Two French Classics: Perfecting the Tarte Tatin with Calville Blanc d'Hiver Apples
Even as I was preparing my simple apple crisp, my friend Zachary was perfecting his not-so-simple Tarte Tatin. In fact, the recipe is so long, he didn't even send it to me. He simply referred me to the pages for pate brisé and Tarte Tatin in Julia Child's The Way to Cook.
For his Tartes Tatins, Zachary uses Calville Blanc d'Hiver apples from Scott Farm, an heirloom orchard run by the Landmark Trust. The sprawling orchard, with more than 600 acres, was used as the backdrop in the film Cider House Rules and is just up the road from his house in Brattleboro, Vermont.
The Calville Blanc d'Hiver dates back to France in the late 1500s and has been a favorite for French tarts ever since. Zachary thinks they're the best. Pie whisperer Kate McDermott likes Gravensteins for her pies. And I wish I could get my hands on some Rome apples for my crisps. What's your baking apple of choice?
--Tracy Schneider
Kate McDermott on October 09, 2009 at 12:41 AM
After the summer berries and stone fruits, I always look forward to those first delicious Gravenstein apples with their sweet and tangy flavor. The weekly offerings of heritage apples at our Farmers Markets are like a history lesson for the senses. Each week farmers dedicated to keeping old varieties available bring fruit with names like Egremont Russet, Cox Orange Pippin, King David, Bramley's Seedling, Spitzenburg just to name a few. Combining 5-6 varieties of apples in a pie makes for a taste sensation!
Kate McDermott
www.artofthepie.com
greece holidays on October 09, 2009 at 10:33 PM
Oh wow!! This looks soo good. thanks for share with us..
vedakarlo on October 10, 2009 at 09:39 AM
In NYC apples at Union Square market right now are fabulous. Just made a tarte tatin with russets and the balance between the acid and the caramel is just fabulous. For American pies I like Northern Spies, available in early November. They are originally a NY state apple now grown extensively in Michigan for canned pie filling but nothing beats fresh spies.
vedakarlo on October 19, 2009 at 01:01 PM
Finally found some Caville blanc d" Hiver apples last Friday at Union Square. Definitely far superior to any other apple I've tried for Tarte Tatin.
Tracy Schneider on October 19, 2009 at 07:55 PM
Thanks, vedakarlo. Keep us posted with your farmers market finds!