The Thanksgiving Yardstick, and a Fool-Proof Gravy Guide
We measure Thanksgiving success by many yardsticks. "I didn’t poison anybody (I think)" and "the family didn’t come to blows" sit at one end of the yardstick; "achieving culinary nirvana" is the rather self-centered extreme on the other end.
My measure, beyond the social side, is gravy. I know the big sell is always the turkey, and I like a bronzed behemoth as much as the next woman, but let’s face it, that turkey is only a vehicle, a carrier of the truly grand flavors of the feast--all those great sides. And the one thing that corrals them all into perfect harmony, their essential catalyst, is the gravy.
Gravy seems tough because if you want the best, you need the pan juices from the turkey. This means pulling it together at the same time as you’re getting everything else on the table. But there is a solution.
The bird will be juicier if it rests at room temperature 20 minutes or so. So as soon as it comes out of the oven, you can slip the sides that need reheating into the oven and use the stove top to make the gravy in the roasting pan.
Two keys make for extraordinary gravy: First, if each part of the recipe tastes rich and complex, the gravy has to be good. Boiling down to intensify flavors is essential. Second, this gravy is indestructible. You can reheat it and freeze it, so make as much as possible.
The Splendid Table® Great Gravy Guide
Makes about 3 cups gravy
1. Start by Doing Gravy Broth (do this up to two days ahead, and use organic ingredients if you can):
Place the turkey neck, giblets and wing tips in a 4- to 6-quart saucepan. (This could be done a day ahead, or right after the bird goes into the oven.)
Add 1 carrot, 1 stalk celery, 1 large onion, and 3 unpeeled cloves garlic, all chopped. Scatter 3 whole cloves, 2 bay leaves, a heaping tablespoon tomato paste and a few generous squirts of Asian fish sauce (about 1/2 teaspoon). This opens up other flavors.
Cover by 2 inches with 1/2 bottle white wine (inexpensive sauvignon blanc, fume blanc, or pinot grigio), 2-1/2 cups homemade or canned chicken broth, and water as needed to cover everything.
Simmer, partially covered, 2 to 3 hours. Broth will reduce. Keep the solids covered with a little liquid. Once the broth is rich tasting, strain it. If holding more than an hour or so, refrigerate.
2. Once Turkey Is Done, Make the Pan Gravy:
For rich tasting pan gravy, skip additions like Kitchen Bouquet, or salt. Instead, put the turkey juices to work. Place the turkey on a platter, tent it with foil and keep warm (it will be juicier for the rest). Skim fat from the pan juices.
Set roasting pan over 2 high-heat burners. Starting boiling down pan juices, scraping up any browned bits with a spatula (you could add 1/2 cup red wine, tawny port, or Madeira at this point). Bring the juices down to a syrupy consistency.
Then gradually add the strained broth, a cup at a time. After 3 to 4 cups, continue boiling and stirring until you have 2 to 3 cups rich, deep flavored liquid.
3. No Lumps, Great Taste (it is all in the slurry):
As liquid simmers, take a tall glass, add one generous tablespoon flour. Avoid lumps by using a fork to gradually beat in 1/2 cup cold water. Beat until there are no lumps. You’ve made a slurry.
Once the pan liquid is rich tasting, whisk in the slurry. Boil and stir until gravy is smooth and thick enough to lightly coat a spoon.
Now taste it. If you taste raw flour, simmer another minute. Season with salt and/or pepper if necessary, pour into a sauce boat and serve. Leftover gravy reheats beautifully.
Photo by Ann Marsden
Sarita on November 20, 2008 at 06:23 PM
Off topic...where did you get the big candle for the 3d cupcake you made?
CABAL RMT on February 11, 2011 at 10:27 PM
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