I Love Barbeque
I love barbecue! And I love all the opinions that barbecue stirs up. I never imagined that my Monster Potato post would elicit so many comments.
First, a little barbecue background. I grew up in North Carolina so the mighty pig (specifically a vinegar-doused pulled pork sandwich topped with vinegary green slaw) is my emotional touch point. If someone dares to serve me a “North Carolina” barbecue sandwich made with purple cabbage and mayo on a sesame-seed bun, I’m apoplectic!
That said, when barbecue became my life’s pursuit, I traveled all over and became an equal opportunity barbecuer. I truly believe that all the authentic styles/regions should be critiqued in their own region—99.9% of the time, people prefer and fight for the barbecue they grew up on. If I had to choose between a pulled pork sandwich from Wayne Monk’s restaurant in Lexington, NC, or anything else, I’d choose Monk’s sandwich! Once you embrace all the barbecue styles and cultures, your life only gets richer (and maybe your waist gets a little thicker!).
It’s "old hat" to some, but topping a baked potato with chopped smoked meat and barbecue sauce was news to me—and I see from the comments that there are fans from all over. As far as being “real” barbecue…the potato is topped with real barbecued meat, smoked over post oak low and slow. And, obviously, top your potato with as much or as little as you like—my recipe is only a point of departure!
For the past four years, I have been involved with a barbecue restaurant share group that includes the top restaurants/joints/dives in the country. Believe it or not, there are all kinds of other non-traditional dishes on most barbecue menus that utilize the smoked meat. Some of the most popular are Barbecue Pie, Barbecue Pizza, Barbecue Nachos, Barbecue Chili, etc. Guess why? These pitmasters and restaurant owners are trying to make a buck and an item that can get people talking (like the potato) brings cash and folks into the restaurant. I expect that you will find a Monster Potato on my menu at Hill Country sometime soon!
Restaurateurs don’t necessarily want you to eat the whole thing; they are giving us what we’ve asked for. Americans don’t like restaurants that serve small portions. Whether they eat it all or should eat it all is another matter; consumers vote with their dollars and like it or not, American consumers love and buy big portions. As far as cooking the potato, I agree wholeheartedly! My mother taught me to prep a “baked potato” by rubbing it with a little Crisco and pricking it a few times with a fork. I’ve never done it any other way for russet and/or sweet potatoes. I’d never use foil myself, but most restaurants do it for sanitary reasons.
No matter how you cook it, how you see it, or how you feel about it, the plain truth is that it is good eatin’! Be sure to come back next week when I give a little face time to a North Carolina-Style Pulled Pork Sandwich! In the meantime, tell me about your best barbecue experience in the comments!
CB on March 04, 2008 at 07:43 AM
Elizabeth, There's a little Texas-style bbq cafe near my home in Seattle that features a smoked 'tater' with a choice of pulled pork, brisket or chicken. A very friendly married couple run this place and the smokey slow-q'd meat is usually tender and tasty. It reminds me of barbecue in the Hill Country of Texas. A nearby tavern also serves up a 'smoked potato' with choice of smoked meat or chili on the side...inevitably ending up in the potato when I have it.
As for me - I'll take a slow cooked sweet potato that's been in my Silver Smoker all day whilst preparing brisket or Boston Butt with some apricot glaze - picking up the flavors of a mix of cherry, apple, hickory and a touch of mesquite. Happy Grilling! - CB
Dshoe on March 04, 2008 at 11:20 AM
Elizabeth- I'm from NC too. Can't beat Parker's in Greenville. I worked there while attending ECU.
dan stevens on March 05, 2008 at 09:21 AM
I have just one word for ya, Bar Harbor-Que
Mike Drips on March 05, 2008 at 09:58 AM
I grew up in Kansas City, barbeque capital of the universe. It is truly sad to see so many people think and believe that they have eaten barbeque, when the truth is that if one has not eaten BBQ in Kansas City, then you're just kidding yourself if you think you have eaten BBQ. The only two BBQ restaurants in the greater Kansas City area that are true pure BBQ, are Gate and Bryant's. The latter is where President Truman went for BBQ. The other BBQ restaurants such as KC Masterpiece are adequate but more in line with standard dreadful restaurant BBQ that one can find anywhere. Granted, NC and TN have some claim to almost serving BBQ, but they don't reach the high standard of KC BBQ. Texans in their usual way, think that they too should be mentioned as a BBQ mecca while in fact, their BBQ is no better than what one would find in a Denny's restaurant in North Dakota.
PeteDrum on March 05, 2008 at 12:21 PM
We visit Kansas City several times a year, and enjoy Gates. We're hoping someone out there will discover pulled pork one of these years.
Mike in FTW on March 05, 2008 at 12:29 PM
I see Mike Drips took your suggestion to embrace all bbq styles to heart. I know when I think bbq, I think of Truman first.
I grew up with the mighty brisket slow cooked over mesquite served with a sweet sauce, accompanied with jalepeno pinto beans, and unsweetened tea - so my first experience with vinegary sauced pork, greasy fries and sweet tea was a shock, but I loved it.
jblog on March 05, 2008 at 12:32 PM
Ah, North Carolina barbecue. When I lived near Raleigh, I went native, throwing annual pig roasts with my neighbors Ed (a true North Carolinian) and Joe (a Boston ex-pat).
We did it old school -- slow-cooked over charcoal for 24 hours -- built the pit with cinderblocks and hardware cloth -- four or five coals under each shoulder, refreshed ever 45 minutes, cover the whole thing with a cloth tarp.
By the time we were done, the pork would be falling off the bone -- just chop and add vinegar-based barbecue sauce to taste.
I can still almost taste it.
For the best restaurant pulled pork in the area, nothing beats Bullock's over in Durham.
jblog on March 05, 2008 at 12:33 PM
Ah, North Carolina barbecue. When I lived near Raleigh, I went native, throwing annual pig roasts with my neighbors Ed (a true North Carolinian) and Joe (a Boston ex-pat).
We did it old school -- slow-cooked over charcoal for 24 hours -- built the pit with cinderblocks and hardware cloth -- four or five coals under each shoulder, refreshed ever 45 minutes, cover the whole thing with a cloth tarp.
By the time we were done, the pork would be falling off the bone -- just chop and add vinegar-based barbecue sauce to taste.
I can still almost taste it.
For the best restaurant pulled pork in the area, nothing beats Bullock's over in Durham.
susannac on March 05, 2008 at 12:34 PM
I adore barbeque, and am quick to try it out wherever I can. I've found, like you, that barbeques differ greatly. When I lived in NJ, I never found one I liked. Can Yankees do good BBQ? I'm not sure. I lived in Owensboro, KY, the home of Moonlite BBQ, and that was pretty good. My sis in law hails from the Memphis area, and she's shown me some good places. I live in B'ham, AL, now, and so far I'm disappointed. Several good places, not found any great places yet. To me, a great BBQ requires pulled pork with no gristle or piles of fat, a sweet tomato-based sauce with just a whang of vinegar (NOT so vinegary you think it's gotten confused with fish 'n chips) and a smokey flavor, and Texas toast on the side. Slaw is optional, although good. Although, I admit, I had a mighty-fine apricot-nectar based BBQ sauce once in Kentucky, around Land Between Lakes. My brother and family are moving to KC, MO, so I'm looking forward to learning whether those brags are hot tips or hot air.
I have to add that the baked beans make or break a BBQ restaurant. I've only found a few that meet my criteria - BBQ flavored beans with shredded meat in it, hot and sweet. I love loaded potatoes too, but I'd rather the BBQ be on the side.
GFBook on March 05, 2008 at 12:40 PM
As a Texan now located in KC I would suggest Oklahoma Joe's as the best BBQ in the KC area - great ribs (both beef and pork) and a wonderful Hog Heaven sandwich (pulled pork and pork sausage)that can be ordered Carolina Style - vinegar/spicy slaw on top.
They also have seasoned fries that are unbeatable!
Rob Steele on March 05, 2008 at 12:47 PM
One of the things that makes living in Massachusetts bearable for this tarheel is the wonderful array of BBQ joints up here. Blue Ribbon BBQ in West Newton is my current favorite.
Regarding putting bbq on odd things, have you ever tried a pulled pork omelet? I thought the idea was gross when I first heard it, like putting ketchup on scrambled eggs. But it's great! Try it with a mild tomato based sauce on top. Mmmmm agghhhhh slurp...
jb on March 05, 2008 at 12:57 PM
So right about pulled pork. My family loves the Carolina Pulled Pork Sandwiches from Bon Appetit mag - just perfect. www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/101803
John Richardson on March 05, 2008 at 01:03 PM
"If I had to choose between a pulled pork sandwich from Wayne Monk’s restaurant in Lexington, NC, or anything else, I’d choose Monk’s sandwich!"
Pulled? Did you say pulled? Please! It is chopped as is all Lexington-style BBQ. We leave pulled to those ne'r do well BBQ's in other southern states.
And with all due respect to Parker's, Wilber's, and Bullock's who all serve a very good BBQ, they can't touch Lexington-style and my favorite Lexington BBQ is Stamey's in Greensboro.
on March 05, 2008 at 01:30 PM
susannac,
I'm sure there are some decent soul food restaurants in New York but I've never found decent bbq in New Jersey. The good news is the lack of bbq in New Jersey spurred me to learn bbq my own ribs. My baby back ribs may not be up to KC standards but they do fall off the bone and are mighty tasty! Mmmmmm, Mmmmmm. Spring is coming and I'm getting hungry.
Citizen Grim on March 05, 2008 at 01:30 PM
For Christmas a few years back, I was given a "Barbecue Bible" that covered not only the various U.S. regional incarnations of barbecue, but a huge quantity of international grilling/smoking/etc traditions, and backed it up with hundreds of recipes.
You could almost call it life-changing. For someone who grew up in New Jersey, discovering real barbecue was definitely a culinary renaissance.
dick on March 05, 2008 at 01:36 PM
When you talk about how Americans like to buy big portions, that is true. It is also equally true that if the restaurants don't give you big enough portions you will stay away in droves. I am reminded of when I worked in Mid-town Manhattan that my boss took our group to lunch at a well-known at the time restaurant as a treat. The portions were so small that even after eating 3 courses we all stopped at a hot dog stand and had hot dogs because we were still hungry. The restaurant is no longer in business and didn't last long in the first place. The food was great but you were still hungry even after you had the full meal including dessert. Never went back.
George Smith on March 05, 2008 at 01:45 PM
Here's another Kansas City resident laughing at the idea that shredded pork on a plate is BBQ. I lived in North Carolina for 3 years, and it was agonizing. Went to a meat market for beef ribs; they were incredulous that I was going to BBQ them. I felt pity. Been to Memphis, too; sad. For my money, its Bryant's, Jack Stack and Oklahoma Joe's.
RoBear on March 05, 2008 at 01:49 PM
I'm from Goldsboro where I was weened on Scott's sliced barbeque. I'm living in Charlotte now and consume my fare share of Moore's red sauced pork, but still prefer Eastern vinegar-based sauce. Years ago in the Hill Country of Texas I discovered a hole-in-the-wall restaurant that specialized in pork barbeque. Their motto was "We serve everything from the rooter to the tooter!" Nuff said.
dbs on March 05, 2008 at 02:27 PM
Just west of Madision, AL is Greenbriar, AL and Greenbriar BBQ. Awesome pulled pork and worth a drive from B'Ham. Go to the original across from the cotton gin, not the newer one on Hwy 20. Hushpuppies and white sauce, vinegar/tomato base bbq sauce for the pork.
Dreamland in Tuscaloosa had great ribs.
The original Calhoun's in Knoxville, TN - great ribs and overall BBQ.
Sleeper on March 05, 2008 at 03:17 PM
Mike Drips - a little commentary. I'll grant you KC has great steaks and probably great regional barbque. But to malign Texas barbque as whole simply displays your lack of knowledge. Having just attended the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Barbque cook-off (only four categories - beef brisket, chicken, sausage, ribs - sorry no pulled pork here in Texas) I can tell you that they do it RIGHT in Texas. Try Cooper's in Llano.
Duke DeLand on March 05, 2008 at 04:03 PM
O.K.......Here goes my recipe.....just try it as an option. It is my own, and I owned a restaurant (Legend's Bar-B-Que) in Naples, Florida late in the 70s.....
You are gonna like it!
Baby back ribs.....
MoJo Sauce (preferably MoJo Carillo) from the Spanish section of your local store.
That is it......NOW, the cookin......
Place the ribs in an aluminum pan and pour the MoJo over them. Cover with foil, and place in a 325-350 oven. Every 45 minutes, pull them out, rotate them so the uncooked parts are exposed, and baste them in the MoJo.
When a table fork passes into them easily, they are done. (Time depends upon the amount of ribs....I cook 10 pounds per pan).
Then cool them and place the pan in the fridge til they are needed....up to a week later.
Place them on the grill after cutting them into strips of 4-5 ribs depending upon size of the meat, and baste them with BBQ sauce for five-ten minutes as you rotate them. SERVE!
My BBQ sauce "secret"....1/2 Kraft Regular BBQ sauce, and 1/2 Bullseye Dark Sauyce, mixed.
Simple recipe, meat can be pulled off the bones with ease. YUM!!!!!
Duke
Duke DeLand on March 05, 2008 at 04:04 PM
O.K.......Here goes my recipe.....just try it as an option. It is my own, and I owned a restaurant (Legend's Bar-B-Que) in Naples, Florida late in the 70s.....
You are gonna like it!
Baby back ribs.....
MoJo Sauce (preferably MoJo Carillo) from the Spanish section of your local store.
That is it......NOW, the cookin......
Place the ribs in an aluminum pan and pour the MoJo over them. Cover with foil, and place in a 325-350 oven. Every 45 minutes, pull them out, rotate them so the uncooked parts are exposed, and baste them in the MoJo.
When a table fork passes into them easily, they are done. (Time depends upon the amount of ribs....I cook 10 pounds per pan).
Then cool them and place the pan in the fridge til they are needed....up to a week later.
Place them on the grill after cutting them into strips of 4-5 ribs depending upon size of the meat, and baste them with BBQ sauce for five-ten minutes as you rotate them. SERVE!
My BBQ sauce "secret"....1/2 Kraft Regular BBQ sauce, and 1/2 Bullseye Dark Sauyce, mixed.
Simple recipe, meat can be pulled off the bones with ease. YUM!!!!!
Duke
Pat on March 05, 2008 at 04:19 PM
Listen, I currently live in Raleigh, NC. Before that I lived in Kansas City for 22 years. I can say, without a doubt that Kansas City BBQ is far and away the better of the two styles. To me, there is absolutely no comparison. North Carolina style is disgusting. The pulled pork is a sad affair. It took me all of a week to discover that. You want proof? After I moved to North Carolina, I had hunger pains for the KC stuff. And I was so deperate for good BBQ that I mail-ordered some brisket and sauce from Jack-Stack in Kansas City.
Make no mistake: Kansas City BBQ is the real deal. All others are mere imitations.
Dave Eaton on March 05, 2008 at 06:00 PM
I grew up in Owensboro, KY, the self-styled BBQ center of the universe. I still like Western KY style BBQ the best, but I have learned to love most all of it that I have experienced. (Does the barbeque eel at the Japanese restaurant count?)
There's no disputing taste. It's like arguing over who has the prettier girlfriend- there's what we think, what we have to say to stay alive, and what we say to put down the other guy. And, to me, all of it is tasty. As to which is better, I have my preference, but that's because I imprinted on it as soon as I hatched. If somebody has a cooler of beer and a slow cooked, tangy smoked critter of some sort, it's a party...
Robbie on March 05, 2008 at 07:45 PM
Here in Texas bar-b-que is nothing more than the triumvirate of meats: ribs (pork), brisket, and hot links.
I always laugh when I hear NC and KC folks claim how great their bbq'd meats are, and then they drown them in sauces.
If the meat is any good at all and cooked properly (cowboy style, with hot coals directly under the meat; the dripping juices sizzling like mad).
Many of the best q joints don't serve bbq sauce of any kind --- the meat has nothing to hide. Some of the best don't even serve sides, except for onion, pickles, and wedges of cheese --- all served on pink butcher paper, sans utensils (they're on the end of your arms).
The best q joints in Texas are found in the hills of central Texas, where German immigrants established meat markets, where they brought with them old world smoking and butchering styles.
In Lockhart, Texas (the true Mecca of BBQ), several of these q joints have been open for more than 100 years.
Here’s what a food reviewer for DallasFood.org had to say about the greatest q joint in Texas (and thus, the entire world):
"For those who have never been to Lockhart, here’s a rough translation: what you see spread on butcher paper above is the very telos of beef, the result of an alchemical transformation of smoke and cow into purest protein gold, a revelatory encounter that would turn (like Paul on the road to Damascus) your hairy-legged vegan girlfriend into a full-fledged, card-carrying carnivore."
So, you kids keep hiding the inadequacies of your meat smoking techniques with overpowering sauces --- but until you've been to Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-b-que in Llano, or Luling City Market (in Luling), or Smitty's Market in Lockhart, or Southside Market in Elgin...well, you'll just have to be content to have only tried second-rate bbq.
You can see my pictorial reviews of some of my favorite Texas bbq joints here:
http://urbangrounds.com/category/food/bbq/