Yay For Avocado Dishes That Go Way Beyond Guacamole

When chef Eric Tanaka was a kid in Southern California, avocados were a major pain.

"I used to have to mow the yard and we had a big avocado tree that was constantly dropping fruit," he said. "You'd know it when you ran over one of them with the mower."

These days, the executive chef of Tom Douglas Restaurants loves buttery rich avocados from his home state, so much so that he signed on as a spokesman for The California Avocado Commission. He recently created a special dinner celebrating the avocado's versatility, a five-course spread that began with a gorgeous dish called Dungeness Crab Wild Thing (pictured here) and ended with a show-stopping avocado gelato served atop a mound of spicy shave ice. (That was my favorite!)

Avocados have largely been relegated to the snack department in most home kitchens -- they'd have to cancel the Super Bowl if there was a shortage because you can't watch the Big Game without nachos and guac -- yet, this mild-tasting fruit is capable of being the main attraction.

Chef Eric deftly demonstrated that, especially during two impressive entree courses: Lightly smoked avocados were pickled Penn Cove clams and cured salmon, and then red wine braised and seared lambs tongue partnered with a garlicky skordalia. A one-two punch of flavor proving that avocados have a place on upscale menus.

During dinner, our party was schooled on the business of avocado agriculture in the Golden State -- it's still largely family-owned operations -- and on the practical matters of finding a ripe avocado at the supermarket. (Try gently squeezing it in your palm instead of poking it with your finger.)

I've always been a fan -- of Tanaka and of the avocado -- but this dinner gave me new appreciation for both!

-- Leslie Kelly