Julia and Julie: Yes, the Swap Is Intentional
July 15th I had the real pleasure of seeing a sneak preview of Julie & Julia. Tony Conway, owner of Legendary Events in Atlanta hosted an amazing Girls Night Out. Following cocktails and dinner, a group of about 400 women filed into the theater at Phipps Plaza. The movie doesn’t actually premiere until early August! The event itself was truly spectacular and a perfect example of why Tony Conway is regarded as one of the best in his business.
The movie was so charming that I left wanting to see it again. Based on true stories, Julie & Julia intertwines the lives of two women in a fascinating way. I am a huge Meryl Streep fan and she was amazing. She is such a chameleon and, of course, had Julia’s voice and mannerisms nailed.
But, it triggered something that’s been nagging me ever since.
First, the movie. In short, the plot is the story of a frustrated temporary secretary, Julie Powell, embarking on a year-long culinary quest to cook all 524 recipes in Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking. She chronicles her tribulations in a blog called “The Julie/Julia Project: Nobody here but us servantless American cooks.” The blog caught on and was eventually featured in a piece in the New York Times by food writer Amanda Hesser. Julie’s life was changed forever, her blog turned into a best-selling memoir, Nora Ephron wrote her screenplay, and now Amy Adams is playing her on the big screen.
The film, also covers the years Julia Child (Meryl Streep) and her husband Paul (Stanley Tucci) spent in Paris during the 1940s and 1950s. Their portion of the story was adapted from My Life in France, written by Julia Child with nephew Alex Prud’homme. Basically, this was the time when Julia became Julia, attended Le Cordon Bleu and met her collaborators Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle. They began to teach cooking to American women in the Child’s kitchen, calling their informal school L’Ecole des Trois Gourmandes. For the next decade, as the Childs moved around Europe and finally to their home in Cambridge, Massachusetts, the three researched, developed, and tested French recipes for the American kitchen. The result of this long collaboration was Mastering the Art of French Cooking edited by the imitable Judith Jones.
I promise this will eventually address the source of my irritation. Stick with me.
The first time I met Julia Child was at a book signing when I was in culinary school at L’Academie de Cuisine in DC. I stood there like a zombie in front of her, incapable of speech. A friend eventually jolted me out of my stupor and pushed me along.
After DC, I became an editorial stagiaire for Anne Willan at Ecole de Cuisine LaVarenne. I was supposed to be there for three months, but was there on and off for almost three years. Julia actually encouraged Anne to open the school. My first year I was working with none other than Amanda Hesser (see above), who at the time was also working on her first book, The Cook and the Gardener. During that time Julia would come to visit, staying weeks at a time. The staff at LaVarenne was predominantly young food-knowledge hungry Americans. We had grown up seeing her on TV and she was one of the reasons we were there in France. We would vacillate wildly from “OH MY G*D, IT’S JULIA CHILD” to complete nonchalance. It was normal. She was always very pleasant. I don’t remember why, but once at the dinner table, in her famous warbling voice she declared Eisenhower nothing more than a “big powder-puff." Sure wish I could remember the context…. One winter at the Food Writer’s Symposium at the Greenbrier we shared a suite. I treated her like my grandmother, made sure she didn’t forget her cane and carried her books. (That was a hoot! I’ll write about that some other time.)
Promise. It’s coming.
After France I moved to New York to work for Martha. I ran into Julia at food events, and that was pretty much the extent of it.
OK, here we go.
I also read the Julie/Julia Project blog and for a time, I followed Julie Powell. I was very intrigued by her nerve actually, of cooking the book. Pretty stiff stuff for an untrained cook. Good for her, I thought. What an undertaking. But one day she made a comment implying a recipe being wrong for roast chicken. I honestly don’t remember what it was, but it struck me as being so disrespectful, completely without deference to Julia Child, that I stopped. What the hell did she know about food? Had she even heard of poulet au Bresse? Didn’t go back. No malice. Just didn’t want to follow anymore.
That brings me back to the present. Wednesday night I watched the Julie & Julia movie.
“Had a lovely time, Tony, thanks so much for a lovely party.”
The next night I saw a link on Twitter from an older article from the New York Times. I clicked through and read. It was in my opinion, decent writing, good writing, but it wasn’t about food. It made me think it maybe needed to be in a blog. It was not appropriate on that stage, on that level. It was the damn New York Times!
To be clear, it was NOT written by Amanda Hesser.
And, then it all made sense. My underlying malaise.
People who happen to eat and are able to type are now our new food experts. The incredible proliferation and self-indulgent blabber of many food blogs has given people the freedom to hallucinate, “I can type and I eat, therefore I am a food journalist”!
Granted, Julie Powell did not present herself as a food expert. I am not saying she did, quite the contrary. It’s also not a case of sour grapes on my part. Bravo for her. Her food memoir was a best-seller. A rising tide floats all boats, and as a food writer, I wholeheartedly thank her.
I am not necessarily saying my writing is better. After all, who am I to question what is published in the New York Times? Of course, I recognize the irony that I am sharing this indeed in an aforementioned self-serving blog. But good grief, people who don’t know how to begin to roast a ding dang chicken without following a recipe can be our new, ahem, food experts? This makes me a bit sad and more than a bit aggravated.
The newspaper industry has starved itself to death. In the past two years 10 dailies have permanently stopped the presses. Indeed, the New York Times has been rumored to be circling the drain. The blogs and online content have taken over. The cookbook publishing industry took a hearty bite out of the poison apple, as well. The prerequisite to getting a cookbook published is brand and platform, not necessarily real food knowledge, editorial training, and a passionate commitment to test and develop recipes.
Face it: Julia Child would not be published today.
I had a meeting with a TV production company last year that possibly is interested in partnering on a TV cooking show. The producer told me the worst thing I had going for me is that I was trained and knew how to cook. Everyone who can wield a butter knife wants a TV cooking show. Seems the masses want entertainment, not education. Enough hair product and a sassy catchphrase seems to be sufficient.
Think about the food writers who spent their entire careers pursuing real food knowledge and good, sound, cooking fundamentals. Think about writers who wrote real literature that happened to be about food: Elizabeth David. MFK Fisher. Anne Willan. The real cooks and writers today, the real experts need to be heard, not just any food blogger armed with an iPhone.
On that note, I am sharing my recipe for Roast Chicken.
Bon Appétit!
VA
Herb Roast Chicken with Pan Sauce
Serves 4 to 6
Meme washed her chickens inside and out before cooking them, removing every last bit of fat, overlooked feathers, and any bruises, blemishes, or blood spots. She said if you didn’t, it tasted too “chickeny.” That bird was sanitized--or so she thought. I would never argue with Meme, but according to the USDA, washing chicken is not necessary. If the bird is contaminated, dangerous bacteria are not going to be affected by cold tap water. Washing the chicken actually increases the chance of cross-contamination; water that has touched raw chicken and splashed into the sink can potentially contaminate other food.
This recipe relies on a classic French preparation: stuffing the bird with aromatics, roasting it to perfection, and using the pan juices plus added shallots, wine, and stock to make a light sauce. There’s not a lot to cloud the plate or palate or mask a mistake. I will often order chicken, seemingly the most boring dish on the menu, when trying a new restaurant. Simple roast chicken is the test of a good cook.
1 (4- to 5-pound) chicken
1 teaspoon dried herbes de Provence
3 bay leaves, preferably fresh
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large lemon, quartered
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 large carrot, chopped
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
2 shallots, finely chopped
1/2 cup dry white wine
1-1/2 cups chicken stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into bits (optional)
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. To prepare the chicken, trim the excess fat from inside of the chicken cavity. Season the cavity with the herbes de Provence, bay leaves, salt, and pepper. Squeeze lemon juice into the cavity and then insert the used lemon quarters. Rub butter over the skin and season with salt and pepper. Tie the ends of the drumsticks together with kitchen twine. Set the chicken in a roasting pan, on a rack if you have one.
Roast the chicken for 15 minutes, then decrease the heat to 350 degrees F. Roast for an additional 15 minutes, then add the carrot and onion to the pan. Continue roasting, basting occasionally, until the juices run clear when the thickest part of the thigh is pierced with a knife, an additional 30 to 45 minutes. Remove the chicken to a cutting board and tent loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm. Using a slotted spoon, remove the vegetables to a warm platter and tent loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm.
To make the sauce, remove all but several tablespoons of the fat from the roasting pan and place the pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and saute, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until it is reduced by half, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and increase the heat to high, scraping the skillet with a wooden spoon to loosen the browned bits.
Cook until the sauce is slightly reduced, about 5 minutes more. Carve the chicken and pour any accumulated chicken juices from the cutting board into the roasting pan. Decrease the heat to medium. Whisk in the butter. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve the chicken with the sauce on the side.
From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories from Three Generations of Southern Cooking by Virginia Willis, copyright © 2008. Published by Ten Speed Press.
Virginia Willis Culinary Productions, LLC © 2009
Carolyn T at tastingspoons.com on July 29, 2009 at 06:29 PM
That was a very interesting "read." I'm anxious to see the movie because I have so much respect for Julia Child. Even more so after I read the memoir she and her nephew wrote. I wanted the book to keep going. On and on. I tried to read Julie Powell's book, and stopped reading it about 100 pages into it because of the foul language that spewed out of her mouth in nearly every sentence (and on her blog). I come from the school that says people who have to speak that way must not have the ability to say what they want to say unless they do. It's sad. At least it is to me. She seemed way too angry to me. Thank you for you perspective. and for what it's worth, I think you're right on.
Deborah on July 29, 2009 at 07:09 PM
Darling Virginia, I loved your story. I loved that you provided so much back story, and in fact, I suspect you must be a distant cousin because all my people take a long time to tell a story ;-)
I plan on cooking your Herb Roast Chicken with Pan Sauce, but I am stuck on the wine part. I don't know what kind of white wine to buy, and what do I do with the rest of it? Do I drink it while the chicken is cooking? Should I serve the rest of it with the chicken? Chilled? Room temperature? Can I stick the cork back in it and save it for another chicken dinner? Please advise.
Deborah
virginia willis on July 29, 2009 at 07:16 PM
Deborah - I can be a little long winded! Re the wine. Use a cheap and cheerful dry white such as a pinot grigio or a sauvignon blanc for around 12$. Don't ever cook with anything you don't want to drink, but there's no need to waste a white Burgundy on gravy! You can stick the cork back in it, but know that it may not hold up for weeks on end. Thanks for your kind words. Best VA
Karen on July 30, 2009 at 05:57 AM
I read the Julie & Julia book from cover to cover and feel that you missed the point. Not only did she not present herself as a food expert, she was not trying to be a "food blogger" although she was blogging about food. Of course she didn't know anything about food! That was the whole point of her project. This was about her personal journey, her challenge to find meaning and inspiration. Cooking just happened to be the vehicle for this journey. I understand your desire for the "real" cooks and food writers to be heard, but I do think your post comes across as "sour grapes" despite your stated intention otherwise.
JaguarJulie on July 30, 2009 at 07:04 AM
Virginia, I found your blog post through a tweet from a friend who is also a blogger and fellow lensmaster -- and someone who also occasionally writes about food and food recipes. Oh, that's me too! Well, my dear -- you have such a captivating style. For me, I was intrigued by Julie Powell's story -- that she would be a blogger, and seemingly non-foodie expert who would come up with an idea -- an idea to spend one year writing about her experiences trying to master Julia Child's book. Then to fathom the notion that her blog project would lead to a book and then a movie? Well that is remarkable indeed. You know, I could see it happening to you Virginia!
Judebe on July 30, 2009 at 01:25 PM
Regarding what wine, didn't Julia used to say use vermouth?
virginia willis on July 31, 2009 at 06:54 AM
Either white wine or vermouth could be used. One of Julia's recipes for roast chicken suggests either one. Vermouth can be very handy in the kitchen since it is more shelf stable than wine. Either would make a delicious sauce for the chicken. Best VA
Patrick on July 31, 2009 at 01:13 PM
Well.
It is sad that people who can type and eat are listened to...
It is so sad.
Now, you are writing a blog. This is a form that brings the glories of the many to the debate of the many. It is not in any way a filtered, peer-reviewed, or elite form of communication.
Your malaise comes from the lack of respect you get. You worked hard to get respect, and now you want it, and the damn world is full of cooks.
But you have not earned the respect, I would submit. Your blog post is wordly, self-involved, and jejune. Your malaise is misplaced and snobbish. And among the many good points, you levy a tax of unpleasantness on the reader.
I would suggest that the reason it took you so long to actually make your point was not the cutesy writing, it was your own dawning recognition that your point was unworthy.
Sorry for taking you so seriously on a food blog.
Dick on July 31, 2009 at 01:32 PM
I, too, read the book and was wholly unimpressed. I had expected a cooking book, but instead I read of how she tried to get past writer's block by cooking. There was precious little about the various things she cooked - simply something like, "I made steak frites today." I was disappointed. Clearly the tie into Julia Child was something of a piggyback on a celebrity. I wonder if Ms. Child liked the fact that Julie made use of Julia's celebrity to make a pretty penny? I'd think not.
Bonnie on July 31, 2009 at 01:44 PM
I read "My Life in France" and was enchanted enough to obtain a copy of "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" and go on to cook many of the recipes in my home kitchen. More than once for most of them as they take time and practice to perfect - remember how many times Julia took to get the perfect recipe for roast chicken? So, heard about the movie and was very excited to read "Julie and Julia" before the film was released. My enthusiasm for seeing the movie diminished paged by page as Julie is not as attractive in her book as she is in the movie trailer. Will still see the film, probably on cable or DVD.
R. Hunter Oates on July 31, 2009 at 01:55 PM
Is it bad of me that I'm totally uninterested in Julie Powell's story and want the entire movie to be about Julia Child?
Is a biopic too much to ask for?
Teresa on July 31, 2009 at 02:24 PM
I shall have to try your recipe - it looks wonderful. My only problem is that my oven is a convection oven that came with the house we bought 3 years ago. Sadly I had spent 30+ years prior to that using a conventional oven, so I still have trouble when looking at recipes trying to figure out how it will convert to this thing in my kitchen. However, even if I botch it once or twice, I think the house will smell wonderful. :-)
As for the movie, my husband and I were watching a preview of it. Surprisingly he turned to me and said he wondered if there were any dvd's of Julia herself floating around out there and he would prefer to watch those instead. Never having thought of it before, I am now trying to decide which of the many offered at Amazon that I will buy.
jdb on July 31, 2009 at 04:18 PM
Was I the only one who flashed back to Ratatouille (the movie) while reading this snit-fit?
These days, you're probably better off not being noticed by the Times, given how far they've sunk.
Kathy from Austin on August 01, 2009 at 10:17 AM
I hate to sound like a ding dong and I am a pretty darn good cook (note: not Chef) but what in the world are "herbes de Provence?"
I would like to try this recipe, but will need some clarification on that ingredient.
Thanks and great post!
Bill Woods on August 03, 2009 at 06:23 PM
An established mixture of spices. See
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herbes_de_Provence
virginia bed and breakfast on August 04, 2009 at 02:21 AM
I like the book so much it covers all the aspects of good cooking and
provides many nice suggestions and information all the girls and women out here in US.It tells a good story how julia started writing
cooking books and got acceptance all over.
Many girls and women would learn many things from this book. New recipes are included for food lovers.
jeux d action on September 24, 2009 at 04:11 AM
This was a gift -- requested and much anticipated. I'm sorry my son wasted his money on my behalf. Yes, I'm a "foodie," and foodies are going to be as disappointed as I was in this book. I'm also an avid reader, and the premise of this book was irresistable. Ugh! I had to force myself to finish it. It had absolutely nothing to do with food, as I know and love it; it was all about the author, her dysfunctional husband/friends, her wretched living conditions, and her frequent alcoholic binges. Julia Child (whom I met more than once in my youth, since she was an acquaintance of my mother) was right to wash her hands of the whole thing. I'm donating my copy to the library. I would NEVER pass it along to a friend!
Baird on March 06, 2011 at 09:37 PM
Roast the chicken for 15 minutes, then decrease the heat to 350 degrees F. Roast for an additional 15 minutes, then add the carrot and onion to the pan.