A Delicious Trip To Chicago's Coolest Farm-to-Table Restaurants
I just spent a year in Chicago.
Well, not exactly 12 months in traditional calendar terms. This trip was more of an armchair journey, savoring the seasons of the Midwest by way of some creative kitchens in a new book called The Chicago Homegrown Cookbook.
This tasty tribute to the relationships forged between cooks and farmers is divided into seasons, which means giving us new ways to look at asparagus, beets, stone fruits, cheeses, meats and much more. I'm currently stuck on some of the wonderful flavors of spring including an amazing recipe for ricotta gnocchi with morel mushrooms from Chad Sterling at Aria and grilled asparagus soup from the innovative chef at Kendall College, a leading culinary school.
This book is so much more than a collection of recipes, though. Writer Heather Lalley profiles farmers, ranchers and the chefs and cooks who take their raw ingredients and turn them into something special. It's these stories that brings home the importance of sourcing as locally as possible.
Take the tale of Lloyd Nichols, who started farming in the 1970s as a career changer. He and his family have grown their operation to include more than 1,000 varieties of fruits and vegetables on their 400-acre place. That kind of diversity is mind-boggling and deeply appreciated by chefs like Aria's Chad Sterling, who lists Nichols Farms on his menu and strives to "showcase the integrity of the ingredient."
Or, consider the force of nature that is Beth Eccles, a third-generation farmer whose Japanese-immigrant grandparents began their working lives as sharecroppers, selling Asian produce off the back of their truck. These days, the wide variety of fruits and vegetables the family operation grows is coveted by some of Chicago's best restaurants and chefs, including Carrie Nahabedian, whose immigrant roots also influence her approach to food. "We didn't eat prepared foods, we didn't eat packaged foods. Everyone in the family was highly accomplished. Everyone was a great cook," said the chef/owner of Naha.
The city's most famous chefs are included in this book, which was beautifully photographed by Brendan Lekan. Rick Bayless, of course, was an early proponent of the farm-to-table philosophy. As was Paul Kahan, the busy bee who creates the menus at The Publican, Blackbird, avec and Big Star. (Love the juicy trivia about Kahan growing up hanging around his dad's deli, snacking on pickles straight out of the barrel.)
What I really loved about Chicago Homegrown, though, was how it introduced me to a fascinating crew of characters. After reading about them, I can't wait to take a real trip to that Windy City. My first stop is definitely going to be Hoosier Mama Pie Company, where I'm going to savor one of Paula Haney's savory pork and apple/sage hand pies made with meat from C & D Family Farms.
Until then, I'm going to do my best to recreate that recipe and many others, including this Yukon gold potato gnocchi.
Yukon Potato Gnocchi, Green Acres Tomatoes, Roasted Eggplant, and Spinach with a “Fondue” of Ricotta Cheese and Fresh-squeezed Tomato Broth
From Chef Carrie Nahabedian of Naha
12 Yukon gold potatoes
2 eggs
Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste
4 c. all-purpose flour
3/4 c. olive oil, divided
1 eggplant, cut into 2-in. chunks
3 thyme sprigs
2 lb. good-quality fresh tomatoes, pureed with a splash of water and sieved to remove pulp and seeds (enough to make 2 c. of juice)
1 lb. fava beans, peeled and blanched, membrane removed
2 ripe heirloom tomatoes, cut into small wedges
1/2 c. basil leaves, torn
4 oz. pea shoots
1 bunch spinach
1 c. good-quality ricotta cheese
2 tbsp. butter
Cook the potatoes in water until just tender. Remove from water and quickly remove the skins. Place on a pan and dry the potatoes out for 2 minutes in a preheated 350°F oven. Cool slightly. Run the potatoes through a ricer or grate them coarsely.
Place potatoes on the work area or cutting board. Add eggs. Season with kosher salt and cracked black pepper. Set aside 4 c. of flour.
Place 3 c. of the flour on the work area and make a well. Add in the potato mixture and work dough with your hands. It takes time, but do not overwork the dough. Add flour as needed; dough should be slightly dry, not wet. Let rest for 15 minutes, covered with a towel.
Cut a piece off the dough. Roll it by hand into a large rope. Cut the gnocchi into 1/2-in. pieces. You can also choose to roll with a fork for more detail. Make sure the cutting board/work area is dusted with flour. Place raw gnocchi on a parchment-lined pan and keep rolling out the rest. You can freeze gnocchi at this point in an airtight plastic container that is lined with parchment that has been dusted with cornmeal or flour.
Cook gnocchi in boiling salted water with 1/8 c. of olive oil until the gnocchi “float.” Remove with a slotted spoon and cool on a pan. Lightly toss with 1/8 c. of olive oil. Let cool.
Toss the cut eggplant with ¼ c. olive oil, kosher salt, black pepper, and a few thyme sprigs. Place on a roasting pan and roast in a 450°F oven until a rich golden brown with crispy skin. Set aside.
Marinate the heirloom tomato wedges in ¼ c. olive oil, along with the torn basil leaves, kosher salt, and pepper. Chill.
Clean and reserve pea shoots for the garnish. Clean and reserve 1 bunch of spinach.
In a nonstick sauté pan, lightly brown the gnocchi in butter which has started to brown. Cook gnocchi until lightly colored on all sides. Add in all the ingredients except the marinated tomatoes, tomato juice, and ricotta cheese. Wilt the spinach and season to taste. Melt in the ricotta and add the tomato juice and marinated tomatoes.
Serves 8.
-- Leslie Kelly
affordable web hosting on May 23, 2011 at 09:32 PM
It is such a nice dish to prepare in holidays. I can 't thank you enough for sharing it.
PPI on May 24, 2011 at 03:28 AM
Really yummy and delicious recipe. I try this at my home. And all the family members like it very much and they best reviews. Thanks for sharing this recipe with us.
ayala land Laguna on October 12, 2011 at 07:11 PM
Thanks for the recipe, I will give it a try.
Alvin