Frank Bruni On Goat's Milk Butter: Four Stars!

After New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni gave Eleven Madison Park a four-star rating, he discussed in his blog, Diners Journal, exactly what it takes to earn four stars. Then he shared a few observations that he hadn't included in the original review.

The goat’s milk butter that’s served along with the cow’s milk butter for the bread is absolutely terrific, and makes me wonder why more restaurants that are already in the butter-with-bread business don’t do something similar. It makes a diner feel so much more indulged.

Why not, I thought, treat my own guests to a four-star experience with goat's milk butter? I scoured my local farmers market without success. No doubt that's because it takes a whole lot of goat's milk and an industrial separator (unlike cow's milk, goat's milk doesn't separate naturally) to make the butter. And small farms that make and sell artisanal goat cheese at farmers markets don't typically have large herds or extra capital.

Surprisingly, I did find goat's milk butter at the grocery store. I'm glad I did a bit of sampling before I actually served it. Some tasted more like goat stall butter. Fortunately, Meyenberg butter turned out to be delicious. The flavor was similar to cow's milk butter, but the finish had a slight chevre tang. Four stars! 

--Tracy Schneider

Comments

[Maria on August 18, 2009 at 05:35 AM]

I can recommend St. Helen's Farm Goat's Milk butte from England. Creamy, not too salty, delicious.

[dvd on September 24, 2009 at 02:39 AM]

First of all thanks for this wonderful article, We made butter from cow milk when I was a child. I thought it was a real treat to shake the large gallon size jar while chanting "come butter come". (lol). Now I know why mother was so eager to let me do it. Hard work!! Great Review on goat milk butter.