The Right Answer? “All of the Above” (A Trio of Purées)
When it comes to planning a holiday menu, professional chefs and home cooks have something in common: the first thing we need to do is make some big choices. Personally, I find that deciding what to include or not include on a holiday dinner table is a more daunting task than it is the rest of the year because many people make very strong food associations with the holidays: there are certain elements that, for them, are almost essential to enjoying the experience.
Take, for example, Thanksgiving. After the turkey, stuffing, and cranberry relish, there’s perhaps no more expected element than sweet potato. Some home cooks are happy to comply with this tradition, though they worry about boring the savvy “foodies” on their guest list, while others like to shake things up a little and surprise their dinner companions, many of whom may be delighted by a break from convention.
So what’s the right answer?
In my opinion, it can often be “all of the above.” In my new cookbook Chanterelle: The Story and Recipes of a Restaurant Classic, I include "A Trio of Purées" in the "Side Dishes and Accompaniments" chapter. Comprising beet, parsnip, and sweet potato purées, this offering is one that I dare say will delight and surprise guests to your table from Thanksgiving--where it meets the sweet potato expectation, while adding two “bonus” components--right through the end of winter, especially because all three purées get along great with duck and venison, two of the most popular seasonal offerings.
In addition to presenting a range of complementary flavors, the trio of purées makes a stunning visual impression. They can also be made in advance and kept warm (see recipe for instructions). And, if you only want to serve one purée, either on plated, composed dishes, or family-style from a buffet, simply triple the recipe for that purée.
A Trio of Purées
Serves 4
Beet Purée
3 medium to large red beets (about 1 1/2 pounds total)
2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
Kosher salt
Black pepper from a mill
Makes 1 cup
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Wash the beets, pat dry with paper towels, and rub with the oil. Wrap them individually in aluminum foil, set them on a baking sheet, and bake until soft and easily pierced with a paring knife, about 2 hours.
Remove from the oven and let the beets cool. When cool enough to handle, remove the foil and peel the beets, scraping off the skin with the back of a knife or a clean kitchen towel.
Cut the beets into 1-inch chunks and puree in a blender, adding a little water if necessary to help the blade catch. Pass the purée through a fine-mesh strainer set over a small saucepan. Add the butter and heat the purée over medium heat, stirring to just melt the butter and warm the mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If the purée still seems loose, cook, stirring, for 2 or 3 minutes more, until it becomes thick enough to hold together in a quenelle.
Parsnip Purée
Kosher salt
12 ounces parsnips (3 to 4 parsnips)
1 medium Idaho potato (about 8 ounces)
1 tablespoon heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
White pepper from a mill
Makes 1 cup
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Peel the parsnips and potato and cut into 1-inch chunks. Add to the boiling water and cook until very tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain in a colander and let sit in the sink to steam and dry for 5 minutes.
Wipe out the pot and pass the parsnip chunks through a fine-mesh strainer into the pot. Add the cream and butter and heat over medium heat, stirring, to just melt the butter and warm the mixture, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.
Sweet Potato Purée
2 large sweet potatoes (about 2 pounds total)
2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
Kosher salt
Black pepper from a mill
Makes 1 cup
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Wash the potatoes, pat dry with paper towels, and rub with the oil. Place on a baking sheet and bake until soft and easily pierced with a paring knife, about 1 1/4 hours. Remove from the oven and let the potatoes cool. Cut them in half lengthwise and scoop the potato from the skins. Discard the skins.
Pass the potato through a fine-mesh strainer set over a small saucepan. Add the butter and heat the puree over medium heat, stirring to just melt the butter and warm the mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Comments