The Canal House Cookbook: Home Cooking for Home Cooks

I received my copy of Canal House Cooking, Volume No. 2 (Fall & Holiday) a few days ago, and I can't help myself from sharing it with everyone I know. First I describe the concept, two former Saveur alums, one a photographer, the other an illustrator, both writers, who cook together every day, publish their favorite recipes throughout the year, according to the seasons.

Then I describe the cookbook, beautifully photographed, handsomely illustrated, lovingly designed. Each recipe has its own story. As for the recipes, it's hard to choose which to try first. Fried zucchini? Duck with apples and onions? Pear sorbet? Currant gingersnaps? I want to try them all. And why not? It's all "home cooking, by home cooks for home cooks."

When I read the story about the pumpkin soup that the Canal House Cooking authors, Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton, made for visiting Chez Panisse chef David Tanis, I knew it would be the chosen first recipe.

I've been itching to buy one of those beautiful Cinderella pumpkins these last few years, I see them in the fall at our local farmers market, but could never justify paying the hefty price for a mere decoration. But if it's an ingredient...

At first glance, the pumpkin soup recipe may sound a bit daunting. I always thought cooking and serving soup in a pumpkin was a bit over-the-top. But after reading the recipe, the whole procedure seems pretty straightforward--and a whole lot of fun.

Pumpkin Soup with Pimenton and Preserved Lemon

Ingredients:
8-10 pound sturdy, thick-fleshed pumpkin, (preferably Rouge Vif d'Etampes, Cinderella, or Cheese)
Softened butter
Coarse salt and pepper
2 tablespoons pimenton
2 preserved lemon rinds, finely chopped
2 sliced garlic cloves
2 bay leaves
Chicken broth

Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Cut out a lid around the stem-end of the pumpkin and set aside. Scrape out and discard the seeds and strings.

2. Put pumpkin on a baking sheet along with the lid. Rub the pumpkin flesh with lots of softened butter. Rub in coarse salt and pepper, and 2 tablespoons pimenton. Add the finely chopped rinds of 2 preserved lemons, a coupe of sliced garlic cloves and 2 bay leaves.

3. Fill the pumpkin halfway full with a good broth. Roast until flesh is soft when pierced with a paring knife. Take care not to puncture the skin. Replace lid for effect, if you like, and serve the pumpkin soup at the table, scraping the flesh from the bottom and sides into the broth then ladling it into bowls.

Serves about 8.

Canal House Cooking, Volume No. 2, Hamilton & Hirsheimer, 2009

--Tracy Schneider