Shopping Mall Cuisine
Now that I am living in Orange County, I suppose I will have to get over it, or I will be seriously limiting my dining options. In that vein, I recently accompanied my parents to a new restaurant at South Coast Plaza, called AnQi. According to its Twitter profile: "AnQi is the An family’s new bistro concept which offers a fusion of cuisine and couture." AnQi's press release trumpets: "AnQi will offer a fashionable, inviting bistro-style atmosphere that will highlight the An family’s legendary fine food in a more casual environment. As the An family continues to stay on the forefront of what’s next, AnQi will feature a runway inside the dining room, perfect for fun collaborations with Bloomingdale's, fashion shows and special events."
The An family is allegedly known for their Euro-Vietnamese cuisine, however, the menu boasts Wagyu sliders, a poblano chicken tortilla wrap, and Caesar salad nestled among its Asian offerings, rather muddling any sense of culinary direction. A gigantic back lit bar dominates the cavernous landscape of AnQi's modern Asian interiors, a shining altar to the god of ROI: clearly the hopes for money making lay therein.
The service was pleasant. I can't complain. The food was fine. Even tasty. My dad ordered the $11 bánh mì sandwich (egregiously overpriced given the proximity of Little Saigon), which came with french fries. The bread not as airy and crispy as I've had in less polished establishments, but it was tasty just the same. AnQi just lacks a certain sense of, well, authenticity. I'd guess I'd rather eat at a restaurant that's not tucked between the Gap and the Pottery Barn, that doesn't couple the words "couture" and "cuisine" in its press release, and that's more about the food than the furnishings.
How do you feel about fine dining in shopping malls?
--StellaCadente*
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Scott on January 26, 2010 at 02:02 PM
Too funny. Non of the info in the press gives any hint of the type of food served. "Fusion of cuisine and couture"; what the heck is that? It just proves that you can probably just use the right words and never explain the food. Is that the new trend?
Also, I really don't understand the need to please everybody. Why serve french fries with an asian meal? I understand the french influence of vietnamese food, but french fries? Stay true to your concept and the people will come.
StellaCadente* on January 26, 2010 at 05:05 PM
Scott, I agree...when did restaurants stop being about food? Help!
Peggy on January 27, 2010 at 03:52 AM
I've never really like "mall restaurants" either. I'm more of your local restaurant, off the beaten path kind of person. More parking space, better service, more authenticity... can't go wrong usually.
JD on January 27, 2010 at 07:27 AM
Did you happen to visit any of the restaurants in the malls in Bangkok? I noticed this in Jakarta, the finest dining at a somewhat reasonable cost was available in those ten floor shopping centers in Jakarta. Want a grade 9 Wagyu steak? It's there, for about thirty dollars. Or skip that and hit Rotiboy in the basement for fifty cents. I couldn't afford any of the items for sale in the mall because of the import duty, but I certainly went there for the food when I wanted something more western.
StellaCadente* on January 27, 2010 at 09:59 AM
JD, you are right. Not all malls are created equal. The food courts in BKK are pretty incredible, and I wouldn't mind eating in there. Mainly speaking about your run of the mill American-type mall.
StellaCadente* on January 28, 2010 at 10:42 AM
Peggy-is that you? FCI Peggy?!
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