Xocolatl Mole and Grapefruit Bitters (Bittermens is an American bitters maker that until now had limited availability). There’s no reason at all to go bitter-less when making drinks--making this, as I’ve said before, a wonderful time to be a cocktail lover.

PS: I almost forgot the most exciting bitters news of all. Al Dente writer and bon vivant extraordinaire Brad Thomas Parsons is currently writing the definitive guide to bitters (and to making your own bitters, too), Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All, with Cocktails and Recipes (Ten Speed Press, Fall 2011). Be sure you watch for it.

--A.J. Rathbun

The Bordeaux Cup Brings Extra Holiday Cheer

Here’s to cheery holidays, holidays full of friends and family, delicious food, fun, frolicking, and the Bordeaux Cup in every cup. If you don’t know the “cup” family of drinks, then I suggest you add them to holiday invite list. Basically a quick wine (or other base) punch spiced up and served over ice, the “cup” has been consumed for, well, at least over a hundred plus years, for holidays and every-days. You can sub in another red wine here (claret was once a popular choice, and has a nice seasonal ring to it) and not lose any of the festiveness, too. And that’s what this drink, and this time of year, is all about: being more festive (here’s a big “cheers” for that notion). The below recipe is from Wine Cocktails (copyedit 2009, Harvard Common Press), and the lovely photo take by Melissa Punch.

The Bordeaux Cup

Serves 6

Ingredients:
1 lemon
One 750-milliliter bottle Bordeaux
3 ounces simple syrup (see Second Note, below)
1/2 cup cold water
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
Ice cubes

Directions:
1. Using a sharp peeler or paring knife, remove the rind from the lemon, working to get only rind, leaving the white pith behind. Chop the lemon rind into 1- to-2-inch pieces.

2. Combine the Bordeaux, simple syrup, water, cinnamon, cloves, and allspice to a large pitcher. Stir well.

3. Add the lemon rind to the pitcher, and stir again briefly.

4. Fill up six goblets halfway with ice cubes. Pour the mixture into the goblets, making sure each gets a little lemon rind, and serve.

A Note: There are many Bordeaux varieties (all being wine produced in the region of the same name), and some can run high on the pricing side. As you’re mixing it here, I would go for the basic “Red Bordeaux” or “Bordeaux Superieur,” which are fruity and a bit oaky, and which fall into the middle range of the cost spectrum.

A Second Note: For the simple syrup: Combine 2 -1/2 cups water and 3 cups sugar in a medium-sized saucepan. Stirring occasionally, bring the mixture to a boil over a medium-high heat. Lower the heat a bit, keeping the mixture at the low boil for five minutes. Turn off the heat, and let the syrup completely cool in the pan. Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container.

--A.J. Rathbun

Zenzero Tropicale: Dunk Those Ginger Snaps in a Cocktail

The holidays are full of cookies (this is a good thing, by the way--though I’m not sure my waistline would agree). For instance, recently I received the nicest dozen ginger snaps as a little holiday gift from my pal Jill (her husband, pal Ed Skoog has a book just out called Mister Skylight that you should buy, by the way, if you enjoy poetry). The snaps were a bit more cookie-y than many ginger snaps, and not crisp like some traditional ginger biscuits, but with nice ginger flavor and a little chew. I ate a bunch, but then started thinking, “how will I manage to eat all of these without exploding.” And so I decided that I should make a drink using them as a garnish, so I could balance out the eating with a little liquid. I wanted a ginger-y drink, but one also with some other fun flavors. Which led to me VeeV Acai (it’s a super fruit!) spirit and Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur. The VeeV is pretty sprightly with some tropical hints, the Domaine de Canton is very gingery and touch sweet. The drink wasn’t coming out quite right--until I added a little sweet vermouth. Its bit of herbal-ness completely rounded out the edges of the other two, and all-of-sudden I was in ginger-island-holiday-paradise. If you have an abundance of ginger snaps, this is a dandy way to use them, but it’s also just a dandy holiday drink, too.

Ice cubes
1-1/2 ounces VeeV Acai spirit
1 ounce Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur
1/2 ounce sweet vermouth
Ginger snap or cookie, for garnish

1. Fill a cocktail shaker halfway full with ice cubes. Add everything except the cookie. Shake well.

2. Strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with that cookie (I had to notch it just a bit for proper rim balancing. But after that, I did a lot of dunking with it).

 

--A.J. Rathbun

Talking Artisan Chocolates with Master Chocolatier Eric Cayton

The holiday season is sweet. Not only full of memorable moments spent with friends and family, holiday cocktail parties, and oodles of joy, the season is also literally “sweet” as it tends to be packed with dessert-y treats, and maybe none finer than the holiday chocolates that appear this time of year. Which is why it was so much fun that I recently got to talk to master chocolatier Chef Eric Cayton from Derry Church Artisan Chocolates. Not only is he known for his chocolates in general, but he’s also known for interesting flavor combinations in his bon bons, combinations that bring together spices and ingredients from a particular place, such as the Montego Bay, which features coconut, rum, and raisin blended in with a European milk chocolate ganache and enrobed with an intense bittersweet couverture. The fact that a good number of these bon bons feature liqueurs and spirits only made me more excited for the conversation (this shouldn’t come as a surprise, with my well-known love of cocktails). Listening to Eric talk about his chocolate history, holiday chocolate choices, the world's greatest Irish Coffee recipe, and making chocolates with intriguing and delicious flavor profiles, it’s easy to see he takes making chocolates seriously--but also realizes that eating chocolate is a whole lot of fun (and for a visual example, just check out the Derry Church Bento Boxes full of chocolate, putting a whole new spin on this Japanese lunch tradition).

Amazon.com: How did you start making chocolates?

Eric Cayton: I started working in the culinary arts the day I turned 15, in 1980 . . . and that's pretty much all I've ever done. I worked both as a savory chef as well as a pastry chef for over 25 years, but my heart was always with chocolate! I was born and raised in Hershey, PA, so naturally, I was always fascinated with the actual BUSINESS of chocolate, and all the wonderful variations and combinations you can create with the stuff. I can remember exploring and creating small chocolate treats in my Grandmother's kitchen even as a small boy, so chocolate has just been a natural part of my entire life. Professionally speaking though, I guess I actually began making what you could call rustic chocolate truffles (i.e. unfinished ganache dusted in cocoa) back in the late 1980's working for a local caterer. I also later sold rustic truffles through my own catering company throughout the 90's. After about 2000, I began developing the more complicated French bon bon formulations that would later evolve into the Derry Church Artisan Chocolates concept.

Amazon.com: What was the impetus behind mixing liqueurs into your bon bons and in matching up certain cities or regions with them, too?

Eric Cayton: Some of the most interesting and impactful combinations can be derived from the different chocolate ganaches created with the artisan wines, beers, spirits, and liqueurs that can be found in practically every corner of the globe. Even just a limited search at your local Wine & Spirit store will turn up all kinds of possibilities, and the deep, complex, and concentrated flavor profiles of many of these alcoholic beverages pair surprisingly well with different chocolates. It seems that every great city or region in the world has some wonderful indigenous ingredients and food products they're famous for. In some countries, like France or Italy for instance, there are quite literally, hundreds of different specialty food products, such as wines, beer, spirits, and liqueurs, herbs, spices, and produce, cheeses, and many other types of ingredients dispersed throughout the different regions. When I was doing my initial research for the Derry Church Artisan Chocolates concept, I was looking for some truly unique flavor profiles to pair up with the different types of artisan chocolates available out there, and I kept finding all these interesting and unusual ingredients from all over the world--so then it dawned on me: why not just name the different bon bons after the cities and regions from which the main ingredients come from? 

Amazon.com: How hard is it to combine a specific chocolate with a specific liqueur, and is there a lot of testing involved?

Eric Cayton: Yes, you definitely have to test the formulas out, because some liqueurs can simply overpower even an assertive flavor like chocolate. The most important thing to consider when pairing liqueurs, and other types of alcohol, is balance. If the liqueur is light and fruity, such as Chambord or Limoncello, then it may be fine to pair with white chocolate. If the liqueur is an intense and complex flavor profile, such as Anisette or Drambuie, then you will need to pair it with an equally intense bittersweet chocolate to attain balance in the formula. Milk chocolates tend to like nut or coffee based liqueurs, such as Frangelica or Kahlua. This is quite similar to how chefs will pair big, bold "reds" with hearty, spicy, red meat dishes, and refreshing, fruity "whites" with things like poultry, and seafood. Of course, rules were meant to be broken . . . so always taste, taste, and taste again, to make sure that there is balance in the finished bon bon.

Amazon.com: What’s your favorite holiday drink and which bon bon or other liqueur infused chocolate do you like nibbling best when sipping that cocktail?

Eric Cayton: Well, anyone that knows me knows that I'm addicted to two things: chocolate and coffee. Plus, when it comes to cocktails, I'm a bit of a traditionalist, So every Christmas when we have all our family and friends over, usually on Christmas Eve, I always go for the Irish Coffees . . . but I do them MY way:

1) First, I start with large, thick coffee mugs, and warm them up with boiling water until the mugs are very hot, so they hold their heat. Then dump out the boiling water, dry out the mugs, and put about two tablespoons of excellent, warm milk chocolate ganache in each one. (FOR GANACHE: just melt together 3 parts excellent milk chocolate to 1 part excellent heavy cream, keep warm and fluid til service).

2) Then I fill the mug half way with extremely hot, strong black espresso bean, brewed coffee.

3) Then for each mug, I mix 1 to 2 ounces of a good authentic Irish Whiskey (it can be a good blend, like Jameson, since there's no point in ruining single malt with other ingredients!) with about a tablespoon of sugar, and warm it in the microwave for a few seconds to dissolve the sugar (or use simple syrup, your choice) then put the warmed Irish Whiskey/sugar solution into the coffee (do NOT stir, just dump it in).

Talking Holiday Parties with The City Cook

It’s not only the holiday season, but the holiday party season, and everyone wants their party to shine like a star. With this in mind, I wanted to point you to a recent interview I did with the fantastic website The City Cook, talking about seasonal soirées. The interview goes over party planning, glassware, snacks, shopping, and much more. Since The City Cook is the “ultimate guide for pathetically busy, space-compromised urban dwellers who prefer to cook at home,” there is also a focus on having a party in a smaller space--and, I believe there is no reason not to host a happening holiday bash if you live in an apartment or condo, so don’t let space reasons keep you back. So head on over to The City Cook to read the holiday party details and get ready to have people singing your party praises this season. And while you’re there, don’t forget to check out some of the site’s tasty recipes, helpful hints, shopping advice, and fun podcasts (just don’t spend so much time there you forget to plan for your own party).

--A.J. Rathbun

Virginia’s Corn Spoon Bread Makes Thanksgiving Tastier

I know, everyone likes their Thanksgiving traditions (my family: broccoli cheese casserole). But I think it’s also okay to add a little something to the menu, to start a new, delicious, tradition. This year, if you decide to go this route, let me suggest that the new menu item is Virginia Willis’ Corn Spoon Bread (if eating this is already a Thanksgiving tradition, then consider yourself lucky). The recipe is from Virginia’s delightful cookbook Bon Appétit, Y'all: Recipes and Stories from Three Generations of Southern Cooking (Copyright 2008, Ten Speed Press), and as she says, it’s “more like custard than bread, and less like a casserole than a soufflé.” Which means it cuddles right into those spaces left by the potatoes, stuffing, and turkey. So, don’t be afraid to try something different this Thanksgiving (and, don’t be shy about visiting Virginia’s website for even more tasty ideas).

Corn Spoon Bread

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus more for the pan
2 cups whole milk
1 cup very fine yellow cornmeal
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Scraped kernels from 2 ears fresh sweet corn (about 1 cup)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
2 large eggs, separated

Directions:
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter an ovenproof casserole or round 2-quart soufflé mold.

2. To prepare the batter, in a medium saucepan, combine the milk and cornmeal over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, whisking rapidly and constantly, until very, very thick, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Add the corn kernels, chives, and the 2 tablespoons melted butter. Season with salt and pepper and stir to combine. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, stirring after each addition.

4. To beat the egg whites, in a separate bowl, using a handheld mixer, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt on high speed until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into the warm cornmeal mixture.

5. Transfer the lightened cornmeal mixture to the prepared pan; smooth the surface with a spatula. Bake until puffed and risen and the inside is firm, but moist, and the top is golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Serve immediately while puffed and risen.

A Saucy Mama Gibson Cocktail Makes Winter Wonderful

Well, maybe a good Gibson isn’t the only thing that makes winter wonderful (I mean, there’s also hot spiked cider and mistletoe), but having a well-made one definitely makes your party more interesting than serving solely Martinis. Though the Gibson is so close to a regular Martini that you’d call them siblings instead of cousins, it doesn’t get near the face time (of course, it doesn’t have the indignity of being made with vodka a lot, either). This is a shame, because the seemingly slight difference between them, the inclusion of a cocktail onion instead of a twist or olive, really does add a lot: a slight saltiness and savory-ness that makes a more rakish drink, one that’s still refined but a touch more dangerous, more Humphrey Bogart and less Cary Grant. The key, naturally, is getting a good cocktail onion. I’m always on the lookout for ideal cocktail onions, and I think I’ve recently found a new favorite: Saucy Mama cocktail onions. They have good flavor, retain their crunch when bathing in gin and vermouth, and look lovely in a cocktail glass. Whip up the below recipe from Good Spirits using two Saucy Mama cocktail onions (they’re that good) and Washington's own Voyager gin (which is made with all organic botanicals and has a complex delicious flavor) at your next holiday gathering, or after a long day of holiday shopping, or anytime at all, and make your winter even more wonderful.

The Gibson

Ingredients:
Ice cubes
2-1/2 ounces gin
1/2 ounce dry vermouth
1 or 2 cocktail onions for garnish

Directions:
1. Fill a cocktail shaker or mixing glass halfway full with ice cubes. Add the gin and dry vermouth. Stir well.

2. Add one or two cocktail onions to a cocktail glass. Strain the mix over the onions.

A Note: This delivers a classically-sized 3-ounce cocktail, the perfect amount for you to drink it, as the saying goes, “while it’s laughing at you.”

--A.J. Rathbun

Add Pizzazz to Your Snacking and Pizza-ing

Having been an Amazon.com Kitchen editor for, oh, about nine years, I’ve seen my share of intriguing and interesting items. But even after seeing lots of these eye-catchers, the Presto Pizzazz pizza oven instantly made me do a double-take the first time I saw it. It just looks a little odd: an oven that’s open to the air for the most part. My first thought was: total gimmick, which probably doesn’t work (well, call me a skeptic). My second thought was: wait, I should try it before being skeptical. And then I forgot about it for awhile (we do have approximately 33,000 appliances after all), until seeing it again, going through the first two thoughts again, and then, this time, picking one up so I could test it out. And you know what? It actually works really, really well. 

What makes it work are the independently controlled top and bottom heating elements. It looks like what’s cooking would just get heat from the top when it rolled under that element, thereby taking more time, but really the heating is happening all the time, and the cooking happens continually. And, it doesn’t have to preheat, which means it tends to cook faster than a conventional oven. It’s obviously shaped for pizza, and the box swears that it works as well for fresh as for frozen, so the first thing I tried was a homemade pizza (I took it for granted that for frozen pizza it would work dandy). I was pretty unsure at first--mostly because I don’t usually watch something cook in an oven throughout the whole process. The end result was tasty though, with a crisp crust and well-cooked toppings. It did take a touch longer than I thought, but no more than cooking it in a regular oven.

I wanted to try the Pizzazz with some snacks, too, as the box also says it’s not solely for pizza and, well, I like snacks. This had me one afternoon dropping a couple of frozen taquitos and cheese-stuffed-and-fried-jalapeño-popper things on the oven and starting it up. Now, here, is where it really shined, as it had the recently-frozen delights cooked and crispy and ready for snacking about 5 minutes faster than the recommended oven-cooking times listed on their boxes. For snack-intensive days (football games, all-day parties), the Pizzazz is a dream.

A couple final notes: first, the heating element does get hot, necessitating that you’re careful when removing items. And definitely don’t touch it. There is a timer, which helps, and an shutoff function hooked to the timer for added safety, and another automatic shutoff feature that kicks in if over-heating occurs. The Pizzazz is a snap to clean, and super-quick to set up--which means quick snacks, no waiting. This is a good thing, because when that snack craving hits, no one wants to wait around.

--A.J. Rathbun