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Ladies Who Lunch

Orange-souffle-lunch A new Neiman Marcus opened a stone's throw from Seattle, in Bellevue, a few weeks ago, and I have been looking forward to taking my daughter to the store's restaurant, Mariposa, even before it opened.

I love going out to lunch with my ten-year-old, but I was particularly excited about this lunch. Not simply because it was a special time to spend together, but because it was also chance for me to go back in time.

Back in time to the Bird Cage, Lord & Taylor's in-store restaurant that my mother and I would visit for lunch in the '60s when my family was on vacation in New York City.

I don't remember there being tables at the Bird Cage, rather ingenious chairs that your lunch tray would be hooked onto once you sat down. The room was always packed, typically with women, rarely a man. Sometimes, models wandered the floor, holding little signs that described the outfits they were wearing. Looking up, there were dozens of bird cages hanging down from the ceiling.

I don't remember what we ate at the Bird Cage, but it could easily have been the meal I always order at Mariposa, the lunch plate that comes with chicken salad, fruit salad, a small muffin and the restaurant's Mandarin Orange Souffle, aka jello.

For Neiman Marcus, that souffle is "the number one 'ladies lunch' item throughout the country". For me it's a way to travel back in time.

Mandarin Orange Souffle

Ingredients:
1-1/4 cups orange juice (preferably from concentrate, thawed and diluted)
1 tablespoon (1 envelope) unflavored gelatin
1 cup sugar
2 large egg yolks
1-1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup canned mandarin orange sections (4-ounce can)

Directions:
1. Pour 1/4 cup of the orange juice into a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over, and stir to dissolve. Seat aside to let the gelatin soften. Prepare and ice bath in a large bowl.

2. Pour the remaining orange juice into a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan and stir in the sugar and egg yolks. Over medium heat, gradually bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring constantly until the mixture begins to steam and is slightly thickened. do not allow the mixture to boil. Add the softened gelatin mixture (which will have a rubbery texture) and the lemon juice. Stir until incorporated and then transfer the "custard" to a clean mixing bowl; sit the bowl in the ice bath to cool. While the custard is cooking, stir it occasionally.

3. Using a wire whisk or an electric whisk, whip the heavy cream until soft peaks form. With a spatula, gently fold some of the whipped cream into the cooled custard mixture to "loosen" it, then add the rest of the cream mixture and fold in until fully incorporated.

4. Place three or four of the mandarin orange sections in the bottom of six individual 5-ounce fluted plastic dessert molds and then fill the molds with the orange souffle mixture. Place the molds on a cookie sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Transfer to the refrigerator and chill for at least 4 hours, and preferably overnight, until firm. Carefully unmold.

Serves 6.

Neiman Marcus Cookbook, Kevin Garvin, Clarkson Potter, 2003

--Tracy Schneider

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Comments

Thanks for this wonderful addition. Really enjoyed your blog. Appreciate people taking the time to write quality work..

I hope you and your daughter also enjoyed their complimentary pre-meal Popovers w/Strawberry Butter! Neiman Marcus opened here in Honolulu several years ago and that's what everyone talks about. I don't go very often and don't recall the Souffle on the menu but now there's a reason for a 'special' lunch -- mahalo!

Hello
Its really nice that you enjoy with you daughter.I like to try different type of food.I have never tasted this kind of recipe before so I want to really try for this.Thank you very much for sharing this recipe with us.

Tracy,
Thanks for the awesome Lord & Taylor memories! My mom and I frequented the Lord & Taylor in Garden City, NY when I was little.
I have very early distant memories of the Bird Cage as well. We didn't dine out very often when I was little but I do remember that the Bird Cage was a special treat. In addition to the bird cages, I vaguely remember a greenish gazebo decor. Correct me if my memory fails me! I think the sandwich of choice back then was a turkey club. Now, my daughter and I opt for the Nordstrom Cafe whenever we dine out! The Asian chicken salad is excellent!
Melissa A. Trainer

Ooh, good find! I love these "lost dessert" type sweets.

Thank you for your thoughtful post. My memories are from a regional department store Hess's which had its flagship store in Allentown, PA. Although its restaurant, The Patio, was located in the basement, it was an exciting place for a special lunch with Mom, aunts and other ladies. Oversized menus, afternoon fashion shows, and foot-tall strawberry pie were the hallmarks for lunch at The Patio, but most memorable for a child was that lunch was delivered on a child-sized stove.

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