Burger Cookbook Throwdown--Bobby Flay Vs. Burger Bar
The Challenger
Hubert Keller is the host of PBS's Secrets of a Chef and, along with two other non-burger restaurants, is the owner of Burger Bar in Las Vegas, St. Louis, and San Francisco. His new book is called "Burger Bar: Build Your Own Ultimate Burger."
The Champ
Bobby Flay is the host of Food Network's Throwdown with Bobby Flay, an Iron Chef, and owner of various restaurants around the country. He opened his first Bobby's Burger Palace in July 2008 in Smithtown, New York. His new cookbook is called "Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries, and Shakes."
The Ground Rules
Both books have recipes for garnishes, sauces, onion rings, etc., but I decided to focus this throwdown only on the burgers, potato-based fries, and milkshakes. My judging criteria boiled down to "would I make this for a group of friends?" For burgers, I wanted them to be something that everyone was going to like, wouldn't cost me too much money, and wouldn't take too long to make. Afterall, I'm just making burgers--I shouldn't need a Cordon Bleu degree and a loan. The fries needed to be crisp and golden and the shakes, thick and rich.
The Burgers
Both books feature 32 burger recipes. While Keller's Burger Bar has more diversity--including four veggie burgers--Bobby's burgers are more accessible and are relatively easy to make. During my first look through Keller's recipes, I kept thinking about how French some of them seemed. Turns out he's French. Keller's recipes are more complex and include some harder-to-find ingredients. How many of you have easy access to black truffles and brioche a tete? Also, some of his burgers include pricey ingredients. The "Surf and Turf Burger" calls for lobster tails; another calls for ground New York strip steak and congnac. If I had some lobster tails, New York strip steaks, and Cognac I really doubt I'd use them in a burger. Interestingly, both books have a "Breakfast Burger". Bobby's is logical and delicious--ground beef, bacon, eggs, and shoestring fries. Keller's is, according him, "a quiche without the crust." Enough said. Keller does have some easier burgers like the very tasty "Pesto Beef Burger". But in the end, all of Bobby Flay's burgers met each one of my not-so-lofty requirements.
Advantage: Bobby Flay
The Fries
This was an easy decision. Both had "Perfect Fries" and "Oven Fries" recipes. While the recipes were very similar, Keller's Oven Fries edged out Bobby's. Unfortunately for Keller, he only has those two potato-based fries while Bobby has four others. C'mon Hubert, where's your sweet potato fries?
Advantage: Bobby Flay
The Desserts
Bobby's dessert section focuses entirely on milkshakes. There are 17 mouthwatering recipes. All are fairly easy to make (a common theme across the entire book). I'm a basic chocolate milkshake guy, but I was floored by the Blackberry Cheesecake milkshake. You put cream cheese in it! Yeah, wrap your mind around that for a sec. Burger Bar came up short with only one milkshake recipe. Sure, it's a decadently rich chocolate shake that made me shed a tear of joy, but my guests might need a little more variety. Don't they have malt in France?
Advantage: Bobby Flay
The Winner
Bobby Flay, overwhelmingly. His book is straightforward and appeals more to the average burger lover who wants to take his or her burgers to the next level. This is what Bobby does best--he takes a dish and make a really good version of it. He doesn't try to make a burger into something it's not or make something that's not a burger into a burger. That's why this book is a success in every way. Bobby's book is for people who don't want to spend a lot of time prepping or buying exotic ingredients and simply want to impress their friends with a darn tasty burger and a killer milkshake.
Keller does have some interesting recipes for those with a more adventurous palate so I encourage everyone to conduct their own throwdown with these books.
--Spanno
Slow John on May 07, 2009 at 01:12 PM
My wife saw Bobby Flay on a morning news program promoting his book and was inspired to go out and get it. We are looking forward to making some great burgers. Thanks for the throwdown. It's nice to see Bobby Flay win one. He usually loses on his own Throwdown show.
Dan on May 07, 2009 at 04:58 PM
I don't know if it's in his book, but we made some cuban style pressed burgers from Bobby Flay's TV show that were un-frickin-beliveable.
Spanno on May 07, 2009 at 05:01 PM
Yes, that one is in the book. I haven't made it yet, but it looks amazing.
--Spanno
Jane on May 07, 2009 at 06:43 PM
This post was so timely for me! I'd been trying to decide whether I needed to add Bobby Flay's newest book to my collection, and you made the decision much easier. I'll be picking it up at the nearest bookstore tomorrow!
janelle on February 21, 2010 at 11:03 AM
my futer goal is to be a chef i wanted to know what do i have to do to become one