Ribs: Mike Mills Style

So, we’ve touched on Texas, and North Carolina. Now how about a little rib action? I have never met a man, woman, or child who isn’t crazy about my good friend and rib master Mike Mills. 

I first met Mike on the banks of the Mississippi. It was my first year at the Memphis in May International Barbecue Contest and, as it turned out, it was his last year competing. I was a neophyte and he was the Grand Master. That year, he won his final Grand Championship and retired from competing.

That same year, I had my barbecue epiphany. It was the first time I ever had real pit-cooked ribs. I couldn’t believe how sweet and succulent and smoky they were. At that time, most rib restaurants steamed their ribs until they fell off the bone and then slathered them with sweet sauce—often accented with liquid smoke. And as hard as it is to believe, even today a lot of restaurants prepare ribs this way.

The best news of course is that you can make them yourself on a backyard grill or go to restaurants that use actual smokers and slow cook the meat before serving. This brings me back to Mike. In his retirement from the barbecue circuit, Mike has worked even harder to spread the good word of championship ribs. He operates 7 restaurants in southern Illinois (17th Street Bar and Grill) and Las Vegas (Memphis Championship Barbecue) and he consults with Blue Smoke in NYC. In his spare time, he runs a “best of the best,” barbecue contest in Murphysboro, Ill., and cooks at special events like the Big Apple BBQ Block Party. If you are ever anywhere close to any of these venues, you must stop by for a chat and a chew of his award-winning ribs.

In the meantime, here's a recipe for his trophy-winning rub and a recipe for making the ribs in your own backyard. Mike uses apple wood for his ribs, and I have to agree that the apple wood makes a big difference in the sweetness of his ribs. Use a low heat (about 275-300°F) to cook the ribs and take them out when they feel done. It may take you a little longer or a little less time than the recipe states.

The ribs should have a mahogany color, a nice dark crust, and a little “spring” to the meat when you fold the rack back on itself. You should be able to tear the bones apart, but you still want some “chew.” If the bone slips out easily, without any meat on the bone, the ribs are over-cooked. Finally, no matter what you do, never, ever, par-cook the ribs in a pot/pan of water. That technique will remove all the fat, and fat is flavor! Besides stripping the ribs of all of it’s flavor and color—the meat will turn grey—you’ll have one horrible pot to wash.

Happy ribbing!

Mike Mills’ Magic Dust
Mike says, "You'll want to keep some in a shaker next to the grill or stove. Keeps indefinitely but won't last long."

Yields about 2 ½ cups

½    cup paprika
¼    cup kosher salt, finely ground
¼    cup sugar
2     tablespoons mustard powder
¼    cup chili powder
¼    cup ground cumin
2    tablespoons ground black pepper
¼    cup granulated garlic
2     tablespoons cayenne

Combine paprika, salt, sugar, mustard powder, chili powder, cumin, pepper, garlic and cayenne in a medium-size bowl and mix well. Extra rub can be stored in an airtight container for up to six months.

Championship Backyard Ribs
Serves 4 to 8
Grilling Method: Indirect/Medium-Low Heat
4     slabs ribs, about 2 pounds each
1/4     cup spice rub
1    cup mop, optional
1    cup favorite barbecue sauce, optional
    Apple wood chips, soaked in water for 30 minutes, optional

Build a charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill. Set up your grill for indirect heat and if using wood chips, place the soaked chips directly on the charcoal or in the smoking box of a gas grill. 

Remove the silver skin from the back of the ribs, if desired. [Note: I used to remove the silver skin, but now I leave it on for 3 reasons. First, many butchers cut the meat so close to the bone that you can see the bone when the ribs are raw (this is called “bone shine,”). As the ribs cook, the meat recedes from the bone and your rack can fall apart. Second, when the silver skin pulls away from the ribs and is shiny and stiff like parchment paper, usually your rack is done. Third, some people love to eat the crispy membrane once it is cooked.]

Pat the ribs dry with paper towels. Sprinkle the ribs liberally with spice rub and let them sit, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes. Do not “RUB” the spice mixture into the meat as this can damage the meat fibers.

Place the ribs, bone-side down, in the center of the cooking grate or in a rib holder/rack, over indirect medium-low heat. Grill, covered, (at about 275-300°F, if your grill has a thermometer) for 2 to 2 1/2 hours or until the meat is tender and has pulled back from the ends of the rib bones.

Leave ribs untended for the first 45 minutes—this means no peeking; especially important if you’re using wood chips. After the first 60 minutes, if using a mop, baste the ribs with the mopping sauce every 20 minutes. If the ribs start to burn on the edges, stack them on top of one another in the very center of the grill and lower the heat slightly; 15 minutes before serving, un-stack the ribs if necessary and brush with the “finishing” barbecue sauce.

Remove the ribs from the grill and place them on a clean platter. Let them rest for 5-10 minutes before cutting into individual or 2 to 3 rib portions.

While the ribs rest, warm any remaining sauce in a saucepan. Serve the ribs hot, with sauce on the side.