Al Dente

Easter Eats: Lemon Custard Cakes

With the first day of spring behind us, it's time for lighter tasting desserts. And, what better flavor and color to bring to the Easter table than tangy, bright yellow lemons. I've been storing this recipe in my e-mail recipe folder for years--it's from Martha Stewart. I prefer to eat these citrusy sweets warmer than room temperature, but that's probably an indication of my patience level.

Lemon Custard Cakes

Ingredients:
Unsalted butter, room temperature, for custard cups
3 large eggs, separated
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 to 3 teaspoons grated lemon zest, (1 lemon)
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1 cup milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
Confectioners' sugar, for dusting

Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Set a kettle of water to boil. Butter six 6-ounce custard cups and place in a dish towel-lined baking dish or roasting pan. (Dish towel prevents cups from sliding when moving the roasting pan.)
2. In a large bowl, whisk egg yolks and sugar until light; whisk in flour. Gradually whisk in lemon juice, then milk and zest.
3. With an electric mixer, beat egg whites and salt until soft peaks form. Add to lemon batter and fold in gently with a whisk (batter will be quite liquid).
4. Divide batter among prepared custard cups; place baking dish in oven and fill with boiling water to reach halfway up sides of cups. Bake until puffed and lightly browned (but pudding is still visible in bottom), 20 to 25 minutes. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature, dusted with confectioners’ sugar.

Serves 4-6.

--Sous-Chef on the Run

Easter Eats: Smith Island 10-Layer Cake

The Smith Island Cake, a Maryland tradition, is poised to become the state's official dessert. True, this isn't a standard Easter recipe, but I guarantee that if you show up for Easter festivities with a chocolate-drenched 10-layer cake, you won't be turned away. You could try bringing bibbibabka, the official dessert of Mypos, but someone might get hurt. This recipe is courtesy of NPR.org.

Smith Island 10-Layer Cake

Ingredients (Frosting):
2 sticks butter
2 12-oz. cans evaporated milk
8 heaping tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
2 lbs. confectioners sugar

Directions (Frosting):
1. Melt butter. Stir in evaporated milk (off heat).
2. Whisk in cocoa until smooth, return to heat and cook for approximately 10 minutes. DO NOT BOIL or scorch.
3. Remove from heat and whisk in confectioners sugar slowly.
4. Cook slowly until thickened and will stick to back of a spoon or to the whisk. (It will form a ribbon when you drizzle a spoonful onto mixture while cooking.)

Approx time: 45 minutes.

Ingredients (Cake):
2 cups sugar
2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into chunks
5 eggs
3 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 heaping teaspoon baking powder
1 cup evaporated milk
2 teaspoons vanilla
1/2 cup water

Directions (Cake):
1. Cream together sugar and butter.
2. Add eggs one at a time and beat until smooth.
3. Sift together flour, salt and baking powder. Mix into egg mixture one cup at a time.
4. With mixer running, slowly pour in the evaporated milk, then the vanilla and water. Mix just until uniform.
5. Put three serving spoonfuls of batter in each of 10 9-inch lightly greased pans, using the back of the spoon to spread evenly.
6. Bake three layers at a time on the middle rack of the oven at 350 degrees for 8 minutes. A layer is done when you hold it near your ear and you don't hear it sizzle.
7. Start making the icing when the first layer goes in the oven. Let the layers cool a couple of minutes in the pans.
8. Put the cake together as the layers are finished.
9. Run a spatula around the edge oft the pan and ease the layer out of the pan. Don't worry if it tears; no one will notice when the cake is finished.
10. Use two or three serving spoonfuls of icing between each layer. Cover the top and sides of the cake with the rest of the icing. Push icing that runs onto the plate back onto the cake.

To Ice the Cake:
Take one slightly cooled layer and spread with cooled frosting. Add crushed candy randomly on layer. (Reese's cups, Snickers, Milky Ways or whatever your favorite is — candy is optional as well.) Add next layers, frosting, candy and repeat process till the 10th layer. Do not add candy to final layer. Finish frosting the cake and sides. You may have to wait to ice the top and sides until the icing cools.

--Spanno

Easter Eats: Green Salad with Orange, Fennel, and Asparagus

This salad, with its bright green asparagus, zesty orange slices, and crunch of fennel, sounds absolutely delightful for a spring dinner. It would be lovely paired with Monsieur Hulot's Garlic and Herb-Crusted Lamb. Try it also with blood oranges, for an extra burst of color. The recipe comes from Epicurious.

Green Salad with Orange, Fennel, and Asparagus

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1-1/2 teaspoons whole-grain mustard
1/8 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest
1 pound thick asparagus, ends trimmed
3 medium oranges
1 small bulb fennel, trimmed, quartered, cored, and very thinly sliced crosswise
3 quarts loosely packed baby salad greens
1/3 cup fresh chives, finely chopped

Directions:
1. In a small bowl, whisk together vinegar, mustard, sugar, salt, and pepper. Gradually whisk in oil, then zest.
2. In a large sauté pan, bring 1 inch water to boil. Add asparagus and simmer until bright green, about 1 minute. Drain in a colander, then rinse under cold running water until cool. Thinly slice on the diagonal and transfer to a large bowl.
3. Cut peel and white pith from oranges. Working over a medium bowl, cut between membranes to release segments. Add segments and any juice from the medium bowl to the large bowl of asparagus; squeeze juice from membranes into dressing and whisk to combine.
4. Add fennel and then salad greens to a large serving bowl. Drizzle with dressing and toss gently. Sprinkle chives on top and serve immediately.

Serves 10.

--KitchenMaus

Tap Project: Support UNICEF During World Water Week

Americans are lucky ducks. We have access to clean tap water every day and often take it for granted. But, during the last two days of World Water Week (March 16-22), you can make a donation to UNICEF and feel a little less guilty about your birthright.

When you order tap water at restaurants in select U.S. cities, Tap Project will donate your dollar to UNICEF for one child to have clean drinking water for 40 days. Last year, Tap Project was a huge success--earning over $300,000 in New York City alone. This year, dine out in your hometown and help children in the developing world get access to cleaner water.

--Sous-Chef on the Run

Al Dente Taste Test: Vitamin Enhanced Water

The "vitamin enhanced water" market began in the late 90's and has only increased in popularity, thanks in part to (now) Coke's Glaceau Vitamin Water. So is this stuff any good? Aside from the occasional Vitamin Water, the Al Dente team had never had anything this market now offers. Consequently, we put seven of these juice-free juggernauts to the test.

The Guidelines
This was a blind test with eight tasters and seven vitamin-enhanced flavored "waters". The water had to be non-carbonated, not diet, and all were similar in flavor (berry). We ranked the water in accordance with the Wine Enthusiast 100-point scale:
<80:  Unacceptable
80 – 83:  Acceptable
83 – 87:  Good
87 – 90:  Very Good
90 – 94:  Excellent
94 – 98:  Superb
98 – 100:  Classic

The Contestants

Brand:  Dasani Plus
Company:  Coca-Cola
Claims to fame:  vitamin enhanced, zero calories, “cleanse and restore”
Notable ingredients: Vitamins E, B3, B5, B6, B12; sucralose
Calories:  none
Taste: "almost gag inducing", "got worse the more you drank", "gross"
Ranking:  81.25

Brand:  Life Water
Company:  Sobe Beverages
Claims to fame:  vitamin enhanced, “herbal content”
Notable ingredients: Taurine, ginseng; Vitamins C, E, B5, B6, B12
Calories:  100
Taste: "tastes like Juicy Juice", "powdery and unpleasant finish"
Ranking:  83.62

Brand:  Vitamin Water Formula 50
Company:  Glaceau
Claims to fame:  vitamin enhanced, endorsed by rapper 50 Cent.
Notable ingredients: Vitamins E, B3, B5, B6, B12, C
Calories:  125 (that’s 'fiddy' per serving)
Taste: "riding a nice middle ground", "mild and somewhat appealing flavor"
Ranking:  85.50

Brand:  Propel Invigorating Water
Company:  Gatorade
Claims to fame:  vitamin enhanced, contains 20 mg caffeine
Notable ingredients: Caffeine; Vitamins B5, B6, B12
Calories:  20
Taste: "very fruity", "a little medicinal", no "weird aftertaste"
Ranking:  87.12

Brand:  Propel Fit Water
Company:  Gatorade
Claims to fame:  “vitamins” (seriously, that’s all it says; not “contains vitamins” or “vitamin enhanced”)
Notable ingredients: Vitamins C, E, B5, B6, B12; sucralose
Calories:  30
Taste: "watery in a good way", "better balance of water and flavor", "I could drink a bottle of this"
Ranking:  87.87

Brand:  Snapple Antioxidant Water
Company:  Snapple
Claims to fame:  vitamins, electrolytes, antioxidants; “The power to defy” (aging, but I’m not sure how they measure something like that)
Notable ingredients: Vitamins A and E; calcium; grape seed extract; real juice; real sugar
Calories:  120
Taste: "horrible--can’t overstate that", "bland"
Ranking:  84.75

Brand:  Powerade Option
Company:  Coca-Cola
Claims to fame:  B vitamins; 80% fewer calories than the leading sports drink (Gatorade, I assume)
Notable ingredients: Vitamins B6 and B12; sucralose
Calories:  40
Taste: "extremely sweet", "way too sweet", "reminded me I need to go to the dentist"
Ranking:  81.50

And the Winner is...
The overall winner was Propel Fit Water, with Propel Invigorating Water coming in a very close second. The graph shows the drinks in order of consumption--which was chosen at random. Due to the parabolic results, I assume our taste buds could only handle so much of this stuff.

--Spanno

Easter Eats: Garlic and Herb-Crusted Lamb

Easter brings to mind chocolate bunnies, hard-boiled eggs, and, oh yes, savory meat dishes. As a self-described "garlic-dish gourmand," it is only fitting that I should christen my first blog post with a luscious lamb entrée shown on MyRecipes that, thrillingly, requires four whole garlic heads! 

Garlic and Herb-Crusted Lamb

Ingredients:
4 whole garlic heads
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh chives
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, coarsely chopped
1 (8-pound) leg of lamb
12 fresh garlic slices
1-1/4 teaspoons salt, divided
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 cups fresh French breadcrumbs (about 4 ounces)
2-1/4 cups low-salt beef broth
1/2 cup Merlot or other dry red wine
2-1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
Fresh thyme sprigs (optional)

Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
2. Remove white papery skin from garlic heads (do not peel or separate the cloves). Cut off top portions of garlic heads. Wrap garlic heads in foil. Bake at 350 degrees F for 1 hour; cool 10 minutes. Squeeze garlic heads to extract pulp. Discard skins. Place garlic pulp, mustard, and oil in a food processor; process until smooth. Stir in chives and thyme leaves.
3. Increase oven temperature to 425 degrees F.
4. Trim fat from lamb. Cut 12 3/4-inch slits in lamb; place a fresh garlic slice in each slit. Sprinkle surface of lamb with 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper; rub with roasted garlic paste mixture. Press breadcrumbs over surface of lamb. Place lamb on a broiler pan. Insert meat thermometer into thickest part of lamb, making sure not to touch bone.
5. Bake at 425 degrees F for 10 minutes. Decrease oven temperature to 325 degrees F. Bake an additional 2 hours and 10 minutes or until thermometer registers 140 degrees F (medium rare) to 155 degrees F (medium). Remove lamb from rack; place on a shallow serving platter. Lightly cover with foil; let stand 15 minutes.
6. Drain fat from bottom of pan (do not scrape pan). Place broiler pan on stovetop over medium-high heat. Add broth, and bring to a boil, scraping to loosen browned bits.
7. Combine red wine and cornstarch, and stir with a whisk. Add to beef broth and return to boiling. Cook 1 minute or until mixture is slightly thick, stirring constantly. Stir in 3/4 teaspoon salt, and serve immediately with lamb. Garnish with thyme sprigs, if desired.

Serves 20.

--Monsieur Hulot

Midweek Happy Hour: Apple Soju Cocktails

Looking for a little something different to add some kick to your Wednesday? Try one of these refreshing apple cocktails. The unique flavor of the soju will have everyone guessing what kind of elixir you've dreamed up. This recipe appeared in the November 2007 issue of Gourmet.

Apple Soju Cocktails

Ingredients:
1 Pink Lady or Granny Smith apple
2 cups soju or sake
5 cups chilled tonic water (40 fluid ounces)
8 lime wedges

Directions:
1. Cut apple into matchsticks with an adjustable-blade slicer fitted with a 1/4-inch julienne blade, discarding core. Put matchsticks in a pitcher and stir in soju. Let macerate, covered and chilled, at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours.
2. Fill 8 (12-ounce) double Old Fashioned glasses with ice. Strain about 1/4 cup soju into each glass, then add some apple pieces to each glass. Top off drinks with tonic and serve with lime wedges.

Makes 8 cocktails.

--KitchenMaus

The Wednesday Wrap: Food News to Go

Big-Boned Bloggers: Kim Severson weighs on the "Fat Pack," the bloggers, food writers, and chefs who are suddenly discovering what too many pork bellies can do to your own belly (and cholesterol). [NY Times]

I'm Sorry, But We're Completely Booked... Through 2009: Talula's Table, a restaurant in the "flyspeck town" of Kennett Square, PA, proves to be the toughest table to book in all of America. [Conde Nast Portfolio via Eater]

How Much Is that Croissant in the Window?: Karen Gaudette takes a local look at the rising costs of wheat and how it's affecting everyone from Costco to neighborhood bakeries. [Seattle Times]

You Don't Know (Jelly) Beans: Twelve brands of jelly beans are put to the taste test. [The Boston Globe]

Cookbook Award Season Is Here: On Monday, the International Association of Culinary Professionals announced the finalists for their 2008 cookbook awards, and the James Beard Foundation does the same this coming Monday night.

Bruni Beat: It's one lone star ("good") for "the oddly compelling little bistro La Sirène." [NY Times]

--BTP

Easter Eats: Poached Egg Brioche

With Easter coming up this weekend, we here at Al Dente are talking recipes, Peeps, and how to eat a chocolate bunny. Check in every day this week and get a new recipe to try this Sunday. This recipe is currently featured on Epicurious and originally comes from entertaining guru Colin Cowie. Epicurious users gave it a 4-fork rating, and it's a simple and delicious centerpiece to your Easter brunch. For tips on poaching eggs, check out this informative video. For foolproof poaching, you might want to pick up a classic egg poacher or one of the new silicone poach pods.

Poached Egg Brioche

Ingredients:
12 large eggs (or 24 small eggs)
12 brioche slices, lightly toasted
12 thin slices Canadian bacon or smoked ham
12 slices tomato (from 2 to 3 tomatoes)
12 thin slices red onion (from 1 medium onion)
3/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese (about 3 ounces)
3/4 cup grated Swiss cheese (about 3 ounces)
Paprika for garnish (optional)

Directions:
1. Preheat broiler. Line a 13-by-9-inch baking dish with aluminum foil.
2. Over high heat, bring a large pot of water to boil, then reduce heat to medium. Crack 4 eggs, 1 at a time, into simmering water. Poach until whites are set but yolks are still soft, about 3 minutes. Using slotted spoon, carefully transfer to paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Poach remaining eggs, 4 at a time.
3. In baking dish, place 12 brioche slices. Top each with 1 slice Canadian bacon, 1 slice tomato, 1 slice onion, and 1 (or 2 if using small eggs) poached egg. Sprinkle each with 1 tablespoon Cheddar and 1 tablespoon Swiss cheese. Broil until golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes. Sprinkle each egg with paprika and serve immediately. Can be prepared in advance and placed under broiler for 3 to 4 minutes before serving.

Serves 12.

--KitchenMaus

IACP Cookbook Awards: 2008 Finalists Announced

The cookbook award season is officially on the front burner. Earlier this evening the International Association of Culinary Professionals announced the 2008 finalists for their annual cookbook awards. If the James Beard Awards are the "Oscars of the food world," then that would probably make the IACP awards the gourmet Golden Globes.

As in past years, the  "international" aspect of the IACP awards comes into play with the occasional title that isn't that familiar (or easy to locate) in the States (Pier and Turquoise anyone?). While Ten Speed Press had five featured finalists, I was disappointed that one of my favorite books they published in 2007, David Lebovitz's The Perfect Scoop didn't make the cut. The same goes for two of my other favorite titles from last last year, David Pasternack's The Young Man and the Sea and Gina DePalma's Dolce Italiano: Desserts from the Babbo Kitchen.

It's always difficult to predict the winners, but when thinking about Cookbook of the Year, I'd start by seriously considering any title nominated in more than one category. Using this less-than-sure-fire method, here are this year's double-nominees: Asian Flavors of Jean-Georges (Chefs and Restaurants, Food Styling and Photography), Morimoto: The New Art of Japanese Cooking (Chefs and Restaurants, First Book), Sweet Myrtle and Bitter Honey by Efisio Farris and Jim Eber (First Book, International), and Good Spirits: Recipes, Revelations, Refreshments, and Romance, Shaken and Served with a Twist (Food Photography and Styling; Wine, Beer, or Spirits). The prolific Mark Bittman is also nominated twice, but for two different books: Mark Bittman's Quick & Easy Recipes from the New York Times and How to Cook Everything Vegetarian: Simple Meatless Recipes for Great Food.

Full disclosure: We are over-the-moon thrilled for Amazon's very own A.J. Rathbun, all-around raconteur and author of the IACP double-nominee, Good Spirits. Congratulations, A.J.! This year's winners will be announced on Friday, April 18 at an awards ceremony in New Orleans, LA.

--BTP

2008 Finalists

American:
Crescent City Cooking: Unforgettable Recipes from Susan Spicer's New Orleans by Susan Spicer and Paula Disbrowe
A Love Affair with Southern Cooking by Jean Anderson
The Pastry Queen Christmas: Big-hearted Holiday Entertaining, Texas Style by Rebecca Rather and Alison Oresman

Bread, Other Baking, and   Sweets:
Local Breads: Sourdough and Whole-Grain Recipes from Europe's Best Artisan Bakers by Daniel Leader and Lauren Chattman
Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor by Peter Reinhart
Pure Dessert by Alice Medrich

Chefs and Restaurants:
Asian Flavors of Jean-Georges by Jean-Georges Vongerichten
Morimoto: The New Art of Japanese Cooking by Masaharu Morimoto
Pier by Greg Doyle, Grant King, and Katrina Kanetani

Compilations:
Baking Boot Camp: Five Days of Basic Training at the Culinary Institute of America by The Culinary Institute of America and Darra Goldstein
Chocolates and Confections: Formula, Theory, and Techniques for the Artisan Confectioner by The Culinary Institute of America and Peter P. Greweling
Mark Bittman's Quick & Easy Recipes from the New York Times by Mark Bittman

First Book (The Julia Child Award):
Elizabeth Falkner's Demolition Desserts: Recipes from Citizen Cake by Elizabeth Falkner
Morimoto: The New Art of Japanese Cooking by Masaharu Morimoto
Sweet Myrtle and Bitter Honey by Efisio Farris and Jim Eber

Food Photography and Styling:
Asian Flavors of Jean-Georges by Jean-Georges Vongerichten
Good Spirits: Recipes, Revelations, Refreshments, and Romance, Shaken and Served with a Twist by A.J. Rathbun
Rosa's New Mexican Table by Roberto Santibanez

Food Reference/Technical:
Discover Chocolate: The Ultimate Guide to Buying, Tasting, and Enjoying Fine Chocolates by Clay Gordon

Food: The History of Taste by Paul Freedman
Geography of Oysters: The Connoisseur's Guide to Oyster Eating in North America by Rowan Jacobsen    

General:
Chez Jacques: Traditions and Rituals of a Cook by Jacques Pepin
Cook with Jamie: My Guide to Making You A Better Cook by Jamie Oliver
Cooking by James Peterson

Health and Special Diets:
Allergy-Free Cookbook by Alice Sherwood
Cleveland Clinic Healthy Heart Lifestyle Guide & Cookbook by Bonnie Sanders Polin and Frances Towner Giedt
How to Cook Everything Vegetarian: Simple Meatless Recipes for Great Food by Mark Bittman

International:
Sweet Myrtle and Bitter Honey by Efisio Farris and Jim Eber
The Country Cooking of France by Anne Willan
Turquoise by Greg and Lucy Malouf

Literary Food Writing:
Beans: A History by Ken Albala
Julia Child by Laura Shapiro
The Sushi Economy: Globalization and the Making of a Modern Delicacy by Sasha Issenberg

Single Subject:
Fish Forever: The Definitive Guide to Understanding, Selecting, and Preparing Healthy, Delicious, and Environmentally Sustainable Seafood by Paul Johnson
The Story of Tea: A Cultural History and Drinking Guide by Mary Lou Heiss and Robert J. Heiss
Vegetables: Recipes and Techniques from the World's Premier Culinary College by The Culinary Institute of America

Wine, Beer, or Spirits:
Good Spirits: Recipes, Revelations, Refreshments, and Romance, Shaken and Served with a Twist by A.J. Rathbun
IMBIBE! From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash, A Salute in Stories and Drinks to "Professor" Jerry Thomas, Pioneer of the American Bar by David Wondrich
The World Atlas of Wine by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson