Mark Bittman’s 45-Minute Turkey
When it comes to holiday cooking, I imagine your goals and mine are the same--to make good food for celebrations and gatherings of family and friends without going nuts. But even the most modest Thanksgiving meal takes four times as much energy as an average dinner, if not more. You’ll be serving more people than usual, and more courses than usual. And, for many of us, one of those courses will be a turkey. (Of course, you can buck tradition and still have a wonderful meal; I've eaten everything from crown roast of pork to rice and beans at Thanksgiving.)
The vision of a table laden with harvest-season delights is a beguiling one, but remember that the more courses you prepare, the greater the logistics of maneuvering all that food through the limits of your oven, refrigerator, and counter space in such a way that everything finishes together. So, my primary piece of advice: Do not be overly ambitious. A six-course Thanksgiving meal at which everyone is happy is far better, regardless of the food, than a twelve-course meal at which the host has a nervous breakdown. We’ve all seen that happen.
Choosing a turkey presents a similar contrast between what looks impressive and what’s realistic. Bigger may seem better, but your basic Thanksgiving-sized turkey (say, twelve pounds or more? maybe twenty in your case?) is way too big to mess around with. For many of us, just getting a pan big enough to hold the thing is an issue, and figuring how to turn something whose size is about the same as that of your nephew is not most people’s idea of a good yearly activity. (Myself, I’d rather be out cleaning roof gutters.)
This recipe for 45-Minute Roast Turkey simplifies the process enormously. (Don’t let removing the backbone intimidate you; it’s not that difficult.) Unorthodox though it may sound, you’ll thank me: It will be done in about 40 minutes. Really. It will also be more evenly browned, more evenly cooked, and moister than a conventionally roasted bird. It only works for small turkeys (8 to 12 pounds) but, again, that makes it easier to handle. And it will still serve 10 at least, and more if you’re all OK with eating less meat--something I recommend anyway.
45–Minute Roast Turkey
MAKES: At least 10 servings
TOTAL TIME: 45 minutes
One 8- to 12-pound turkey
10 or more garlic cloves, lightly crushed
Several sprigs fresh tarragon or thyme or several pinches dried
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil or melted butte
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Put the turkey on a stable cutting board, breast side down, and cut out the backbone (use a heavy knife to cut on each side of the backbone, cutting from front to rear). Turn the bird over and press on it to flatten. Put it breast side up in a roasting pan that will accommodate it (a slightly snug fit is okay). The wings should partially cover the breasts, and the legs should protrude a bit.
2. Tuck the garlic and the herb under the bird and in the nooks of the wings and legs. Drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper.
3. Roast for 20 minutes, undisturbed. By this time the bird should be browning; remove it from the oven, baste with the pan juices, and return it to the oven. Reduce the heat to 400°F (or 350°F if it seems to be browning very quickly).
4. Begin to check the bird’s temperature about 15 minutes later (10 minutes if the bird is on the small side). It is done when the thigh meat measures 155–165°F on an instant-read meat thermometer; check it in a couple of places.
5. Let the bird rest for a few minutes before carving, then serve with the garlic cloves and pan juices. (Or make gravy.) Or serve at room temperature.
Andrea on November 18, 2008 at 04:41 PM
I'm sure it's terrific, but my family would shoot me if they didn't get a bird with stuffing, which is what Thanksgiving is really all about (National Stuffing & Mashed Potatoes With Gravy Day). Besides, those grocery store turkeys with the chemical water shot through 'em are pretty tasty if roasted in a graniteware roaster, and nothing could be easier to make.
Kelly on November 18, 2008 at 05:00 PM
I ran across this very same recipe several years ago in a magazine and figured I would never try it. I was going to a friend's house for thanksgiving and she requested that I fry a turkey to supplement the larger one she was doing in her turkey roaster. On the day of thanksgiving I pulled out the deep fryer and discovered some of the key pieces, such as the basket, were missing. The culprit (my husband) was in Iraq, so no way to ask him where all the parts were hidden. I began to panic because I was pressed for time, than I remembered this recipe. Not only did it work, but it beat the slow roasted turkey to pieces in flavor and tenderness. I'd much rather have my dressing in a seperate pan anyway.
Frank on November 18, 2008 at 05:22 PM
That's called a spatchcocked or butterflied turkey i think. And some heavy duty shears are certainly a must to cut through each side of the backbone. :-)
Papa Ray on November 18, 2008 at 05:33 PM
Yep, this is a good way of cooking a turkey or any other large bird.
I've been around long enough to see almost everyway of fixing a holiday turkey or hens and if you do it right everybody loves you. But screw it up and you won't be asked to fix it again.
I like my turkeys smoked, fried or baked, just as long as they are cooked thru and tender and not dry.
Remember the bags that you can buy to stick your bird in? Then into the oven. That is a good trick to use if your in a hurry. Just like this recipe start off hotter than usual (about 450 degrees), and then after about an hour or so, cut the bag and baste and lower the temp about fifty degrees. If you want you can turn the bird while in the bag for half of that hour, it is a lot less mess. Be careful when cutting the bag, super hot steam comes out. After browning and basting, cover and let sit until carving in an oven at about 170 degrees.
In my opinion, when the meat is falling off the bone its the way I like it. Don't forget to take the drippings (spoon off the grease) and get some flour and spices and make your gravy. Gravy goes with turkey, no two ways about it.
I like that fancy mashed potatoes with sour cream and cream cheese too, and yes, I like my dressing in a pan so I can crisp up the top and only cook it long enough to be done, not dried out nor soppy.
Happy Holidays everyone. I hope the best for all of you.
Papa Ray
West Texas
USA
jaymaster on November 18, 2008 at 05:33 PM
Although I often smoke my turkeys, I always “de-back” them. Chickens too, usually. Leads to much quicker and more even cooking.
And a good set of semi-clean (no oil) tin snips work great for performing the operation. .
One more tip: the back bone, giblets, neck, and wing tips make an excellent base for a stock. Or stick them in the fridge until the carcass is picked over, and use it all. Yummy!
jack burton on November 18, 2008 at 07:47 PM
Basically a spatchcocked turkey done the easy way. For a slightly better way of doing it check this out.
http://hubpages.com/hub/Spatchcocked-Turkey-The-newest-trend-for-Thanksgiving-Dinner
SmokyGator on November 19, 2008 at 10:31 AM
A turkey is not done when the thigh meat is "155-165F." The thigh should be at least 170F or it will have an off (metallic) flavor. The turkey thigh temp will rise a few degrees after it is removed from the grill (~5F). Shooting for a breast temperature of 153F will give you juicy meat, as will brining the turkey before the cook.
Cooking the turkey at high temperatures (above 390F) leads to the production of carcinogenic heterocyclic amines, which will be present in the pan juices. I wouldn't baste with those juices or use them to make a gravy. If you do, make sure you consume fresh fruit and/or vegetables with your meal. They will bind most of the HCAs and prevent their absorption from the GI tract. Microwaving the turkey for 2 minutes prior to cooking would destroy most of the HCA precursors, decreasing HCA formation by roughly 90%.
For a juicy turkey start the cook at 475F breast side down for 20 minutes BEING SURE TO SLIDE A PADDLE OR SPATULA UNDER THE BREAST EVERY 5 MINUTES TO PREVENT STICKING. Turn turkey breast side up and lower temperature to 350F. For good browning baste with a mixture of 1/2 stick butter + 3T dark brown corn syrup.
The traditional way of cooking at 325F leaves poultry too dry. Try the SmokyGator method. You'll be glad you did.
Julia on November 29, 2008 at 01:21 PM
I watched the video on Wednesday and then had my friends watch around 10:30am on Thanksgiving Day. If they said NO to the idea then there was still time to get the big bird (17#) cooked by 5pm. Well, we decided to go for it and we figured we'd play it safe and put the bird in by 3pm. I believe I did something that caused the cooking time to change dramatically; I placed a foil tent over the bird that was open on two ends. I believe this kept the bird from getting seared right off and ultimately causing my cooking time to take longer. As it was it only took 2 hours instead of 4/5. At the 1.5 mark we cut into the bird and found the breast cooked but the thighs and legs to not be done so, we cut the thighs and legs away from the bird, took the breast out of the oven and returned the thighs and legs to cook for a half an hour more. It all turned out tasty. However, I found the experience to be a bit stressful not understanding really if my tent caused the bird to cook so unevenly or that it took as long as it should've with its size. Does anyone have any ideas?
Kate Simpson on January 01, 2009 at 09:11 AM
Dear Mr. Bittman
I followed your turkey in 45 minutes recipe on New Year's Eve and can happily report that it worked like a charm. It was the best turkey I have ever eaten and the easiest to make. I have cooked at least 54 large turkeys over a lifetime, and I am considered to be a good cook. I do know how to keep a turkey moist but the long cooking destroys flavor, which is not the case with your recipe. So, as you instruct, I flattened a nine pound bird, seasoned it after oiling, made dressing on the side, and bingo, 35 minutes later it was done. You are brilliant. Thank you so very much. I love your videos as well.
Kate
Kate Simpson on January 01, 2009 at 09:32 AM
P.S. from Kate to Mark Bittman
heterocyclic amines form in all meats when they are seared or grilled. Steak is a good example, or cajun fish that is "blackened" So what? Smokeygator needs to get a life. He is also wrong about the interior temperature for cooking bone-in fowl. I live in France and we eat duck rare, just like steak, which we sear as well. I also noticed the posts about tenting a turkey. This is only fine after a dark golden color has formed, to cook the meat but prevent burning if you have a bird above 13 pounds. Tenting can create the risk of steaming the bird, which toughens the meat. Ditto for bagging a bird...not recommended if you want flavor, true moistness, and tender meat. The flattened method seems like the blue ribbon winner to me.
Nancy H. on January 01, 2009 at 11:39 AM
I have butterflied turkeys and chickens for roasting for several years. Today, New Years Day, I am roasting a turkey and will use your seasonings. My family and friends always praise the moistness of my turkeys prepared this way. In addition to producing moist white meat, this method saves energy costs by roasting the turkey faster.