A Good Appetite
My mom always said if you got even a couple good recipes out of a cookbook, the sort you could add to your regular repertoire, it was worth buying it. (Hmm. Maybe my crowded bookshelves are hereditary?) I know what Mom meant, but I much prefer finds like "In The Kitchen With A Good Appetite," a solidly superb new book by Melissa Clark that's racking up hits as fast as I can test the recipes.
So far, I haven't browsed the book so much as cooked my way through it, barely able to turn a page without deciding that the next recipe looks like a fine idea for the following night's dinner. I got particularly stuck in the "farmers market" chapter, working through Roasted Spiced Cauliflower With Almonds (p. 70, fabulous), Pomegranate Roasted Carrots (p. 71, the picky toddler ate them!), Roasted Eggplant With Basil Green Goddess Dressing (p. 72, gave me addictive echoes of Poppy's fries), Red Lentil Soup with Lemon (p. 75, I'd use less salt, but still thought it worthy of sharing with the talented Tea).
The book succeeds for a couple reasons: One, of course, is that the recipes are clear and work the way Clark says they do. (Fans of her New York Times food column won't be surprised). The other is that Clark creates such manageable yet interesting recipes, thinking up new ways to enjoy flavors I already love. (I'll also always owe her for finding a use for unripe peaches; namely, roasting them with chicken thighs.) Then, Clark's explanations of how she developed or improvised each dish give us the courage to tweak her recipes toward our own tastes. Those eggplant fries reminded me even more of Poppy's on a second try, when I drizzled them with honey instead of basil dressing.
Here's that cauliflower recipe that I enjoyed so much.
Know who I made it for? My mom.
Clark is currently on tour, and fellow Seattleites can find her on Wednesday, Oct. 13, in the sort of venue she deserves: A Kim Ricketts event at Picnic, whose recipes I also wouldn't mind having on my shelf, in a conversation with the most excellent Orangette. Tickets are available here.
Roasted Spiced Cauliflower with Almonds
Ingredients:
3/4 teaspoon whole cumin
3/4 teaspoon whole coriander seed
1/2 teaspoon whole brown mustard seed
1 large cauliflower, trimmed and cut into 1-inch florets
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus additional to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons sliced almonds
Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Using the flat side of a knife or a mortar and pestle, lightly crush the cumin, coriander, and mustard.
2. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the cauliflower with the oil, salt, pepper, and spice mixture, then spread out in an even layer. Roast for 15 minutes, then stir the cauliflower and cook for 10 more minutes. Sprinkle on the almonds, stir again, and cook for an additional 5 minutes, until brown and softened. Serve hot, warm, or cold.
-- From "In The Kitchen With A Good Appetite"
-- Rebekah Denn
Nurit - 1 family. friendly. food. on October 12, 2010 at 09:59 AM
I had a chance to sneak a peek at a preview copy--it was love at first sight. The recipes sound so good and it feels cozy in a way... Like there's so much personal touch in it. And I loved that there are no photos :) Anticipating to get my copy tomorrow.
Rebekah Denn on October 12, 2010 at 11:13 PM
Nurit, that is a great point about the photos -- so different from what we see in a lot of cookbooks today. I'd love to see you write about what kind of difference it makes! If you do, send us a link!
CABAL RMT on February 12, 2011 at 12:02 AM
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