Braiden Rex-Johnson's Tips for Exploring Georgian Wines
As a worthwhile (and fun!) New Year’s resolution, I suggested we all experiment with wines from different regions. Today, I’d like to share my first “find,” an exciting “new” wine region: Georgia.
Now I’m not talking about the all-American, peach-blossom, “Georgia on My Mind” kind of Georgia, but the republic in the former Soviet Union that made headlines last August when Russia invaded it.
In the perfect world, we’d all know a lot about Georgian wines, since archeological research has dug up evidence of viticulture in the Caucasus region as far back as 7,000 years. Some experts even feel the word “wine” comes from the Georgian word, “gvino.”
The country also boasts a whopping 500 grape varietals! Leading whites include Katsiteli, Mtsvane, Tsinandali, and Kisi. Saperavi is the leading red, and sparkling wines and Brandy are also produced.
Something that sets apart wines produced in eastern Georgia from most other wine regions in the world is the use of kvevri, or qvevri, for fermentation. The large earthenware vessels, a.k.a. amphorae, are buried in the ground, sealed, and the wine within is left for several months to mature naturally. The kvevri add dark highlights to white wines (often giving them a Sherry-colored tinge) and Old World aromas of earth and musk. They are really intriguing wines to try.
It’s only within the past couple of years that Georgian wines were available outside of Georgia and the former Soviet Union. Now, with a broader global network, Georgian wines are beginning to make their mark around the world.
Georgian cuisine is legendary. It includes fresh, seasonal vegetables (many organically grown) and wild herbs; pomegranate-and-vegetable patés; Georgian cheese bread; sour-plum sauces; grilled meats; and meat dumplings. Here in the States, I’ve enjoyed Georgian-inspired dishes such as Chicken Skewers with Walnut-Pomegranate Sauce; Green Bean Salad with Walnuts, Cilantro, and Pomegranate; and Polenta Cakes with Garlic Eggplant.
For home cooks who want to try their hand with Georgian cuisine, here’s a simple sauce that is best served over sautéed white fish (such as halibut or cod) or grilled, hearty fish (such as albacore tuna, swordfish, or sturgeon). It’s equally tempting when partnered with simply prepared chicken, duck, or game birds, and one of the Georgian wines recommended below.
Time to give thanks (gmadlobt) and cheers (gaumarjos) to the joys of Georgian wines!
Georgian Walnut Sauce (Baje)
Ingredients:
1-3/4 cups water
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
1/2 pound (about 2 cups) walnuts
2 cloves garlic, peeled and halved
1 jalapeño pepper, stem removed and coarsely chopped
1-1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
1-1/2 teaspoons ground fenugreek
1-1/2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1-1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt
Directions:
1. In a small saucepan, combine 1 cup of the water and the saffron and bring to a boil. Stir to dissolve the saffron, remove from the heat, and allow the liquid to cool.
2. Place the walnuts, garlic, jalapeño, coriander, and fenugreek in a food processor or blender and pulse until a paste forms, scraping down the sides of the container as needed to redistribute the mixture. Add the vinegar and process briefly.
3. With the machine running, pour in the saffron mixture and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Taste and add the remaining salt, if desired. The sauce should be thick; if necessary add the additional 3/4 cup water 1 tablespoon at a time until the desired texture is achieved.
4. Use immediately, or pour the sauce into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.
Makes about 2 cups
Recommended Georgian Wines:
Mildiani Family Winery 2006 Katsiteli: A white-wine blend of 80% Katsiteli and 20% Mtsvane (a combination also known as Tsinandali, which is considered the pride of Georgian wines), Katsiteli is pale straw in color with hints of peach; boasts a full, aromatic nose; sweet aromas and flavors of new-mown grass, almonds, and vanilla; and a hint of sweetness on the long, balanced finish. Definitely a keeper!
- Vinoterra Winery 2006 Kisi: Dark straw and clear in color, Kisi is fermented in kvevri and matured in oak, which results in a wine redolent with nutty, dried-apricot aromas and flavors. It finishes clean, with just a hint of spice.
- Vinoterra Winery 2003 Saperavi: Georgia’s noble red varietal, Saperavi, is served up bold and bone-dry after initial fermentation in kvevri and final fermentation in oak. Even with just 13% alcohol, this deeply hued, richly textured wine packs a punch with abundant dark-berry and pomegranate flavors and wisps of smoke and coffee on the finish.
- Mildiani Family Winery 2005 Saperavi: Lighter on the palate than Vinoterra’s Saperavi and also clocking in at 13% alcohol, Mildiani’s version offers brighter fruit (sour cherries and rhubarb) and a hint of pepper, while still remaining bone-dry and complex.
Photo of Braiden by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon
debra on March 11, 2009 at 04:24 PM
Awesome post, Braiden. Since I can't travel to Georgia, I will let some of your wine recommendations transport me there. It's affordable tourism with a wine glass in hand.
Thanks!
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